The Present Food System and Who Runs It and the World

A sustainable, local food system is everything that what we have today is not. According to Sustainable Jungle (n.d.), sustainable food systems promote food equity and security using methods that conserve the environment and foster human welfare from farm to fork. Howard from Faithfull Farms discussed the ‘farm’ aspect in class where he talked about monoculture and conventional agriculture, which is the farm component of the present food system, and how the processes involved such as tillage and the use of chemical inputs destroy the ecosystem, and well as pollute the food and water supply. So of course, food equity is impossible under such a system.

Food equity, a direct benefit, is when everyone around the globe has access to and the ability to grow (if they want) healthy, affordable, and culturally sensitive food.?

The present food system cannot provide that because it is skewed to primarily benefit capitalist elites - and that has a lot to do with its roots. The United States of America, currently the world’s greatest superpower, provides a good microscopic view of this global system, especially given its part in engineering what we have today. The American food system rides on capitalism, which flourished through racism. Racism was encouraged to facilitate the dispossession of indigenous farmlands and genocide them, as well as purchase West Africans to do treasonous levels of farmwork and dehumanize them at it, the profits gotten from the export of such produce further funded planters and the Industrial Revolution (Holt-Giménez and Harper 2016), which was when many mechanized farm machinery used in conventional agriculture was invented. Racism is still present in today’s food system, where black and small farms have been increasingly consolidated due to the USDA’s deliberate neglect (Bustillo 2023; Semuels 2019). Large farms are in the hands of few, who are mostly white because of the United States’ racist history in land holdings, capitalist underpinnings, and discriminatory lending and financing practices in agriculture (Pennick 2000). This was the situation underlying my question to the founder of Seal the Seasons in class about the multi-generational farm owners that he partnered with. The US’ racist history makes it understandable that these multi-generational farms spanning into the 19th century could not have been owned by a non-white family, and its food system is a vicious cycle for members of historically marginalized groups.?

Farm and food workers are overwhelmingly people of color who face discrimination, are underpaid, and suffer greater food insecurity and twice the wage theft that their white counterparts face (Holt-Giménez and Harper 2016; Food Chain Workers Alliance [FCWA] et al. 2014). Thus, poverty becomes racialized (DeNavas-Walt, Proctor, and Smith 2013), and in turn, food insecurity, obesity and diet-related diseases, and economic burden on already poor families of color (Haas Institute for a Fair and Inclusive Society at UC Berkeley, Elsheikh, and Barhoum 2013). Farmworkers are not only underpaid but also face health risks (along with their families) due to overexposure to the chemical inputs used in conventional agriculture (Meehan et al. 2011, 11500), which are produced in facilities found in low-income, marginalized communities (“Production & Dumping” n.d.). Industrial meat production site-generated feces also cause respiratory and bacterial diseases in the farmers and members of the low-income, rural communities where the farms are usually located (Ladd and Edward 2002, 28-30). Many farmworkers are immigrants who are exploited by farmers due to a lack of documentation and/or language barriers (Castillo et al. 2021, 259).???

The current food system is unjust on all ends of the food spectrum, from production to disposal. Food waste is heavily disposed of in low-income, minority communities that are overflowing with hazardous waste landfills and waste transfer stations (Mohai et al. 2007, 39-45).

Of course, the need to solve the system’s problems has been approached in different ways, though as we can tell, they are insufficient. More than once, solutions to systemic racism in agriculture fall under just or charitable responses, a discussion we had in class earlier in the semester. I recall making the basic distinction that charitable responses treat the symptoms while just responses treat the actual problem (DeMarco 2024), with the majority of the ones that we read during this class falling under the former. There have been some just responses though, such as the mix that we read of in Week 5. That week, we studied the need for solutions that consider the social conditions of its recipient, as well as how what was meant to be a solution to food insecurity via increasing access to healthy, affordable foods was only just a way to gentrify the community and rack more profits at the expense of the low-income, black residents (McMillan 2014). More complex, Whole Foods was neither a just nor charitable solution and it gave an overview of how a farm-to-fork system that is wholly based on profiteering can obstruct food security and equity. This aligns with what Colby said in class, that the American food system is geared towards ‘produce, produce, produce’ without any attempt to add intrinsic value.?

