The Sartorial Gentleman

Permanent Fashion

In our last post, we explored how America rose to the forefront of men's fashion during the interwar years. Now, let’s take a deeper look into the evolution of men's style—from the clear-cut boundaries of the 1930s to the bold self-expression of the 1960s, and what permanent fashion truly means today.

The 1930s: Clear Boundaries and Sartorial Certainty

During the 1930s, personal taste and expression had distinct boundaries. It was clear what was appropriate to wear for each occasion. Once an outfit was categorized as correct, there was no need to question it. Authentic fashion wasn’t about risk-taking—it was about wearing what was already considered socially acceptable.

For decades, there was little change in men’s fashion. Up until the late 1950s, men generally knew what to wear without much deliberation. In the United States, Brooks Brothers and Savile Row defined good taste, reflecting New England traditions and the etiquette of Boston’s elite.

The 1960s: A Rebellion Against Tradition

By the late 1960s, however, the tides began to turn. The rebellious youth of the middle class started pushing aside the tastes of the upper class in favor of new freedoms in fashion, coming from the streets. Yves St. Laurent famously declared, “Down with the Ritz, up with the street,” marking the shift from aristocratic elegance to a more democratic approach to style.

With the breaking of old rules, the idea of universal fashion standards fell apart. What was once "good taste" was now subjective, and as novelist Tom Wolfe pointed out, one man’s classic style could be another man’s “pizza tie.”

The Paradox of Timeless Fashion

At first glance, pairing timelessness with fashion seems contradictory, especially when modern fashion celebrates constant change and experimentation.

But this contradiction is intentional—it provokes thought. Timelessness fashion highlights a paradox: despite decades of growth and freedom in menswear, fewer men are truly well-dressed today. Modern fashion has become fleeting, lacking permanence.

Timeless fashion represents something deeper: the goal of guiding men toward long-term sartorial success. For those seeking fulfillment in their style journey, embracing timeless fashion gets them there faster.

Achieving sartorial excellence involves building a wardrobe that lasts—timeless pieces that remain relevant and reflect personal identity. For clothing to stand the test of time, it must have intrinsic value, utility, and good taste. Developing your personal style is an ongoing process, but knowing which colors, cuts, and proportions suit you best will lead to long-term success.

Some might think that rules for good taste restrict self-expression, but the reality is quite the opposite. These rules form the foundation for true individuality. Real innovation in style comes from understanding the rules—not ignoring them.

The best-dressed men know what works for their body type, and this self-awareness translates into effortless style. Their understanding of proportions, fabrics, and colors becomes second nature—like math to a mathematician.

We can draw inspiration from the great dressers of the past, but they should be seen as a starting point, not the end goal. They mastered the basics, which gave them the freedom to shape their personal expression of style. These icons didn’t just follow rules—they bent them to create something poetic.

At Esthés, we believe that men have a natural talent for personal style—more than they’re often given credit for. When men receive firsthand advice, they learn quickly. In the privacy of our fitting rooms, we see that every man has the desire to look and feel his best.

We bare convinced that men today are not only ready but eager to expand their ability to express themselves through clothing. Whether through bespoke tailoring or sartorial mentorship, we guide our clients toward achieving their personal best in style.

What are your thoughts on the evolution of men’s fashion? Feel free to share your comments or ask questions below! Let’s continue the conversation about men’s fashion, bespoke tailoring, and the power of personal style.

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