Novel Skincare Ingredients and Its Future Potentials in the Market

Have you ever noticed how many ingredients your cosmetics use? Maybe you notice some substances but maybe you are not familiar at all. There are some ingredients that maybe you have never heard of. These new ingredients that you might not recognize are probably the novel ingredients in your cosmetics that have been developed by scientists. Developing a skincare product can be portrayed such as choosing your salad in the salad bar. Imagine you walking to the salad bar, choosing the vegetables, dressings, and sauces. There are many options and each of them offers a different palate and health benefits. For example, there are many options for salad dressing. This dressing has been developed and researched so it's unique and differs from the already-existing salad dressing. Some of the dressings are unique and novel because it gives a new organoleptic experience compared to the already known dressings. In pursuit of developing a new, yet market-competitive product, researchers have been developing several cosmetics ingredients that have better efficacy or are produced from unique sources. Here are several examples of novel ingredients in skincare that has future potential in the cosmeceutical market:

Cosmeceutical Containing Viable Beneficial Bacteria

In our skin, there are millions of bacteria that live there and have been beneficial for our skin. Alongside with fungi and viruses, they construct a skin microbiome that acts as a protective barrier. Staphylococcus epidermidis is a beneficial skin bacteria because it produces several bioactive compounds that can improve skin moisture retention, balancing skin pH, and improve skin texture. Unfortunately, our skin microbiota can be disrupted by several factors and to be rebalanced in order to function properly.?

Nodake et al. (2015) proposed an idea to make a skincare ingredient from our own viable S. epidermidis. The process includes isolating S. epidermidis from our own skin, enriching the bacteria in media, freeze-dried the bacteria cells, and applied in the gel-matrix facial cream. Although this novel ingredient consists of living bacteria, it has been tested on the clinical trials that the product has only a small risk of undesirable effects.

SkinGuideTM formulated a skincare product containing viable, freeze-dried probiotics of Lactobacillus rhamnosus LB21 CS and L. rhamnosus SP1 CS to combat atopic dermatitis (AD). After clinically tested, a statistically significant decrease in mean EASI score was observed after 28 days. A visible improvement in skin aspect was observed in 67% of the subjects on week 4. On average, the intensity of pruritus decreased by 57% as compared to baseline. This effect was observed in 86% of the subjects. No relevant adverse reactions were observed following treatment with the skin care product and the majority of the subjects appreciated the product for its general characteristics, properties, and efficacy. Based on the tests, it could be concluded that the skincare could be used for the treatment of eczematous lesions in subjects with atopic skin (Imko-Walczuk 2019).

Mineral Coating Vehicle Sunscreen (EnvioScreen)

Sunlight exposure could harm our skin and the skincare manufacturer has developed several methods to improve skin protection from UV lights. However, some sunscreens are made from chemical-derived compounds and could cause allergies to some consumers. Another problem regarding sunscreen products is that the product only limits protection to UV rays, but not with infrared and intense blue light exposure. EnvioScreen? is a novel, sun-protecting agents made from chemical-free, mineral-based, and zinc and titanium dioxide active encapsulated coating. This novel ingredient has several claims: nourish skin, protection from free-radical, protect against UVA/UVB damage, air pollution, blue light and infrared radiation. It also provides broad-spectrum SPF50/PA+++ and PA++++ protection (Bernstein et al. 2019).

Growth Factor-based Serum (A+)

The beauty standard is often portrayed as smooth skin texture without wrinkles. However, as age increases, the aging process is inevitable. Commonly found skincare with anti-aging claims offer skin correction by “reversing” the symptoms of aging. However, the aging mechanism is affected by several factors called “hallmarks of aging”. Hallmarks of aging can be prevented and delayed by targeting the hallmark’s pathways and processes to achieve the true “anti-aging” benefit. This topical growth factor-based serum is made from human fibroblast conditioned media (hCCM) that contains growth factors and cytokines that support overall skin health and function. This novel ingredient claimed that this ingredient could solve four hallmarks of aging problems. As these novel ingredients target the biomechanisms of the aging process and boost the skin regeneration process, multiple skin quality parameters including wrinkles and sagging are rapidly and significantly improved compared to the commonly found skincare (Naughton et al. 2023).?