This propensity for numbers and profit is exemplified in the rise of Dollar Stores that offer little to no fresh food to the many low-income households that they feed and increase their presence despite the consequences of driving out small, independent grocers (Kelloway 2018). Dollar Store’s low variety and quantity of healthy foods means they are likely not connecting to local farmers as independent grocers do, with their replacement of the grocers also leading to local job, investment, and food sovereignty loss, thus undermining food equity. The capitalistic food system present in the United States cannot encourage food equity when its target consumers don’t have a say in food decisions or a stake of some form in the profits, which instead go to usually out-of-state corporate shareholders at the Headquarters. Ironically, large ‘factory farmers’ in the United States get subsidies, while those that produce fruits and vegetables don’t (Allen 2011), which artificially lowers the prices of unhealthy, processed goods that are found in these historically disempowered communities, and further undermines resilience by incentivizing production of a few (commodity) crops (Fields 2004). In addition, there have been numerous attempts (and past successes) to cut the financial assistance program funds that members of these communities depend on (Nixon 2014).

In sharp contrast, Healthy Helping was a program that led to an increased purchase of food and vegetables for food assistance beneficiaries via financial incentives (Lowery et al. 2022). However, stigma is still a barrier to use that has been left unsolved at present. There are also other barriers to just solutions that will promote food equity. Colby noted in class, how many government-provided programs for the underserved Native American communities were grossly underfunded, as well as the distrust due to a history of exploitation including the land dispossession and genocide that I mentioned earlier. Despite native foods being healthier than conventional food, only 7% of Native American households that participated in a study had access to native foods (Sowerwine et al. 2019, 595-99) due to reasons including targeted land management policies such as in the film ‘Gather’, where the government wanted to lower the buffalo population for the increased land area for conventional agriculture (capitalism), genocide and forced assimilation via boarding schools which resulted in the loss of cultural know-how (Rawal 2020).?

The United States food system is a perfect representation of the global food system. In the place of marginalized communities, developing countries bear the brunt of an inequitable food system. The global food system based on conventional agriculture perpetuates this inequity based on two mechanisms: nonclimate and climate change-related. Concerning the former, the excessive expansion of palm oil production for processed foods, deforestation driven by increased livestock production, expanding pasture lands, and feed production are processes that make the soil less resilient and necessitate more land consolidation despite persistently high rates of hunger (Lappé 2009). According to the Global Hunger Index, progress in reducing hunger has stalled with 58 countries projected to still not have low hunger rates by 2030 (Global Hunger Index 2023a; Global Hunger Index 2023b). Less resilient regions, as well as low and middle-income countries, have been affected the hardest, primarily due to structural factors of poor governance, conflict, and poverty (Global Hunger Index 2023a; Global Hunger Index 2023b).?

On the climate change-related mechanism, the current global food system affects climate change which in turn, cycles to impact the food system and equity. Every component of the food production chain contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, which is 52.3 billion tonnes of CO2- equivalents (Poore and Nemecek 2018; Ritchie 2019). Livestock and fisheries production including manure and pasture management contributes 30% of food emissions, crop production processes such as the use of machinery, and application of manure and fertilizers account for 27% of food emissions, land use including intensive palm oil production and unsustainable agricultural practices such as tillage and plowing which leave the soil vulnerable, accounting for 24% of food emissions (Poore and Nemecek 2018; Ritchie 2019). The food supply chain which includes retail, packaging, and processing, contributes 18% to food emissions, of which transport contributes the largest - 6% (Poore and Nemecek 2018; Ritchie 2019).

Summarily, commercial agriculture uses processes that release a lot of emissions and destroy the land, leaving it vulnerable to the effects of climate change. Coupled with continuous farming, the soil is wrecked, which calls for land consolidation and expansion, both of which push out smaller, local farmers. Intensive palm oil production on these lands is for processing packaged foods that are primarily sold in low-income and marginalized communities, are used for increased livestock production which supports weaponization of food for export to low-income countries, and for heavy feed production which wastes grains that would have been used to reduce world hunger (Lappé 2009, 109-11).?

In addition, climate change negatively impacts the food supply, and groups that are most vulnerable to food shortages such as impoverished communities, Indigenous People, youth, and women, usually don’t have resources to respond to the effects of climate change or be resilient in the face of a food shortage. Climate change has led to increased temperatures, weeds, and pests, precipitation, as well as higher occurrence of extreme weather events such as droughts and floods, all of which affect crop yield, increase losses, transport damages (via bad transport systems), and indirect costs, with greatest damage going to smallholder farmers that live in low-income countries and are less resilient to these shocks (Morton 2007). Rising ocean temperatures have affected the coral reef ecosystems (with an annual value of $5 billion) which threaten the livelihoods of the 500 million people that depend on the reefs for food and resources (Munday et al. 2008; Hoegh‐Guldberg 2010; Porter et al. 2015, 493). Thus, climate changes caused by the current global food system have led to food shortages.?

