" Precision in Every Loop: The Evolution of Knitting Machines and Fabrics."

Knitting is a textile process that involves inter-looping yarns to create fabric. It can be done either by hand or by machine and is classified into two main types: weft knitting and warp knitting. In weft knitting, yarns run across the fabric width, while in warp knitting, they run along the fabric length. The loops of yarn can be created in rows, either flat or in a circular shape.

Industrial knitting machines are used for large-scale fabric production and are categorized based on fabric formation techniques (warp or weft knitting) and machine configurations (single or double jersey). Circular knitting machines, flatbed machines, and specialized machines like seamless garment or socks knitting machines are widely used to produce various textiles such as apparel, sportswear, and home textiles. Advances in knitting technology, including computerized designs and automated functions, allow for greater precision and efficiency in fabric manufacturing.

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Weft knitting is a process where the yarns run across the width of the fabric during formation. This is similar to the weft yarns in woven fabrics. Weft knitting machines are classified into several types, mainly based on their shape and the types of fabric they produce.

1. Circular Knitting Machines

These are the most commonly used weft knitting machines for garment production. The machine components include needles, cams, sinkers, and a rotating cylinder. They are classified into two main types: single jersey and double jersey machines.

1.1. Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine

This type of machine produces single-layered fabric. It is further divided into:

·??????? Plain Knitting Machine: Uses latch needles and sinkers, which move in sync with cams to produce simple fabrics like t-shirts.

·??????? Two-track and Four-track Machines: These machines can produce a variety of designs due to multiple cam tracks. They are fast and are used for garments like t-shirts, underwear, and swimsuits.

·??????? Terry Knitting Machine: Produces fabric with loops of different heights, typically used for towels and soft fabrics. The machine monitors fabric density and can produce terry towels and lycra fabrics.

·??????? Jacquard Single Jersey Machine: Capable of producing complex, textured designs such as flowers and patterns using three needle positions (knit, tuck, miss). These modern machines are computerized for pattern storage.

1.2. Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine

These machines produce thicker, stretchable fabrics compared to single jersey machines. The main types include:

·??????? Rib Knitting Machine: Known for producing highly stretchable fabric, often used in garments like tops and casual wear. Rib structures like 1x1, 2x2, and 4x4 are common, which means alternating rows of knit and purl stitches.

·??????? Interlock Knitting Machine: Produces fabric with identical faces on both sides. The fabric is thick and durable, often used for innerwear and sportswear. It uses two sets of needles, with both short and long needles.

·??????? Pique Circular Knitting Machine: Produces a fabric with a waffle-like texture, commonly used for polo shirts.

2. Straight Bar Knitting Machine

These machines have a straight needle bar and are commonly used for knitting sweaters, much like hand-knitted garments. The machine has bearded needles and uses a cam system for precise control. There are two types: single-needle and double-needle straight bar machines, used for rib and single jersey fabrics. Although slower than other industrial machines, they offer more control over the fabric structure.

3. Flat Bar Knitting Machine

Flat bar machines produce fabric similar to circular knitting machines but use straight bars for knitting. These machines are mainly used to create 3D-structured fabric, collars, and cuffs. Needles move in a back-and-forth motion to form stitches. The machine is versatile and used in both garment and fabric production.

3.1. V-Bed Flat Knitting Machine

This type of machine has two needle beds arranged in a V-shape. It produces fabrics by moving the needles and cams in a back-and-forth motion. This machine is commonly used for structured fabrics and fully-fashioned garments like sweaters and collars. It can also knit complex stitches like tuck and transfer.

4. Warp Knitting Machines

In warp knitting, yarns run along the length of the fabric. These machines are different from weft knitting as they use multiple yarns simultaneously.

4.1. Raschel Knitting Machine

This machine uses latch or compound needles and has more guide bars and warp beams than other machines. It produces sturdy and complex fabrics, often used for technical textiles and lace. The gauge is defined as the number of needles per two inches, and these machines operate at moderate speeds.

4.2. Tricot Knitting Machine

Tricot machines use bearded or compound needles, producing fabric quickly with fewer warp beams than Raschel machines. They are used for lightweight fabrics like lingerie and sportswear. The gauge is usually measured by needles per inch, and these machines are faster than Raschel machines.

