The main form of raglan sleeves is that the shoulders of the body are connected with the sleeves, and a clear dividing line is drawn from the neckline to the underarms, which can make the body and sleeves more closely combined. The shape design of the raglan sleeves is based on the research on the shape of the human shoulder and the design of the human arm.
Structural analysis and study design of the range of motion of the human arm. When wearing it, the arms droop naturally, the armpits are not flat, and there are redundant folds.
Expandable space.... The front and rear raglan lines of the raglan sleeves are also closely related to the structure of the human body. The front raglan line usually starts from the collar line, passes through the clavicle and pectoralis major to the front axillary point, and the back raglan line starts from the collar line. Beginning, through the scapula, deltoid to posterior axillary point. The changing trend of the armhole arc of the raglan sleeve. The front and rear armpit points are the turning points of the armhole arc change. The raglan line above the armpit point changes according to the style, and the raglan line below the armpit point is based on the shape of the sleeve. Depends on state and body structure.
Classification of raglan sleeves
- Divided into four categories according to the form of dividing line.
- Straight body raglan sleeves: the shape of the center line of the sleeve is straight, so the front and back pieces can be combined into one piece of sleeve or only one piece of sleeve structure can be saved on the sleeve mountain.
- Curved body-fitting raglan sleeves: the centerlines of the front and rear sleeves are arc-shaped. The centerline of the front sleeves is generally less than or equal to 3 cm in front, and the center line of the back sleeves is offset by the center line of the front sleeves - 1 cm.
- Half raglan sleeves: The dividing line divides a part of the body from the shoulders and chest, and merges with the sleeves.
- Shoulder-covered raglan sleeves: the dividing line divides the chest of the body, and sodeyama merger.
Divided into three categories according to wearing comfort
- Neutral raglan sleeves: Neutral raglan sleeves mean that the fit of the sleeves is approximately equal to the angle of about 45 degrees formed by the arms on the hips and the human body. At this time, the height of the sleeves is equal to A H / 3. In a neutral state, the height of the sleeve mountain is mostly 13.
- Fitted raglan sleeves: Fitted raglan sleeves usually have a sleeve height of 14 to 15, the cuffs are small, the angle is increased, the center line of the sleeve is lowered, and the back sleeve seam can be used as an elbow dart.
- Loose raglan sleeves: Loose raglan sleeves usually have a sleeve height greater than l3, and the cuffs are also enlarged, so that the angle is reduced and the midline of the sleeves is raised upwards high, the armhole opening is deep, and the lowered part of the sleeve hill can be used as the armhole opening depth.
According to the change of structure style
- One-piece raglan sleeves, two-piece raglan sleeves, three-piece raglan sleeves, gusseted raglan sleeves, etc.
The relationship between raglan sleeve and human arm movement
The structure of the human arm and its static characteristics
- Relationship with upper limb bones: upper limb bones are divided into upper limb girdle and free upper limb bones. The upper limb girdle is composed of the clavicle and the scapula, and the free upper limb bones are composed of the ulna, radius, hand root bone, and phalanges of the forearm.
- Relationship with upper limb muscles: upper limb muscles, upper arm muscles, forearm muscles.
- Upper limb shape: the upper limb is not straight, but slightly bent at the elbow joint where the upper arm and forearm are connected, and droops with curvature. The body and sleeves of the #clothing wrapped on the outer surface of the human body and arms form a structure of two intersecting three-dimensional curved surfaces at the armpits of the human body.the three-dimensional curved surface of the body and the three-dimensional curved surface of the sleeve body are flattened along the intersection line of the joint part (armhole arc and sleeve mountain arc), forming the basic shape of the sleeve mountain and the basic shape of the armhole of the planar structure. The shadows formed by the shoulder blades and armpits have been removed during the conversion from the plane structure to the three-dimensional structure, thus forming a three-dimensional clothing structure that is suitable for the shape of the human shoulder blade and arms.
Dynamic characteristics of human upper limb belt
- Human upper limb movement direction and terms: ① left flexion, right side bend. ②Abduction and adduction (lifting from the side). ③ Stretch and flex. ④ Flexion (raise the front). ⑤Rotating inwardly and outwardly. ⑥ Forward bending and backward bending. ⑦ outside the level extend and adduct horizontally.
- Upper limb movement: mainly the shoulder joint and elbow joint as turning points, resulting in human body movement deformation. In addition to the contraction of the skin itself, the amount of motion deformation also includes the flexion and extension of the joints, and the muscle contraction caused by it.
- From the perspective of the upper limb belt and the structure of the upper limb: the direction and amount of movement of the upper limb are two basic elements, and the range of motion of the arm is mainly the front, side and top of the human body. The raglan sleeve is to solve the problem of increasing the amount of human body movement, so install the sleeves forward along the direction of the arm, so that there is a certain gap between the cuff and the wrist, which is completely in line with the movement direction of the human arm and ensures the range of movement broadness.
Structural design of raglan sleeve Element relationship
- Raglan sleeve The determination of the inclination angle of the midline of the sleeve has a great influence on the range of motion of the arm. The greater the inclination angle of the sleeve center line, the less the folds of the underarms will be. Such raglan sleeve clothing looks beautiful in shape, but the range of motion is reduced and the activities are restricted. If the inclination angle of the sleeve center line decreases, the stretch of the arm becomes looser but the underarm folds also become more, which is neither beautiful nor comfortable, so we must choose a moderate sleeve angle. Usually, the variation range of the forward inclination angle of the sleeve is about 2O～65, and the variation range of the rear inclination angle is L9 ~ 50 or so. Raglan sleeves The determination of sleeve height and sleeve fat also has a great relationship with the amount of arm activity. The higher the sleeve height, the smaller the sleeve fat. On the contrary, the lower the sleeve height, the larger the sleeve fat, so we also need to choose a suitable sleeve height. To make clothing suitable for arm activities, the range of activities of sleeve root fat is mostly around 16-22. There is another factor restricting the design of the raglan sleeves, which is the intersection point of the bodice. The bodice intersection point is usually at the distance from the back width line to the prototype 6 cm above the bust line, the intersection point of the front piece is at the position where the bust line is 4 cm away from the prototype bust line. The change of the position can adjust the size of the gap between the sleeve and the garment. The larger the gap between the sleeve and the garment, the more beautiful the shape The fit will be more in line with the range of motion of the human arm.
Through the structural research on the shape of the raglan sleeve in this paper, we have roughly understand that the purpose of raglan sleeves is to increase the amount of human body activity to a larger range under the premise of aesthetics. In this way, we should pay attention to the raglan shoulder line, high sleeve height, fat sleeves, deep armholes and body of the raglan sleeves. intersection, etc.
Influence and constraints of various data. There is no certain invariability in a sleeve. As long as we grasp the changing law of the sleeve and the structure of the upper limbs of the human body, we can design more beautiful fits or loose fits clothing that suits you.