These shortages cause increased food prices, which in turn lowers rates of food security in poor, less resilient communities, ushering food and health inequities in these communities (Porter et al. 2015, 494). Rising temperatures and drought - fueled by climate change - have caused problems for Sriracha pepper farmers despite these peppers being usually cultivated at relatively high temperatures (to other crops like tomatoes), with minimum amounts of water used in production (Wu 2023). Now, the drought has reduced water reserves (which are at risk for diversion to human consumption, the warm temperatures leave the peppers exposed to weeds, pests, and diseases, and farmworkers suffer dangerous work conditions due to heat (Wu 2023). All these inevitably led to a Sriracha shortage, affecting the taste, price, and availability of local dishes.

The present food system also causes water inequities. The increased dependence on chemical inputs for crop production and the rise of Concentrated Animal Feed Operations (CAFOs) for livestock production (Lappé 2009, 112), have led to the presence of these chemicals and by-product manure on the soil, contaminating it and water via run-off and on-point pollution (Ladd and Edward 2002, 28). This has affected the groundwater and waterways around where these farm operations are located, which are usually low-income and rural communities.?

Poor water conservation policies do not help the situation either. As with food, solutions to keep water available for everyone are often ill-thought-out, evasive, and perpetuate access disparities, which is why construction such as water lagoons is happening in places as a way to conserve water for everyone, which won’t happen. For instance, the drought in the Southwest United States is the worst in years and the Colorado River, which is a major water source for many states, is drying up (LastWeekTonight 2022). From the get-go, there have been equity issues in its allotment. At the state compact start, nonexistent water was allocated, thus the river supports more people and water use than it should, for the sake of the economic development of the states along it. In addition, the compact didn’t address the Native American tribes or Mexico - which also borders the river - and thus, these tribes have had to fight for their access rights ratified and for the necessary infrastructure to do so, afterward (LastWeekTonight 2022).

Despite the dwindling water supply, farmers are compelled to overuse their water to keep their allotment and there are no regulations on extracting groundwater for big farming operations, which reduces the water level, damages the land and homes built on and around the extraction site, and leaves homes without running water (LastWeekTonight 2022), thus causing inequities dependent on the flexible resources that one has to back up the lack of water. Some states like Las Vegas have responded with good conservation policies such as banning ornamental flowers and grasses on lawns, and use of salty water for fountains and displays, which has reduced their overall dependence on the Colorado River by 26%, though the population is growing by 34% (LastWeekTonight 2022).

Summarily, the present food system doesn’t equitably feed or treat disempowered communities from all across the world. In addition, its reliance on international trade not only worsens climate change but also leaves the food supply vulnerable to shocks, problems that a local food system would fix. Importing and exporting countries have developed chronic imported food dependence and lowered production diversity respectively, which means they cannot handle disruptions to the food system i.e. are not resilient (Kummu et al. 2020). Disruptions/shocks include political crises, natural disasters, higher production costs, as well as food bans done to safeguard domestic consumption (Gephart et al. 2017). The coronavirus pandemic was a shock that heavily affected the entire food supply chain, especially in developing or underdeveloped countries (Aday and Aday 2020, 169; Love et al. 2021).

Local food systems are resilient because they depend on local knowledge and players in the community (Love et al. 2021; Kummu et al. 2020; Hamilton et al. 2020; Pingali, Alinovi, and Sutton 2005, S14-S15). Combining local with sustainable means small-scale and organic farming that depends on people, not heavy machinery, and doesn’t use chemical inputs. That means fewer fossil fuels spent in production and distribution, lower rates of water pollution, and more resilient farms that can handle drought and extreme weather changes due to climate change.

Local food systems are sustainable because they often address the systemic drivers of food insecurity, rather than being fixated on greater food output as the solution. For instance, women in India are heavily involved in food production but suffer from gender inequities despite their contributions (Agarwal 2010, 67). Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) began supporting women-farming groups that were interested in organic farming and producing diverse crops (Agarwal 2010, 70-71). This led to improved food productivity, reduced discrimination, improved food quality, and increased communal resilience to shock (Agarwal 2010, 71-73).?