Nanoencapsulated Retinoid (Retilex-A?)

To always look young and beautiful has always been the beauty standard in society. Unfortunately, aging is inevitable. To minimize the aging process, some treatments are required. The “golden standard” for skin’s anti-aging is commonly known as retinol. Even the so-called “golden standard” has its flaws: low bioavailability and common irritation side-effects. To minimize those effects, Retilex-A? comes with the idea of retinoid nanoencapsulation.? Retilex-A? is a proprietary nano-encapsulated retinoid with enhanced bioavailability and skin penetration profiles and improved skin compatibility. It is indicated for the prevention and treatment of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging. Nano-encapsulated Retilex-A? improves skin bioavailability and tolerance due to a diminished molecular disintegration rate, constant release profile, increased absorption ratio and reduced skin irritation compared to conventional free forms of retinoid. In the end of the day, the clinical evidence signifies that the nano-encapsulation technique used in RetileX-A? significantly intensifies and accelerates the anti-ageing efficacy of retinol ester (Wadstein et al. 2022).?

L. plantarum VHProbi? V22 Postbiotic Anti-Acne Cream

Cosmeceutical containing living microorganisms such as probiotics has become a promising novel cosmeceutical product, since probiotics produce beneficial metabolites through the fermentation process. However, not every country allowed probiotics containing cosmetics to be mass produced because of the safety concern. As an alternative, the probiotics are inactivated by destroying the cell and harvesting only the beneficial metabolites. The probiotics could inhibit the growth of C. acnes, which promotes acne forming, because it contains antimicrobial peptides and bacteriocin inhibitor-like substances. Therefore, the substances or metabolites produced by the probiotics could be beneficial for combating acne formation. Postbiotics are soluble, bioactive, non living microbial cell components that have many practical advantages over probiotics, as they show bioactivity in a nonviable state and are easier to formulate due to their favorable physicochemical properties. After several trials and clinical tests, L. plantarum VHProbi? V22 are highly suitable for treating subjects with mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris (Cui et al. 2022).

Skinproof offers efficacy and safety testing to support the validity of your novel ingredient skincare products.

REFERENCES

Bernstein EF, Sarkas HW, Boland P. 2019. Beyond sun protection factor: An approach to environmental protection with novel mineral coatings in a vehicle containing a blend of skincare ingredients. J Cosmetic Dermatology. 19:407-415. DOI:10.1111/jocd.13007.

Cui H, Feng C, Guo C, Duan Z. 2022. Development of novel topical anti-acne cream containing postbiotics for mild-to-moderate acne: An observational study to evaluate its efficacy. Indian J Dermatol. 67:667-73.

Imko-Walczuk B, Taraszkiewicz A, Mayra A. 2019. Soothing efficacy and tolerability of a skin care product containing live Lactobacillus rhamnosus bacteria and berry seed oils on atopic dermatitis lesions. Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications. 9(2): 83-93. DOI:10.4236/jcdsa.2019.92007.

Naughton GK, Jiang LI, Makino ET, Chung R, Nguyen A,Cheng T, … Mehta RC. 2023. Targeting multiple hallmarks of skin aging: preclinical and clinical efficacy of a novel growth factor-based skin care serum. J Dermatology and Therapy. 13:169-186. DOI:10.1007/s13555-022-00839-2.

Nodake Y, Matsumoto S, Miura R, Honda H, Ishibashi G, Matsumoto S, … Sakakibara R. 2015. Pilot study on novel skin care method by augmentation with Staphylococcus epidermidis, an autologous skin microbe – A blinded randomized clinical trial. J Dermatological Sci. 79(2): 119–126. DOI:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.05.001.

Wadstein J, Alvarez IS, Lopez LB. 2022. Managing Skin Ageing as a Modifiable Disorder—The Clinical Application of Nourella? Dual Approach Comprising a Nano-Encapsulated Retinoid, Retilex-A? and a Skin Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy, Vercilex?. Cosmetics. 9(2):31.