The Restaurant Industry During World War 2.

Canada's Restaurant Guy, Jay Ashton

As the world was embroiled in the throes of World War II, the restaurant industry across North America underwent a profound transformation. The war's impact on the United States and Canada reshaped not only the way restaurants operated but also the societal roles associated with them, ushering in a new era in the culinary world.

The introduction of food rationing by the governments, including the British and American administrations, was one of the most significant changes that affected the restaurant industry. Essentials such as meat, fats, milk, sugar, eggs, and coffee were rationed to ensure fair distribution among the population. This rationing system had a direct impact on restaurant menus, forcing chefs to be more innovative with limited ingredients.

In response to these shortages, governments encouraged people to grow as much of their own food as possible. Consequently, fruits and vegetables became prominent ingredients in most dishes, leading to the popularity of vegetable pies, turnovers, fruit preserves, and even carrot cookies. Restaurants adapted their menus to use ingredients that were readily available, reflecting the resourceful spirit of the time.

Spam, gained popularity during the war. It became a versatile ingredient for various meals, including Spam sandwiches, Spam hash, and plain Spam dishes. Its prevalence was due to its availability and ease of use in a variety of dishes, making it a staple in many households and restaurants.

The war years also saw a significant change in the roles of women in the restaurant industry. With many men serving in the military, women started to manage family restaurant businesses. They took on responsibilities such as managing ration coupons, ordering supplies, stocking groceries, keeping accounts, paying bills, and generally making do with limited resources. Restaurant owners, many of them women, had to repair old equipment like gas ranges and boilers, as plans for upgrading to newer models were put on hold until after the war.

The menus in restaurants also underwent notable changes. The Art Deco menu designs of the 1920s and 1930s, known for their fancy highlights of gold and glitter, were replaced by simpler formats printed on cheaper quality paper, a necessity brought on by the war. Menus had fewer pages, often just covers with the selections on the inside and a list of cocktails on the back. A patriotic quote like “Buy War Bonds” was sometimes printed on an inside corner. If there was a daily special, it would be noted on a small piece of paper, perhaps handwritten, and attached with a paperclip or straight pin.

In Canada, the federal government took unprecedented steps to transform Canadians’ diets. This included a concerted propaganda campaign to promote certain ‘patriotic’ foods, the wartime launch of an unprecedented national nutrition campaign, and the introduction of thousands of individual controls on the price, production, and distribution of everyday foods. Foods like apples and lobster were rebranded as “patriotic” after the export markets for both products collapsed, with the government running advertisements and publishing articles encouraging their consumption.

The restaurant industry's landscape was further reshaped by the war, with the average person patronizing restaurants more than ever before. This was particularly evident in Southern California, where an estimated 250,000 workers in war plants, lacking housekeeping facilities, turned to public eating places for their meals. The Office of Price Administration's announcement in January 1943 that the public would not need ration coupons in restaurants led to a significant increase in restaurant patronage. For instance, in Chicago, Loop restaurants experienced a 25% increase in business, and by October of that year, patronage in NYC restaurants had doubled.

The war also influenced the emergence of new food products and technologies. The use of frozen food by the military led to its rapid adoption by the restaurant industry. By 1955, frozen foods accounted for 20 to 40% of restaurant supplies. Along with frozen foods came new technologies for their preparation, such as microwave ovens and quick-recovery griddles, both of which were military spinoffs. The Radar Range, presented at the National Hotel Exposition in 1947, was developed using principles of infrared technology developed during the war. This not only permitted food to be cooked lightning-fast but also made reheating pre-cooked frozen entrees possible. Another marvel was the Rocket Griddle, which featured fast heat recovery that enabled frozen food to be cooked without defrosting.

Following the war, the development of the air freight industry, stimulated by the availability of trained pilots and surplus airplanes, permitted restaurants to obtain foods from locations around the world. A restaurant in Chicago, for example, was approached by two former Air Force fliers who proposed to fly in king crabs from Alaska by freezer plane. By 1952, this restaurant was bringing in strawberries from Florida and California, lettuce from Kentucky, salmon from Nova Scotia, pheasant and venison from South Dakota, grouse from England, and paté from France.

World War II was a period of profound change for the restaurant industry in North America. It was a time marked by rationing, innovation, and a shift in societal roles, leading to lasting changes in the way restaurants operated and the types of food they served. The resilience and adaptability shown by those in the industry during these challenging times are a testament to the enduring human spirit and the transformative power of collective effort and ingenuity.

A Roadmap for the Future

The history of our industry is not just a record of past events, but a roadmap that guides us towards the future. The ingenuity and adaptability shown by restaurateurs during World War II provide valuable lessons in overcoming adversity. These lessons teach us that even in the face of seemingly insurmountable challenges, the restaurant industry has the capacity to evolve, innovate, and thrive.

Navigating the Future

The experiences of the Canadian restaurant industry during World War II highlight the importance of being prepared to adapt to changing circumstances. As we face our own challenges in the present day, whether they be economic, societal, or environmental, the resilience demonstrated in the past serves as a beacon of inspiration. By learning from these experiences, we can navigate the future with greater wisdom and foresight.

It's crucial to approach our history with respect and acknowledgment of the sacrifices made during those times. The hardships endured by those in the industry during the war were substantial, yet their response to these challenges laid the foundation for many practices and innovations we see in modern cuisine today. By understanding and appreciating these contributions, we can honour their legacy while also embracing change and innovation in our industry.

As we commemorate the history of the Canadian restaurant industry during World War II, we recognize that it is an integral part of our larger narrative. This history is not only about resilience in the face of adversity but also about the transformative power of collective effort and ingenuity. The lessons learned during this period can guide us in shaping a future that's adaptable, innovative, and respectful of our past, ensuring that the roadmap to our future is informed by the rich tapestry of our history.

Canada's Restaurant Guy, Jay Ashton

Citation

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