Sai?as Winery, Ribeira Sacra
Emilio Devesa
Founder of VinNatura | Specialized in Sustainable Wines | CMS Certified Sommelier
If you are looking for a winery that combines tradition, sustainability and wines of exceptional quality , Adega Saí?as is a must-see in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra.
At the beginning of June, on a trip that took us from El Bierzo, where we visited José Antonio García, we had the pleasure of visiting this winery . After resting in the historic Palacio de Sober, a wonderful hotel that I recommend you visit, we headed early in the morning to Espasantes, Pantón, where Jorge and Saleta were waiting for us to show us the winery and its vineyards.
A Tour of the Adega Saí?as Vineyards
The visit began in Penacabada , Adega Saí?as' highest vineyard, located next to the Cabe River. The grapes used to make Secreto 2021 are grown here, a wine that stands out for its freshness and complexity . The vinification of Secreto reflects an approach, with manual harvesting and fermentation in open tanks, using 80% whole grapes, and is trodden by foot, gradually breaking up the bunches.
The wine matures in used French oak barrels for 9 months and a minimum of one year in the bottle, which gives it elegance without losing its fruity character. Secreto 2021 has a vibrant red color with purple reflections . On the nose, it is complex and sophisticated, displaying aromas of red fruits, spices, floral notes and an earthy touch that evokes the landscape of the Ribeira Sacra. On the palate, it is structured, with fine and well-integrated tannins, a balanced acidity that maintains its freshness, and a long and spicy finish . The aging in wood provides subtle notes of vanilla and toast, without overshadowing the mineral and fruity flavours that define its personality.
Our next stop was at the Igrexa vineyard , where the grapes for the Secular 2021 are born, a red that has been awarded 18 points by Jancis Robinson . This wine, made from Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera, offers an authentic expression of the Ribeira Sacra. Secular 2021 is distinguished by its deep red color and its bouquet of red fruits, spices and subtle mineral notes. On the palate, it is a structured and balanced wine, with firm but elegant tannins and a long, persistent finish. The combination of its aromatic profile and its structure make it an ideal choice to accompany red meats or game dishes.
Finally, we visit the vineyards near the winery house, where the grapes for the Silente 2021 are grown, a wine known for its excellent value for money. Rated 17.5 by Jancis Robinson , Silente 2021 stands out for its vibrant ruby red color. On the nose, it displays a mix of aromas of fresh red fruits, wild spices and delicate notes of graphite. On the palate, it is a medium-bodied wine with well-integrated tannins , offering notable freshness and a long, spicy finish. The balanced acidity and soft tannins make Silente 2021 a versatile choice to accompany a variety of dishes, from tapas to roast meats. At a price of €15.75 in Spain, it is a bargain that will not disappoint lovers of good wine.
A Legacy That Continues
The story of Adega Saí?as begins in 1992 , when Javier Fernández González decided to bottle his own wine, at a time when it was common to sell it in bulk. Since its inception, the winery has combined traditional methods with modern technology to create authentic, high-quality wines. The DO Ribeira Sacra did not even exist at the time, making Javier's decision to embark on this path all the more remarkable. In 2020, following Javier's passing, his daughter Saleta Fernández and her partner, Jorge Suárez, took over the reins of the winery with the aim of continuing the family legacy and taking it to new heights.
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Although they are both industrial engineers, their passion for wine led them to train as sommeliers at the Instituto Galego do Vi?o (INGAVI) , where we met on the course. They complemented their learning with the advice of the renowned Portuguese winemaker Luís Seabra. Since the first harvest under their management in 2021, they have demonstrated a commitment to sustainability and quality , adopting environmentally friendly practices that have captured the attention of critics and wine lovers.
One of the fundamental pillars of Adega Saí?as is its focus on organic viticulture . Throughout its five hectares of vineyards, the winery avoids the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides , opting instead for natural methods to care for soil health and biodiversity. They use cover crops such as clover and cereals , which helps to control weeds and improve soil structure. This philosophy is particularly noticeable in the Ribeira Sacra, a region with high humidity and fungal disease pressure, where many would consider avoiding the use of chemicals risky .
For Jorge and Saleta, this sustainable approach is not an option, but a necessity to ensure the quality and authenticity of their wines. Every decision in the cultivation and winemaking process is designed to minimize intervention and allow the wines to express their true character. The result is fresh, balanced wines with a complexity that reflects the essence of the Cabe River Valley.
The Singularity of the Cabe River Valley
Despite being officially in the Ribeiras do Mi?o sub-zone, the vineyards of Adega Saí?as are located in an enclave known as the valley of the Cabe River , a tributary of the Sil. This valley, narrower and colder than other areas of the Ribeira Sacra , presents challenges such as the risk of spring frosts. However, it also brings special characteristics to the wines, which stand out for their freshness and a notable minerality. To highlight the uniqueness of the place, Jorge and Saleta refer to this area as " Ribeiras do Cabe ", an unofficial term but one that has a long history in the family, as Javier has been labelling his wines with this designation since the 1990s.
After concluding our visit with a wine tasting at the winery, it was clear that Adega Saí?as has a bright future . With Jorge and Saleta at the helm, they have respected Javier’s legacy while moving towards new frontiers in the world of wine. Their dedication to sustainability and passion for the Ribeira Sacra terroir is reflected in every bottle, leading them to be named by prestigious British magazine Jancis Robinson as the revelation winery of the Ribeira Sacra in their October article.
It would not be surprising to see Adega Sai?as wines on the menus of the best restaurants. In fact, they are already present in outstanding restaurants such as D'Berto in O Grove and other renowned restaurants in Madrid. If you are looking for a wine that tells a story, that respects tradition and, at the same time, bets on innovation , you cannot miss trying what Adega Sai?as has to offer you.