SCENTED SUNDAY: Gourmand — Is Niche Losing its Flavor?

Gourmand fragrances once thrilled us, merging sweetness and indulgence into creations that evoked pure pleasure. But today, the gourmand trend seems to have lost its way. Instead of nuanced beauty, we’re drowning in candy-store clichés. Has niche perfumery—the vanguard of creativity—lost its taste?

Scented Roots: My Childhood of Fragrance

I grew up immersed in the countryside, where scent wasn’t just an experience—it was a way of understanding the world. The smell of damp bark, forest floors, and freshly turned soil was my playground. Fields bursting with potatoes, corn, and barley had their own aromatic stories, mingling with the inescapable tang of manure from nearby farms.

We children played in this fragrant chaos, finding ways to balance the intense odors. We’d press flowers into our noses—honeysuckle, wild blooms, anything to mask the barnyard smell. We chewed sorrel to cleanse bad tastes and rubbed linden blossom dust into our skin to “perfume” ourselves. These weren’t acts of vanity but instinctual rituals of discovery.

These vivid memories now play a huge part in shaping the perfumes we create, telling warm and emotional stories. Perfumery became my way to pay tribute to those days of innocent experimentation—an interplay of nature’s primal intensity and the fleeting sweetness of blossoms.

Perfume Trends: Through Centuries

Flowers are the heart of perfumery, but their role has shifted dramatically over time. In the Middle Ages, they served a practical purpose—masking the odors of a world that feared water. By the time of Louis XIV, perfume had transformed into a luxury, an indulgence that added elegance and sensuality to the gloriousness of life at court.

The 18th century brought the influence of France’s colonial expansion. Exotic ingredients—vanilla, patchouli, cinnamon—began to arrive in Europe, laying the groundwork for gourmand. But this wasn’t the subtle, intriguing gourmand we appreciate today. It was brash, unapologetic excess. Fragrances were built with dominant force—an overwhelming intensity designed to impress rather than seduce.

The early 20th century ushered in true innovation. Chanel No. 5 revolutionized the industry with aldehydes, offering an abstract elegance, while Miss Dior redefined chypres with modern sophistication.

Then came the 1980s, a decade of powerful, opulent compositions. These perfumes—Dior’s Poison, YSL’s Opium, Calvin Klein’s Obsession—were anything but subtle. They were statements: loud, complex, and unapologetically bold. This era also celebrated oriental and spicy notes, with warm, exotic ingredients like amber, vanilla, and patchouli taking center stage. Iconic fragrances like Chanel’s Coco and Guerlain’s Shalimar showcased incredible sillage and longevity, their scents designed to fill a room and leave a lasting impression.

By the 1990s, the pendulum swung back. Fragrances became minimalist, reflecting a cultural shift toward subtlety and natural beauty. L’Eau d’Issey and CK One embraced transparency, their airy compositions wrapping the skin like whispers rather than shouts. At the same time, niche perfumery began its quiet rebellion, experimenting with bold ideas and unexpected notes. Serge Lutens’ Féminité du Bois and Comme des Gar?ons challenged conventions, proving that innovation could thrive beyond mainstream trends.

Perfumery, like history itself, moves in waves. Each decade brings its own aesthetic, its own exploration. In 1992, Thierry Mugler’s Angel changed perfumery forever. Sweet, bold, and revolutionary, it introduced the world to the first true gourmand fragrance. The rich chocolate accord, paired with caramel and patchouli, broke all conventions. Angel wasn’t just a perfume—it was a statement. It celebrated indulgence, blending sweetness with strength, and paved the way for an entirely new genre in fragrance. More than three decades later, its influence remains undeniable. Every gourmand created today owes a nod to Mugler’s daring vision.

Where We Are Now: Sweetness Overload

For the last few years, gourmand perfumes seem to be very trendy and it doesn't seem to go away anytime soon. Social media seems flooded with the tops of the best 'edible' perfumes, and honestly, it starts feeling suffocating. Instead of innovation, we’re served an endless stream of sugar-coated monotony: vanilla overdose, cookie dough sweetness, pistachio gelato accords. These scents are closer to desserts than perfumes, offering empty indulgence without depth.

As a creator, I feel torn. I love a well-crafted gourmand—a fragrance that surprises, delights, and balances sweetness with intrigue. But too often, the gourmand of today is a lazy imitation, spreading melted candy across the skin without offering an emotional or olfactory journey.

Yet we have the tools to do better. Technology has given us incredible possibilities: upcycling ingredients, Mane’s Jungle Essence, Givaudan’s BioNootkatone. These breakthroughs allow us to craft complex, nuanced fragrances that were impossible just decades ago.

Recently, I had an insightful discussion with Kristina Kybartait?-Damul? , editor of PlezuroMag . While she agreed that the market is flooded with often uninspired gourmand fragrances, she also pointed out that this trend makes her appreciate even more the nuanced, unexpected gourmand creations. Among the examples, she mentioned Dusita's La Rhapsodie Noire, where a rich coffee note is combined with a fougère accord; Purpureum from Neela Vermeire Créations, which contrasts gourmand nuances with a bold leathery statement; Der Duft's In Flagranti, a fragrance that marries vanilla and caramel with a generous bouquet of white flowers.

"Perfumes with a sweet twist,” she noted, “but not what you call a traditional gourmand.” Her insights resonate with me: the jewels of niche still exist, but they’re buried under tons of predictable sweetness.

Gourmand: Unexpected

People's thoughts on Ultima Storia, the latest perfume in our Extraits Uniques collection, surprised us. It all started when Maurus Bachmann and I set out to create something unique: the most intense and long-lasting citrus fragrance on the market. While traditional citrus scents vanish within two hours, Ultima Storia became a bold redefinition of what citrus can be.

The secret lies in sweetness—but not in the predictable sense. We drew inspiration from citron noir, or black lemon, a delicacy from Iranian cuisine. Lemons are boiled in salt water and dried under the sun, creating an unexpected depth—a smoky, umami-like zest. This became the backbone of the fragrance. To this, we added Pear and Almond, layering richness and intrigue over the bright citrus core.

Originally conceived as a summer scent for 2025, it quickly exceeded expectations. Officially launched in October 2024, by Christmas it was already sold out, proving its appeal year-round. Although we initially had no intention of creating a gourmand fragrance, many people who try Ultima Storia, surprisingly, say they detect gourmand undertones, thanks to the almond and roasted coffee notes. To me, this is the perfect example that a gourmand doesn’t need to smell like a kitchen to be understood and loved.

Now I can say – Ultima Storia is our take on gourmand: sweetness balanced with sophistication, freshness that lingers, and a story of Italian summer that stays.

The Call for Change: Leave the Echo Chamber Behind

In the echo chamber of overly sweet gourmands, I think it's time to break free. Niche perfumery must reject mediocrity and embrace bold creativity. This is not about pandering to market trends—it’s about leading with authenticity and vision.

In the past, fashion designers redefined aesthetics, pushing boundaries. Today, that responsibility lies with niche perfumers. We must craft scents that tell stories, evoke memories, and inspire emotion—not just sell products.

Gourmand still has a place in the future, but it must evolve. It should be intricate, woven with complexity and elegance, not cloying simplicity. Perfumery is an art form, a reflection of individuality. Let us honor that legacy by creating fragrances that not only please but linger in the soul.

Let’s dare to innovate. Let’s move beyond bold sweetness and rediscover the complexity that defines niche perfumery.