A local food system can range from the farmstead to an entire region (Ellis n.d.). The Secretariat for Nutrition and Food Security in Belo Horizonte, Brazil established food security programs that linked the urban poor to rural farmers through subsidized food vendors, farmer markets, a school meal program, and a food bank (World Future Council 2009; Rocha and Lessa 2010; World Future Council n.d.). Urban agricultural programs are also mandated to get local produce supplies. Not only did this increase healthy food consumption in cities and local support for food assistance programs - which will reduce malnutrition - rural-urban migration reduced, and rural incomes became stable, improving their quality of living (Rocha and Lessa 2010).

Local, sustainable food systems stimulate the economy, and lead to healing and transformation, as seen from the many examples discussed in the classroom. Freedom Farmers’ Market provides a place for African-American farmers to meet African-American customers, sell healthy food, and release culturally relevant food information (Meyers 2015). It also provides a safe communal space, matching sustainable practices on the farm to cooperative, communal values that are sought after in the African-American community, and a shift away from the rugged individualistic US culture that drives the current supply-chain food system from Wall Street (Meyers 2015).

There are also programs developed to further food sovereignty in Native American communities. The USDA supported the Food Distribution Program on Indian Reservations (FDPIR) Self-Determination Demonstration Project with $3.5 million ((Food and Nutrition Service 2021; Goodluck 2022), and the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Office of Minority Health awarded a $10 million grant to The Center for Indigenous Health Research and Policy (CIHRP) at OSU Center for Health Sciences (Candid and Native Americans in Philanthropy 2023), both of which will support training, expansion of knowledge on Indigenous foods and foodways, as well as facilitate food purchases from Indigenous vendors and farmers, which will lower food insecurity and injustice, as well boost the local economy and support resilience.

The rise of Food Policy Councils (FPCs) mirrors a growing understanding of the benefits of a local, sustainable food system as FPCs strive to boost the local economy and increase equitable access to healthy food that is cultivated in a just manner (Harper, Alkon, et al. 2009). FPCs challenge the capitalist nature of each component of the current food system, especially by its underlying principles of food sovereignty, engaging with the local community as people who know their food problems and are capable of suggesting feasible solutions (Harper, Shattuck, et al. 2009, 22; Harper, Alkon, et al. 2009). Scholars from the Meridian Institute recommended in their report, efforts to bridge local, Indigenous, practitioner, and academic knowledge to solve food problems (Niles et al. 2017, 15). This positive development doesn’t mean that there are no barriers to FPCs and by extension, a local, sustainable food system.?

As discussed earlier, the present food system has strong capitalist roots that were facilitated by different forms of oppression. Thus, it is imperative that solutions to problems caused by the system would also address their roots. Unfortunately, there was an in-class discussion on how the Orange County Food Council got shut down because council members tried to look at the food problems via a race and equity lens and engage with individuals from marginalized communities on this basis. The unwillingness to address the systemic factors behind food insecurity and access disparities is a barrier to progress on this front.

In addition, transforming food production systems / making them more sustainable involves either relocation or a shift in production, processing, and marketing methods, adjusting to changing ecosystems, or the application of new technology and methods to support that ecosystem (Rob Carter et al. 2021, 20-21). Some parts of the world might not have the incentive to change due to the relatively mild climate change effect in those places, and there is also a lack of resources and technical knowledge to support the transformation to a local and sustainable one, especially in low-income, vulnerable communities/countries, who still grapple with a lack of resilience (Carter 2021).?

There is mixed evidence on the ability of sustainable food systems to feed a global economy (Niles et al. 2017, 22). This doesn’t eliminate the fact the current global food system does not feed (or treat) everyone in the world equitably. The benefits of a local, sustainable food system are numerous and pockets of intervention have led to success stories. However, the barriers especially in a capitalist-leaning society, as well as varied evidence on whether it can produce as much as the present system exist, and highlight the importance of the need for more research on the latter, as well as innovative strategies that are supported and funded by every national government and relevant international organizations on how to reconcile equity with production output, especially for the most vulnerable members of their societies. In addition, there still needs to be further research done on any missed opportunities to improve the current food system to prevent any future solutions from creating the same problems.?

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Ritchie, Hannah. 2019. “Food Production Is Responsible for One-quarter of the World’s Greenhouse Gas Emissions.” Our World in Data. November 6, 2019. https://ourworldindata.org/food-ghg-emissions.

Rocha, Cecília, and Iara Lessa. 2010. “Urban Governance for Food Security: The Alternative Food System in Belo Horizonte, Brazil.” International Planning Studies 14 (4): 389–400. https://doi.org/10.1080/13563471003642787.

