Rethinking Raw Materials: Navigating the Future of Textiles with Sustainability and Circularity

The textile and fashion industry stands at a crossroads. As the world’s second-largest polluter, responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions and consuming approximately 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, the industry faces mounting pressure to reform. With raw materials becoming scarcer and environmental regulations tightening, the industry must rethink its approach to sustainability. One clear path forward is making recycled cotton the primary fiber, a move that promises significant environmental and economic benefits.

The Current State of Raw Materials in the Textile Industry

Globally, the textile industry consumes about 100 million tons of fibers annually. Cotton and polyester dominate the landscape, accounting for nearly 85% of this consumption. However, both fibers present significant sustainability challenges:

1. Cotton: While cotton is a natural fiber, its cultivation is resource-intensive. Conventional cotton production requires up to 10,000 liters of water to produce just one kilogram of cotton—enough to make a single pair of jeans. Moreover, cotton farming is responsible for 16% of global pesticide use, which harms soil health and biodiversity.
2. Polyester: Polyester, a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum, represents about 52% of global fiber production. Although it’s cheap and versatile, polyester’s environmental footprint is alarming. The production of polyester emits approximately 1.5 times more carbon dioxide than cotton. Additionally, polyester’s inability to biodegrade leads to microplastic pollution, contributing to the estimated 12 million tons of plastic entering the oceans annually.

The Raw Material Challenge: Growing Demand vs. Sustainable Supply

The textile industry is projected to grow by 60% by 2030, driven by rising consumer demand, particularly in developing markets. This growth exacerbates the existing strain on raw materials, creating a pressing need for sustainable alternatives. The industry’s reliance on finite and resource-intensive materials is unsustainable in the long term.

A significant challenge lies in balancing growth with sustainability. While the industry’s demand for raw materials is increasing, the availability of sustainable sources is limited. For example, organic cotton, which is touted as a more sustainable alternative, accounts for less than 1% of global cotton production due to its high cost and lower yields.

The Impact of Upcoming Environmental and EPR Regulations

Governments and international organizations are increasingly introducing Environmental and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regulations to mitigate the textile industry’s environmental impact. These regulations aim to hold producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, from sourcing raw materials to disposal. Key regulations include:

1. The European Union’s Circular Economy Action Plan: This plan targets textiles as a priority sector, with measures that include mandatory recycled content, restrictions on single-use products, and improved consumer information on product durability.
2. India’s Draft EPR Framework for Textiles: India, one of the world’s largest textile producers, is developing an EPR framework that will mandate the use of recycled materials and set targets for waste reduction and recycling.

These regulations will force companies to rethink their sourcing strategies, pushing them towards more sustainable materials like recycled cotton. Failure to comply with these regulations could result in significant financial penalties and reputational damage.

Preferred Raw Materials: Insights from the Textile Exchange Report

The Textile Exchange’s Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2023 highlights the urgent need to transition to sustainable raw materials. Key findings include:

• Organic Cotton: While more sustainable than conventional cotton, organic cotton still faces challenges related to water usage and scalability. It represents only 0.93% of global cotton production.
• Recycled Cotton: The report identifies recycled cotton as a key material for reducing the industry’s environmental footprint. Recycled cotton uses up to 98% less water and 93% less energy than virgin cotton, making it a far more sustainable option.
• Hemp and Linen: These fibers are praised for their low environmental impact but face challenges in widespread adoption due to limited production and consumer acceptance.

Why Recycled Cotton is the Future

Recycled cotton offers a scalable and sustainable solution to the raw material challenge. Consider the following benefits:

1. Minimal Environmental Footprint: According to a 2023 study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, recycled cotton production results in 40% lower CO2 emissions than virgin cotton. Additionally, using recycled cotton can reduce water consumption by up to 99%, a critical consideration given that the fashion industry currently consumes nearly 4% of the world’s fresh water annually.
2. Endless Recyclability: Recycled cotton can be recycled multiple times, maintaining its quality and usability. This makes it an ideal material for a circular economy, where resources are reused rather than discarded.
3. Rapid Decomposition: Recycled cotton decomposes much faster than synthetic fibers. While polyester can take up to 200 years to decompose, recycled cotton breaks down within a few months, reducing the burden on landfills.
4. Cost Neutrality: Contrary to popular belief, recycled cotton is cost-neutral compared to virgin cotton. A study by WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) found that the cost of producing recycled cotton is on par with that of virgin cotton, making it an economically viable alternative for manufacturers.

