The Radical Convergence: Connecting Sustainability Intelligence (SI) and the EPR Sandbox to the Global Denim Industry

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The UKFT Association Sustainability Conference 2024, held on 26th September, highlighted the dynamic relationship between business practices and sustainability through the EPR Sandbox project. This project closely aligns with the concept of Sustainability Intelligence (SI), which I am exploring in my doctoral research on “Sustainability Intelligence (SI): A Transformative Design of the Denim Industrial System” at Buckinghamshire New University . The EPR Sandbox represents a systemic solution to the sustainability challenges faced by the fashion industry, particularly in the denim sector, and how it can embrace systemic thinking to drive change.

EPR Sandbox as a Manifestation of Systemic Convergence

Systemic convergence fosters a collaborative approach, where individual companies and the broader industrial system work together to align their practices with sustainability values (Meadows, 1999; Fletcher & Tham, 2019). The EPR Sandbox is not just an optional initiative but is evolving into a global imperative, integrating eco-modulation to tackle international sustainability challenges. This project aligns with Peter Senge’s (2006) systemic thinking, emphasizing interconnections across industries, government policies, and global supply chains. By leveraging variable fees based on environmental impact, it creates a powerful mechanism for incentivizing circular economic practices, not only within the UK but across the global denim sector.

EPR restructures business systems to promote accountability at every stage, from production to post- consumer waste management (Niinima?ki et al., 2018). The denim industry, with its significant socio- economic role, is positioned as a critical stakeholder in this transition. Leading organizations in the denim industry, including major trade shows, sustainability advocates, and supply chain transparency experts are well-positioned to shape sustainable practices on a global scale. These entities have the potential to contribute significantly to a global data-informed cluster, fostering collaboration and innovation in sustainable denim production (UKFT, 2024). This clustering of shared knowledge strengthens fashion governance, while the EPR Sandbox enhances data management capabilities, simplifying the fragmented systems currently in place.

Engaging with UKFT Leadership

At the UKFT Sustainability Conference 2024, I had the opportunity to briefly meet Adam Mansell , the CEO of UKFT Association , where I expressed my gratitude for all the fantastic work the organization has been doing to elevate the scale and scope of sustainability initiatives in the fashion industry. His leadership in driving systemic change, particularly through the EPR Sandbox Project, has set an inspiring precedent for future developments in sustainable fashion.

I also had the chance to discuss potential collaborations with Elizabeth Dakin , the Sustainability Manager at UKFT Association . We explored ideas about how UKFT's national and global efforts can be leveraged to create systemic change across both the national and global fashion industrial systems, especially in the denim sector. Elizabeth emphasized the importance of addressing the social, environmental, and economic dimensions of sustainability in a balanced way. Her optimistic view on integrating these dimensions aligns with the goals of my research, which focuses on the denim industry and its role in advancing sustainability intelligence.

A Proposal for the Global Denim Industry’s Role in EPR Sandbox

A key insight from the conference was how denim manufacturers can lead the way in adopting EPR principles through the EPR Sandbox Project. Denim, historically linked to issues of resource-intensive production and labour challenges, faces a unique set of sustainability hurdles. For example, the massive water usage involved in producing denim, along with the disposal of toxic chemicals used in dyeing processes, poses significant environmental risks. These issues can be addressed through the EPR Sandbox, which incentivizes brands to experiment with and implement solutions such as reducing water usage, adopting cleaner dyeing technologies, and improving waste management systems (Paul, 2015; Muthu, 2017).

The EPR Sandbox framework supports brands in promoting ethical consumption by improving supply chain transparency and helping manufacturers quantify and track their social and environmental impact. Denim sector organizations should collaborate with international bodies to ensure global parity and foster equitable working conditions across supply chains.

Beyond Economics: EPR’s Socio-Economic Impact on Denim

The EPR Sandbox not only addresses environmental concerns but also opens a gateway to ethical employment opportunities in the UK. Emerging industries in repair, repurposing, and recycling are creating new jobs, particularly for those involved in circular economy efforts (Niinima?ki et al., 2018). This systemic convergence positions UKFT as a multifaceted bridge between government policies, fashion brands, and global supply chains.

The EPR Sandbox can be recognized as one of the superior solutions for fashion sustainability, embodying the radical actions needed to normalize sustainable practices within the industry. As discussed in my blog, "Sustainability Intelligence (SI): A Journey, Not a Destination," it is crucial to understand that achieving a truly sustainable system requires comprehensive and ongoing efforts (Singh, 2024). The EPR Sandbox provides a framework through which these substantial outcomes can be realized, helping stakeholders navigate the complexities of sustainability in the denim sector. By fostering collaboration and encouraging innovative practices, the EPR Sandbox enables brands to address the pressing environmental and social challenges inherent in denim production, ultimately supporting a more sustainable future for the fashion industry.

The denim industry’s long-standing role as both a fashion staple and a socio-cultural icon makes it an ideal candidate for testing and refining these systemic approaches. The UN SDGs are already leveraging the denim sector’s global appeal to foster greater environmental and social awareness. EPR Sandbox project, with its flexible yet structured fee systems, becomes the mechanism through which sustainable fashion transitions from a theoretical goal to a real-world application (Elkington, 2013).

Towards Global Sustainability Governance

The EPR Sandbox Project offers a superior solution for fashion sustainability, particularly when viewed through the lens of Sustainability Intelligence. By balancing eco-modulation with systemic solutions across

diverse cultural and geographical contexts, it bridges the gaps between government and industry, improving local governance and fostering healthy international relations as fashion brands and suppliers work towards common sustainability goals (Fletcher, 2022).

A powerful insight from the UKFT Sustainability Conference is a compelling call for the global denim industry to take a leading role in the EPR Sandbox. By embracing this initiative, the denim sector can pioneer a transformative shift towards sustainable practices, setting a bold example for the entire fashion industry. With tools like the EPR framework, the global denim industry can transition into a beacon of sustainable practice, influencing global fashion governance and fostering a truly circular economy.

Gurpreet Singh

PhD Candidate, Buckinghamshire New University | Email: [email protected]

References

• Elkington, J. (2013). The Triple Bottom Line: Does It All Add Up? London: Earthscan.
• Fletcher, K. & Tham, M. (2019). Earth Logic: Fashion Action Research Plan. London: Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
• Meadows, D. H. (1999). Leverage Points: Places to Intervene in a System. The Sustainability Institute. Available at:
• Muthu, S. S. (2017). Sustainability in Denim. Woodhead Publishing.
• Niinima?ki, K., et al. (2018). Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy. Aalto University School of Arts, Design and
• Paul, R. (2015). Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Elsevier.
• Senge, P. M. (2006). The Fifth Discipline: The Art and Practice of the Learning Organization. New York: Doubleday.
• Singh, G. (2024). Sustainability Intelligence (SI): A Journey, Not a Destination. Available at:
• UKFT (2024). EPR White Paper: Extended Producer Responsibility in Fashion. Available at: https://ukft.org/epr-whitepaper/