Preparing to climb El Cap: What does it take?

The Dawn Wall offered some of the rawest, wildest, and most honest rock-climbing filmmaking, all centred on the planet’s most difficult big-wall free climb. In the film, it was particularly obvious that both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell came from different backgrounds and had very distinct pre-season preparations for their first ascent on Yosemite’s El Capitan. What were they, and how systematic was each climber in getting ready for that final push?

Jorgeson

Jorgeson comes from a bouldering background. In preparation, he committed to gym bouldering plus a fierce hangboarding protocol during which he’d use the intervals between hangs to crank out pushups. But he did little else, other than some stretching to open his hip flexors.

During the lead up, Jorgeson’s good friend Brad Parker perished in a free-soloing accident. Suddenly, a grieving Jorgeson had lost motivation as he came to terms with this tragic loss. However, Caldwell’s persistent encouragement re-engaged Jorgeson and he was able to regain his confidence.

It seems that Jorgeson did almost nothing in preparation. He showed up out of shape and managed to get in shape over the few months they were there.

Caldwell

Caldwell took a more scientific approach. Caldwell had the head for the Dawn Wall but needed the physical toolbox to match. To begin, Caldwell focused on the raw strength he’d need to do the individual moves and his diet.

After two months spent powering up, Caldwell committed to a manic bouldering blitz in nearby Chaos Canyon. He was climbing and training six days a week, pushing beyond fatigue. That overtraining allowed his body to adapt to ever harsher loads, so that when he did eventually rest, he’d return feeling incredibly stronger. Caldwell also created mini-challenges along the way, to “keep the fire burning hot, but not burn out,” a sort of goal matrix.

It's up to You really

In the end, of course, both climbers succeeded. Show up and get in shape on the wall and see what happens vs. train like a fiend to make sure it happens.

I invite you to look at the way you prepare for an important challenge. It might be an interview, or a sales presentation or a meeting. Or a problem-solution discussion of any kind. Whatever it is, it calls on you to bring your best. I encourage you to examine not only your attitude and intentions, but also your actual behaviour.