THE RETURN OF JENS LAUGESEN

Interview by Pierre A. M’PELE for DANSK MAGAZINE https://www.danskmagazine.com/attention/the-return-of-jens-laugesen/

Fashion comebacks. We’ve seen plenty of them. We’ve seen the most ludicrous brand revivals; age-old labels bought by companies looking to profit from a brand’s aura by selling makeup, perfumes, or accessories. The fashion industry is keen on a comeback. But, bringing back a label into the game requires a certain dexterity. Jens Laugesen has that, thankfully. The Central Saint Martins graduate took a ten-year break, only to come back with a clearer aesthetic, a stronger creative message, and a commercially viable offering. During this hiatus, Laugesen spent time at Calvin Klein under Francisco Costa and taught fashion design in Paris at the école de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The Danish fashion designer has decided to relaunch his brand, so we visited his studio nested in Haggerston, in busy East London, to take a look at his A/W 2018 collection. A smiling Laugesen welcomes us into his studio and we already know it’s great to have him back.

Where have you been Jens? We’ve missed you.

#“After closing my business in 2008, I did a lot of consultancy and travelled everywhere. I also worked at Calvin Klein and taught on the MA course at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture for six years in Paris.”

So, why would someone enjoying the life of a free electron decide to step back into the game?

“I just thought it was time for me to get creative again. In that 10-year span of doing different things, I’ve had time to learn a lot and reflect on what I might have done wrong the first time around. So, for me it felt like the right moment to do it.”

What did you bring back with you from your hiatus?

“I learned how to do business, instead of just producing creative clothes for my own ego!”

So, this is not an ego trip at all?

“This is not an ego project. It’s an attempt at creating a capsule collection of 40 pieces to address a chic and modern woman. It’s quite focused for me. I usually do double the number of pieces.”

“It is real clothes. The same kind as when I was designing 10 years ago, but they are more refined. They’re also more luxurious and more adapted to today’s customer. The first time I was a bit too avant-garde for the customer of the time.”

Is the customer you had in the past ready for it?

“A lot of the clients who wore my clothes at the time would still love it, and the ones who couldn’t afford it before have now become editors and design directors – like my first assistant Camilla – so they can probably afford it now.”

What are you doing now that you weren’t doing right in 2008?

“Maybe now I think more about the collection itself and see how versatile and adaptable it can be. How a piece can be both for the day and the night. The first time, I was very focused on the conceptual thinking. But, this time it’s more about the vision of the business and taking that forward.”

So, it’s realistic clothes then?

“It is real clothes. The same kind as when I was designing 10 years ago, but they are more refined. They’re also more luxurious and more adapted to today’s customer. The first time I was a bit too avant-garde for the customer of the time.”

Why London by the way? Is this where the Jens Laugesen woman lives?

“I think I chose London because I have a more realistic approach regarding what women are and how they want to look. The London girl is much cooler, and less troubled about appearing super chic. But it is also about that LA girl, very laid-back., you know.”

The collection still is very chic.

“Yes, because the pieces are versatile. You can button up a dress and look very West London or Paris, or button it down and wear it in a more casual way. There’s hardcore tailoring that’s beautifully finished, but there are pieces you can relax in.”

Like the knitwear?

“I designed them in collaboration with SNS Herning, which is a traditional Danish menswear heritage company that’s been around since 1931.”

Why did you feel like collaborating right away?

“It’s a cool way to address other customers, because the luxury collection if for a certain type of woman. Young kids cannot really afford the luxury tailoring, so a jumper from SNS Herning that I have designed can be worn by potentially anyone, a boy or a girl. Also, I come from Herning, in Denmark, so it felt natural for me to work with them.”

 Is gender fluidity something important for you?

“Of course, there’s a certain type of woman I like. But, you know, when I left Saint Martins, I was already doing unisex in the beginning of 2002. It wasn’t called gender fluid or genderless at the time. I had boys and girls from Japan wearing my clothes. So, of course a cocktail dress could be worn by a man today, but I actually trying to embrace the client who wants to wear the collection, and she’s a woman.”

So, what else is new?

“Well, I did checks, and I did a bit of colour. When people asked me ‘Is it still black and white?’ I answered ‘Yes, but there’s a bit of red too!’”

What did you keep from your time studying at Central Saint Martins?

“Everything I was thought by Louise Wilson. But also, the philosophical and theoretical approach, the idea of hybrid-thinking which is the foundation of the design method I developed it while at Saint Martins.”

Jens Laugesen’s A/W 2018 is a chic, elegant, and wearable collection. Sharp tailoring with incredible detailing mixed with superb romantic dresses. All 40 pieces has been well thought out and breathe sincerity. It is the utmost of luxury: there are mink jackets in collaboration with Saga Furs for an opulent look, razor-sharp pant-suits for the boss ladies, and casual quality pieces for every-day life.