5. Socks Knitting Machine

Socks knitting machines work on the same principle as circular weft knitting. Needles knit in sequence around a cylinder, forming fabric in a tubular shape. These machines can produce socks with great precision, ensuring proper yarn feeding and stop-motion control for high-quality production.

6. Whole Garment Knitting Machine

These machines are used to knit entire garments in one piece without the need for sewing fabric components together. This seamless knitting technology is highly efficient and used for manufacturing garments like sportswear and underwear. Companies like Santoni and Shima-Seiki lead in producing these machines. Seamless garments are stretchy and offer high comfort for activewear and innerwear.

In summary, weft knitting machines vary in their design and function depending on the type of fabric they produce. Circular, flat, warp, and seamless machines all serve different purposes in the textile industry, offering flexibility in fabric design and garment production.

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Knit Schematics Overview

Knitting is a process of fabric formation involving the inter-looping of yarns. It is primarily divided into two main categories: weft knitting and warp knitting. Each method produces a variety of fabrics, and knitting machines are used to create these textiles.

Weft Knitting

In weft knitting, yarns are fed into the machine's needles in a horizontal direction. The most common machine used for weft knitting is the circular knitting machine, which creates fabric in a spiral, tubular form. This spiral effect can cause challenges in achieving a perfect 90-degree alignment between the fabric's wales (vertical columns of loops) and courses (horizontal rows of loops).

Weft knitting is used to produce various fabric types, including single and double knits.

Single Knits

1. Single Jersey: A basic and widely used fabric type, featuring vertical lines on the front and horizontal ribs on the back. It is used in t-shirts and undergarments but can unravel easily.
2. Double Jersey: Known for its textured patterns, used in polo shirts and casual wear. (Single lacoste,Double Lacoste,Pique)

Double Knits

Double knits are more stable and do not curl at the edges. They are made with two sets of needles, creating a more structured and thicker fabric.

1. Rib Knit: Characterized by vertical wales on both sides, rib knits are stretchy and often used for cuffs, collars, and waistbands. It’s reversible, meaning both sides look the same.
2. Purl Knit: Reversible fabric that looks the same on both sides, often used for sweaters and baby clothes due to its stretch ability.
3. Interlock Knit: A heavier, thicker fabric with identical surfaces on both sides. It is strong, stable, and commonly used for apparel that requires a firm structure.
4. Cable Fabric: Made using a loop transfer technique, this fabric has a rope-like appearance and is commonly used in sweater designs.
5. Cardigans: A variation of rib knit with tuck stitches that produce a thicker, raised texture. Cardigans can be half or full, with full cardigans being reversible.
6. Milano Ribs: Another variant of rib knit, Milano ribs are tightly knit fabrics with half and full variations. They are commonly used in sweaters and suiting fabrics.

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Specialized Weft Knits

• Intarsia: A multicolored, patterned fabric where different colored yarns create distinct blocks of design.
• Jacquard Jerseys: Produced using Jacquard mechanisms, these fabrics feature complex patterns and textures created by varying stitches and yarns.
• Knitted Terry & Velour: Both are pile fabrics made with additional yarn loops on the fabric surface. Terry has longer loops, while velour is brushed for a softer feel, used in towels, bathrobes, and luxury apparel.
• Sliver Knit: Imitates fur with long, dense piles on the surface, commonly used in jackets and coats.
• Fleece: A soft, warm fabric with additional yarn inserted for stability and comfort. Fleece is often used in sportswear, jackets, and sweaters.
• French Terry: Features loops on one side and a smooth surface on the other. It is highly stretchable and used in sportswear and infant clothing.

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Warp Knitting

In warp knitting, yarns are fed vertically, creating a more stable fabric than weft knits. Warp knitting machines can produce a wide range of fabrics, including more intricate and durable options.

Tricot Knit

Tricot knits are made primarily from filament yarns, known for their smooth surface on the front and crosswise courses on the back. These fabrics are lightweight and commonly used in lingerie, nightwear, and sports apparel.

Raschel Knit

Raschel knits are made with spun or filament yarns and are characterized by their open, intricate designs that resemble lace or crochet. They are often used in garments with decorative designs.

Conclusion

Knitted fabrics are highly versatile, with a wide range of types and applications. Weft and warp knitting each offer unique characteristics, from stretchy, comfortable weft knits to stable and decorative warp knits. Circular and flat-bed knitting machines allow for diverse fabric production, meeting the demands of various fashion, home, and industrial textile needs.