Semuels, Alana. 2019. “‘They’re Trying to Wipe Us off the Map.’ Small American Farmers Are Nearing Extinction.” TIME, November 27, 2019. https://time.com/5736789/small-american-farmers-debt-crisis-extinction/.

Sowerwine, Jennifer, Megan Mucioki, Daniel Sarna‐Wojcicki, and Lisa Hillman. 2019. “Reframing Food Security by and for Native American Communities: A Case Study Among Tribes in the Klamath River Basin of Oregon and California.” Food Security 11 (3): 579–607. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-019-00925-y.

Sustainable Jungle. n.d. “Sustainable Food Systems: What, Why, & How?” Accessed March 29, 2024. https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-food/sustainable-food-systems/.

World Future Council. 2009. “The City That Beats the Hunger: Belo Horizonte Wins International Award.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZAT7O_I0jQ.

World Future Council. n.d. “Belo Horizonte’s Food Security Policy.” FuturePolicy. Accessed March 31, 2024. https://www.futurepolicy.org/food-and-water/belo-horizontes-food-security-policy/.

Wu, Katherine J. 2023. “The Sriracha Shortage Is a Very Bad Sign.” MSN. August 15, 2023. https://www.msn.com/en-us/foodanddrink/foodnews/the-sriracha-shortage-is-a-very-bad-sign/ar-AA1fjqvV.

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Carter, Rebecca. 2021. “How to Transform Food Systems in the Face of Climate Change.” World Resources Institute. June 23, 2021. https://www.wri.org/insights/how-transform-food-systems-face-climate-change.

DeMarco, Molly. 2024. “From Charity Toward Justice - Nutrition 245 Spring 2023.” Slide show. January 24, 2024. https://1drv.ms/p/s!AiDR6YFM4COTgqR2d4anB_yN40w6Qw.

Harper, Alethea, Alison Alkon, Annie Shattuck, Eric Holt-Gimenez, and Frances Lambrick. 2009. “Food Policy Councils: Lessons Learned.” Food First. December 1, 2009. https://archive.foodfirst.org/publication/food-policy-councils-lessons-learned/.

Kelloway, Claire. 2018. “Dollar Stores May Do Low-Income Areas More Harm Than Good.” Eater, December 17, 2018. https://www.eater.com/2018/12/17/18144639/dollar-store-growth-effect-low-income-local-grocers.

Lappé, Anna. 2009. “Food, Inc.?: How Industrial Food Is Making Us Sicker, Fatter and Poorer - and What You Can Do About It.” In The Climate Crisis at the End of Our Fork, by Karl Weber, 105–17. PublicAffairs. https://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA90468568.

LastWeekTonight. 2022. “Water: Last Week Tonight With John Oliver (HBO).” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtxew5XUVbQ.

Lowery, Caitlin M., Richard C. Henderson, Neal Curran, Sam Hoeffler, Molly De Marco, and Shu Wen Ng. 2022. “Grocery Purchase Changes Were Associated With a North Carolina COVID-19 Food Assistance Incentive Program.” Health Affairs 41 (11): 1616–25. https://doi.org/10.1377/hlthaff.2022.00902.

McMillan, Tracie. 2014. “Can Whole Foods Change the Way Poor People Eat?” Slate Magazine. November 19, 2014. https://www.slate.com/articles/life/food/2014/11/whole_foods_detroit_can_a_grocery_store_really_fight_elitism_racism_and.html?wpsrc=sh_all_mob_tw_top.

Meyers, Gail P. 2015. “Decolonizing a Food System: Freedom Farmers’ Market as a Place for Resistance and Analysis.” Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development 5 (4): 149–52. https://doi.org/10.5304/jafscd.2015.054.025.

Rawal, Sanjay, dir. 2020. “Gather.” Illumine Group. https://www.netflix.com/title/81152263.

Semuels, Alana. 2019. “‘They’re Trying to Wipe Us off the Map.’ Small American Farmers Are Nearing Extinction.” TIME, November 27, 2019. https://time.com/5736789/small-american-farmers-debt-crisis-extinction/.

Wu, Katherine J. 2023. “The Sriracha Shortage Is a Very Bad Sign.” MSN. August 15, 2023. https://www.msn.com/en-us/foodanddrink/foodnews/the-sriracha-shortage-is-a-very-bad-sign/ar-AA1fjqvV.

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