Why Recycled PET is Not the Solution

Recycled PET (rPET) has gained popularity as a sustainable alternative to virgin polyester, but it is not a long-term solution. Here’s why:

1. Microplastic Pollution: Even recycled PET sheds microplastics during washing, contributing to the 1.5 million tons of microplastics that enter the oceans each year.
2. Finite Recycling: Unlike recycled cotton, which can be recycled multiple times, PET can only be recycled a limited number of times before it degrades into non-recyclable waste. This limits its utility in a circular economy.
3. Delaying the Inevitable: While rPET reduces the need for virgin polyester, it does not address the core issue: the industry’s reliance on synthetic, non-biodegradable fibers. The use of rPET simply delays the need for a more sustainable solution, such as recycled cotton.

How the Industry Should Unite to Make Recycled Cotton the Primary Fiber

To make recycled cotton the industry’s primary fiber, stakeholders across the supply chain must collaborate:

1. Investment in Recycling Infrastructure: The industry must invest in advanced recycling technologies that can efficiently process post-consumer and post-industrial cotton waste. This includes mechanical and chemical recycling methods that preserve the quality of cotton fibers.
2. Collaboration Across the Supply Chain: Brands, manufacturers, and recyclers need to work together to ensure a consistent supply of high-quality recycled cotton. This involves establishing partnerships with suppliers and investing in long-term contracts to secure recycled cotton at scale.
3. Consumer Awareness and Demand: Brands must educate consumers about the benefits of recycled cotton and promote products made from sustainable materials. Consumer demand is a powerful driver of change, and brands that align with this trend will gain a competitive advantage.
4. Policy Advocacy: The industry should advocate for policies that incentivize the use of recycled cotton. This could include tax breaks for companies that meet certain sustainability criteria or subsidies for recycling infrastructure.

The Role of GATS and ASSPL in Leading the Change

The Global Alliance For Textile Sustainability Council (GATS), an industry-led alliance of the world’s largest recyclers based in Panipat, India, is at the forefront of this movement. GATS is committed to improving the quality and accessibility of recycled fibers, making them a preferred choice for manufacturers worldwide.

At Aadi Sustainability Solutions Pvt. Ltd. (ASSPL), we are building India’s first waste-to-denim garment manufacturing facility. Our plant will produce high-quality denim garments entirely from recycled cotton, demonstrating that sustainability and profitability can coexist. By showcasing the economic and environmental benefits of recycled cotton, we aim to set a new standard for the industry.

Conclusion: A Collective Responsibility

The transition to recycled cotton as the industry’s primary fiber is not just an option—it’s a necessity. The environmental and economic benefits are clear, and the tools and technologies needed to make this shift are already available. What’s required now is collective action.

As the textile industry moves towards a more sustainable future, recycled cotton must play a central role. By investing in innovation, collaborating across the supply chain, educating consumers, and advocating for supportive policies, we can ensure that recycled cotton becomes the cornerstone of a new, circular economy.

The time to act is now. Together, we can transform the textile industry and create a future where fashion is sustainable, circular, and responsible.

For People and Planet: Your trusted source for insights on sustainability and the challenges shaping our world.

References:

1. Textile Exchange. (2023). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2023.
2. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2023). The Circular Economy in Textiles: Reducing Environmental Impact through Innovation.
3. WRAP. (2023). The Cost of Recycled Cotton: An Economic and Environmental Analysis.
4. Levi Strauss & Co. (2024). Sustainable Denim: The Role of Recycled Cotton in Reducing Water Use.
5. H&M Group. (2024). Close the Loop: A Case Study in Circular Fashion.
6. Patagonia. (2024). Worn Wear: Building a Sustainable Future through Consumer Engagement.
7. bcg-sustainable-raw-materials-will-drive-profitability-oct-23