POTATOES AND SKEPTICISM
The brief history of the potatoes its presence in the Italian territory, including the Parmentier discovery.
Friends:
The history of the potato in Italy is a fascinating journey, initially marked by skepticism and then by deep integration into the country's cuisine, especially in regional and peasant traditions. Originally from the Andes in South America, the potato was introduced to Europe after the discovery of the New World. However, only in the 18th century did it begin to spread as a food in Italy. When it arrived on the peninsula in the 16th century, the potato was not welcomed with enthusiasm.
On the contrary, potatoes were seen as food for animals and even suspects due to their connection with toxic plants of the same botanical family, such as belladonna (the deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna), the highly poisonous plant that can be confused with the harmless twin-berry honeysuckle)
It was only in the 18th century, thanks to the work of agronomists such as Count Carlo Ginori in Tuscany and Alessandro Volta in Lombardy, that the potato began to be cultivated and consumed by humans. It was promoted for its nutritional properties and ability to grow in different climatic conditions, representing an essential solution against famine.
Once accepted, the potato quickly spread throughout Italy, becoming a pillar of regional cuisines. In Tuscany, for example, it is the base of Tuscan pasta and potatoes, a simple but hearty dish. In the Garfagnana area, west of Florence, potato gnocchi is prepared, symbolizing the local cuisine. In Campania, the potato is used to prepare dishes such as potato pizza and the famous gattò di patate, born in the 18th century at the Bourbon court of Naples, thanks to the influence of French chefs working there in the form of Monzu'. (kitchen staff).
Potato Gateaux from Naples (Image attribution via Fine Dining Lovers)
In Piedmont, it is the protagonist in Bagna cauda and Gnocchi alla bava, seasoned with a cheese fondue. In Veneto, polenta and potatoes are a classic mountain dish, while in Basilicata, potatoes are a fundamental part of dishes such as potato frittata and "originate," which originate in the oven with tomatoes, onions, and oregano.
The potato gained immense significance in Italian peasant families' dietary habits due to its remarkable versatility, high nutritional value, and straightforward cultivation process. Despite its low-fat content, the potato is abundant in complex carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins, and minerals, making it a cost-effective source of sustenance for rural communities. Notably, its ease of preservation during winter, whether in its whole form or as an ingredient in various dishes, ensured a steady food supply for families over extended periods. This exceptionally adaptable tuber democratized Italian cuisine by enabling individuals to craft flavorful and inventive meals even with limited resources.
Puree is another additional example of the classic "cucina povera" dish, which, although simple, offers substantial nutrition and satiety. The potato is a pivotal component of Italian gastronomy, intricately intertwined with comforting culinary creations and deeply ingrained in regional traditions and the culinary heritage of peasant communities.
Antoine-Augustin Parmentier Rendition
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We cannot write about potatoes without knowing Antoine-Augustin Parmentier (1737–1813), a French pharmacist, agronomist, and nutritionist who promoted potato use as a food in France and Europe.
Until the 18th century, the potato was looked upon with suspicion and considered dangerous or only suitable for animals. Thanks to his dedication and creativity, Parmentier became crucial in overcoming these beliefs. During the Seven Years' War, Parmentier was taken prisoner in Germany, where he ate potatoes, which were already commonly consumed in that country.
From this experience, he realized that potatoes were safe and highly nutritious. Upon returning to France, he decided to promote potatoes to solve the famines plaguing the people. In 1772, Parmentier obtained official recognition of the nutritional properties of potatoes from the Academy of Medicine in Paris. He began to promote them with various strategies.
Among these, he organized banquets at the royal court. King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette could taste potato-based dishes, demonstrating that they were tasty and suitable for everyone. He also planted potatoes near Paris, having soldiers guard the crops during the day to create curiosity and make the potatoes seem valuable. At night, the guards were withdrawn, allowing the population to "steal" potatoes and spread their use.
Parmentier also wrote scientific treatises on the uses and benefits of potatoes, attempting to convince the population through rational and scientific arguments. Through his efforts, the potato became a staple food in Europe, helping to solve food crises and improve food security.
Potato cultivation circa 1779 rendition
Today, Parmentier is remembered for his contribution to the introduction of the potato into European diets, and many French dishes bear his name, such as soupe Parmentier (a potato and leek soup) and Hachis Parmentier (a cottage pie-like casserole). His legacy as a pioneer of nutrition and agronomy lives on, and so does the skeptical tuber.