Rh?ne via New Orleans
Earlier this week I had a trip through France’s Rh?ne valley. This figurative trip was different from the times I’ve literally driven through the Rh?ne; this time there were no stately mountains, no sunflower or lavender fields, and certainly no charming villages peppered with Roman ruins. This trip through the Rh?ne began in Memphis, ended in New Orleans, and included an encounter with seemingly every Mayfly that lives around the bayou bridge that is the entry point to the Big Easy. (My windshield is still a mess despite rigorous washing!). The Rh?ne was brought to New Orleans courtesy of the “Get to Know Rh?ne Academy Tour”, starring Rh?ne expert and Master of Wine, David Keck. Hosted at the iconic Commander's Palace restaurant, the event was the perfect setting for learning more about this stunning wine region in Southeast France.
Some of you may be familiar with a wine from the Appellation, C?te du Rh?ne (CDR), or the tasty Crus from the region. You may fondly remember a delicious Chateauneuf-du-Pape you’ve enjoyed, or a peppery Syrah from Hermitage. The one thing that I knew - and now understand even more clearly - is that what defines wine from the CDR is diversity and complexity. There are 34 varieties of grapes grown across Northern and Southern Rh?ne and 31 appellations. Each wine is unique, whether blended, as most are, or from a single grape variety. This can be confusing to the consumer. You can drink two delicious, but different red blends of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (GSM) from Chateauneuf-du-Pape and have two vastly different experiences. The terroir, blending percentages, and blending partners all play important factors in the flavor of the wine.?
In 2022, 36%, or 118 million bottles, of all CDR wine produced was exported. The United States happily consumed 14% of CDR exports, representing 16.5 million bottles. (Sources: French Customs Authorities, Inter Rh?ne estimates - Still wines and sparkling wines. Chateauneuf du Pape included.) The majority of CDR wine consumed in the US is red, specifically the GSM red blends that are so often associated with this region. No surprise, as these blends pair well with many foods and represent a great quality-to-price value.
After consuming 18 distinct examples of CDR wine as part of the “Get to Know Rh?ne” workshop, there are several unique and surprising AOCs (French wine districts) and wines I would like to share with you.
AOC Rasteau Vin Doux Naturels (VDN). Rasteau, which received AOC status in 1944, is home to naturally sweet wines that are made from 100% Grenache. The VDN is a light wine with medium tannin and body, and with flavors and aromas reminiscent of port, but so much lighter. The spice and red fruit of this wine would make excellent partners for blue cheese or stilton.
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AOC Tavel. Tavel is the only rosé AOC in France, and it’s uniquely delicious. This darkly colored rosé has aromas and flavors of red fruit and citrus, and it’s a great accompaniment to hors d'oeuvres through to dessert. It pairs particularly well with salmon, roast pork, or roast chicken, and can age beautifully. Yes, it ages beautifully, so don’t worry if the date isn’t current!
AOC Cornas. This Syrah only appellation from Northern Rh?ne produces beautiful, expressive wines. The wine we sampled had aromas and flavors of red fruit and a delicious cinnamon spice. As it ages, the flavors will improve and smooth out.
AOC Clairette de Die. CdD is a lightly sweet and sparkling wine made using the ancestral methode with Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Clairette grapes. This sparkling method is risky and difficult to control, and dates back to the Romans. The wine has flavors and aromas of floral, peach, and apricot, and is a refreshing choice for an aperitif.?
AOC Louberon (blanc). 95% of this Southern Rh?ne AOC resides within a natural reserve, meaning that most of the winemaking here is organic and biodynamic. This white blend of Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Roussanne, Viognier, and Clairette grapes has aromas and flavors of acacia flower, stone fruit, with a hint of herbs, and it’s high in acidity.
CDR wines are a pleasure to explore. Finding these unique versions may not be easy, but I can assure you that the journey to do so will be worth the effort. Cheers.