Optimized low pH formulation of niacinamide can improve skin ageing appearance via autophagy induction.

According to study in June, 2020, it has been reported that Niacinamide (Nam; aka nicotinamide, vitamin B3) can protect cells from oxidative stress, UV-induced immunosuppression and metabolic disruption. Mechanistically, it has become apparent that Nam can have a significant impact on numerous processes associated with skin homeostasis and ageing. While the impact of Nam on autophagy has been less studied in skin cells, it has been reported that Nam can induce mitophagy, a select form of autophagy, in dermal fibroblasts. Mechanistically it is believed that this is via increased NAD+ cellular pools. However, there have been no reports to date on the role of Nam on autophagy in epidermal keratinocytes.

Topical formulations containing Nam have historically been practiced within a neutral pH range to prevent formation of niacin, a known vasodilator. It is also known that acidic formulations at pH 4.0 can promote skin barrier function,16, 17 particularly in elderly skin where skin surface pH is more alkaline.18 Interestingly, while it has been reported that acidic conditions in vitro can induce autophagy,19 it is not known whether a topical formulation would have any impact on autophagy.

According to study results in June, 2020, It has found that Nam induces autophagosome accumulation and ATG5 levels in keratinocytes and a Nam formulation at pH 3.8 can further increase levels of ATG5 in 3D skin models when compared to Nam at pH 5.8. These data support that Nam can induce autophagy in keratinocytes and formulations at pH 3.8 can enhance the impact. It is hypothesized that optimized formulations at pH 3.8 can improve skin ageing appearance via autophagy induction.

Credit :J.E. Oblong,?Y.M. DeAngelis,?B.B. Jarrold,?J.C. Bierman,?H.A. Rovito,?L. Vires,?B. Fang,?T. Laughlin,?W. Zhao,?S.M. Hartman,?R. Kainkaryam,?R. Adams,?J.D. Sherrill,?T. Hakozaki