Perugia: A Must-Visit Italian Spot

I’d traveled around Italy for business and pleasure but hadn’t visited Perugia, a couple of hours north of Rome in the boot’s center, so was delighted to discover this charming city whose old center seemed out of a Shakespeare play.

While on a tight schedule at last month’s International Journalism Festival where I spoke during an “unconference” and a round table, and attended several invaluable sessions, I managed to take in some of the beauty, history and delectable delights in this capital of the Umbria region.

Perugia panorama at dusk (Abu-Fadil)

Perugia, at an elevation of almost 500 meters (1,640 feet) above sea level, is full of winding roads up steep hills, narrow alleys, and stairs leading to various parts and historic buildings in the city.

My hotel was nestled along a pedestrian-only, old brick and stone buildings alley down huge stairs from a square where the airport van dropped me off. Challenging to carry a suitcase, while wearing a backpack, and walking with a cane, without tripping.

Alley to my hotel (Abu-Fadil)

Fortunately for a friend staying at a hotel much further downhill from me and where all the action was, there were escalators at several points to help facilitate the trek. 

Strolling through Perugia’s streets after checking in one notices countless arches and connecting balcony bridges, religious and mythical figures carved into the walls, as well as statues, fountains, paintings, and frescos.

A stroll in Perugia's old center (Abu-Fadil)

That’s outdoors. Inside those weathered buildings one’s eyes feast on more works of art.

My hotel's dining room ceiling (Abu-Fadil)

Italy is just one big museum. I’ll cover the Perugia museum I managed to visit in another blogpost.

While antiquity was the predominant visual theme where conferees were accommodated and attended their respective sessions, there were definite touches of modernity, like an electric car charging station on one of the main squares, in a nod to environmental protection.

Electric car juicing up in Perugia (Abu-Fadil)

Naturally, music is also part of the art and culture scene and it wasn’t unusual to come across a street performer straight out of central casting with a fluffy gray beard blowing in the wind and serenading passersby with “Volare” as I headed to the Piazza IV Novembre.

"Volare" serenade (Abu-Fadil)

Too bad I can’t be there for the annual summer “Umbria Jazz” festival, that some aficionados consider the best in the world.

Another event is the religious music festival known as “Sagra Musicale Umbra” that I’ll have to enjoy another time.

Piazza IV Novembre with Maggiore Fountain as its centerpiece (Abu-Fadil)

The piazza’s centerpiece is the pink and white Maggiore Fountain, completed in the 1200s and fed by the aqueduct originating on Monte Pacciano. 

Behind it rests the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo that spans centuries in history and architecture and whose Medieval fa?ade features a Baroque portal, carvings, and a window atop the entrance with a crucifix sheltered behind the glass.

Entrance to the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Abu-Fadil)

Across the piazza sits Sala della Vaccara, on the north side of Palazzo dei Priori, and the site of the former church of San Severo. It was the seat of the municipality’s first archive. It, too, houses parts of frescos of saints and other figures and was where our “unconference” was held.

Sala della Vaccara (Abu-Fadil)

On to palate-tickling delights.

Besides the fine arts, architecture and music, Perugia, hosts “Eurochocolate,” the international chocolate festival, which this year marks its 25th anniversary, and is scheduled from October 19 to 28 in the old city center.

Perugina and Bacio chocolates (Abu-Fadil)

Sadly, I’ll miss that, too, but our hosts made sure we got to savor their world-famous Perugina and Bacio chocolates by handing out bags and bars of them. Next time I hope to take the chocolate tour.

There was no shortage of artisanal chocolate shops dotting the old town.

Artisanal chocolates galore (Abu-Fadil)

There are also food and wine festivals.

Our meals were delightful – too many details to recount on the antipasti, primi piatti, secondi piatti, house and regional wines, and dolci.

Another delight was enjoying slow food served with a flair - proper changes of dishes and cutlery between courses – and courteous attentive waiters. None of that fast food, plastic plates, cups and eating utensils, self-service nonsense.

Truffles, considered a special touch in many Umbria region recipes, made certain dishes all the more distinctive. So I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to buy several packs of egg-based tagliatelle made with white truffles that were put to good use with various sauces and meats.

Egg-based tagliatelle with white truffles (Abu-Fadil)

Cheeses are another must-buy, but they shouldn’t be the runny types on long trips, so I succumbed to Perugia’s beer-flavored Pecorino and 30-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano.

Beer-flavored Pecorino and aged Parmigiano Reggiano (Abu-Fadil)

Lest we forget meats, there are delicious beef, veal, and pork dishes. I sampled them in antipasti and main courses.

Then there was the inevitable purchase of well-packaged varieties for travel: Perugia salame and salsicce, a sausage made from ground pork, beef, or veal, along with salt, spices, flavorings, and breadcrumbs.

Salame and salsicce (Abu-Fadil)

I won’t even get into the amazing selections of breads and desserts. Not for the calorie-counting faint of heart.

Last, but not least, my strolls took me past a shop selling a wide range of cannabis products that seemed a franchise of an Amsterdam operation. It was one of 41 stores across Italy – six in Rome alone.

Perugia pot (Abu-Fadil)

Pot to smoke, eat as cookies, suck on as multi-flavored lollipops, brews to drink, you name it.

No, I didn’t buy any.