Northern Cyprus: Varosha’s Ghosts
[excerpted from, Stories Across Cultures: Europe, South & East, by Anne Hilty, ?2023]
Beautiful, tragic, and filled with ghosts.
Much of the world sees the Turkish invasion as a violation of international law and its stay an illegal occupation, while naturally, Northern Cyprus and Türkiye hold a differing view.
As a result, sanctions have been imposed, including inhibition of trade and tourism, and the northern region is far less developed with a significantly lower economy than the south as a result. Northern Cyprus is heavily dependent on Türkiye both economically and militarily; what’s more, an estimated half of the region’s population is today made up of settlers from Türkiye, though the region is considered an independent state with its own governance.
As I crossed over the Nicosia / Lefko?a border on foot, I was immediately struck by the distinction of the border itself. Street art and graffiti can be seen on both sides of the wall; while those on the Greek Cypriot side are generally political and refer to occupiers, those on the Turkish side focus on peace instead. This is not to extol the latter; it is simply that the two views of the conflict itself are starkly different.
In sum: Türkiye says it brought troops in and maintains a military presence to ensure the security of the Turkish Cypriots, as tension between the 2 groups had been rising and Greek nationalists were calling for their own takeover. Greece, meanwhile, and the EU and much of the international community, see this as an illegal invasion and occupation as mentioned. Greek Cypriots speak of how “we got along and were all Cypriots first” and think reunion possible if only Turkish troops would leave. Turkish Cypriots often have a very different story, of increasing discrimination since the end of the island’s Ottoman era (1571-1878). And so it goes.
The capital on the Turkish side is markedly different from that of Nicosia. Immediately noticeable is the Selimiye Mosque, converted by the Ottomans from the early 13th century Cathedral of Saint Sophia, and the walled Old Town bedesten or covered market (formerly a 6th-century church) which, as one steps through the massive Famagusta Gate with its wooden doors, gives one the impression of having stepped back in time. The nearby Samanbah?e Quarter, the island’s first planned community of small, whitewashed houses with red tile roofs, in rows along a series of alleyways, has a charm all its own.
I had another objective, however. Hopping into a dolmu? or shared taxi, I was off to Famagusta, the former citadel with that ghost town of Varosha nearby.
The owners of my Famagusta apartment were part of the partitioning: Turkish Cypriots originally from the southern part of the island, he from Limassol, she from Paphos, their families were required to relocate to the north. Their grown son, a ship's captain born in 1988 and thus well after the 1974 war that resulted in this divided island, told me: "We are ethnically Turkish, we speak Turkish language, we are Muslim -- but we have no affinity for Türkiye. In the end, we are Cypriots."
Make no mistake: while a majority of Cypriots both Greek and Turkish express longing for reunification, there are also ultra-nationalists on both sides who consider the other as the enemy; those who immigrated from Türkiye, now fully 50% of this population, tend to be more conservative than Cypriots, and less interested in reunification.
The Victory Monument along the ring road around the citadel, with its giant Ataturk image atop and both Turkish and Northern Cyprus flags, speaks for itself.
Famagusta, or Gazima?usa in Turkish, is a rather modern city and an important commercial center, its port the island’s deepest harbor; the historic citadel contains its exceedingly charming Old Town. My apartment was new construction and very modern with a sea view, though some parts of the city are less well developed and the city’s economy is obviously moderate.
The ‘ghost town’ area of Famagusta, a seaside resort area known as Varosha, was once the #1 resort region in all of Cyprus and a destination of the world’s glitterati. During the 1974 Turkish invasion and subsequent conflict, owners were forced to abandon their properties and flee – thinking that they would soon be able to return when the conflict subsided. No one expected the island’s long-term division and the region is still contested territory 45 years later, under the watchful eye of Turkish military and UN peacekeepers.
I walked up to the UN buffer zone around the Varosha area. While there are many signs prohibiting photographs, it’s possible to peer into the region nevertheless. Clearly abandoned, its hotels and other buildings empty and decaying for decades with broken windows and dreadful conditions, it’s nevertheless easy to close one’s eyes and imagine what it must have been like in its prime … an especially poignant symbol of the island’s sad division.
Highly controversial. Far more so, since its October 2020 partial reopening to civilians (one must also take into account that this was during the height of the pandemic); in May 2022, a moderate stretch of beach was opened for commercial use. As most or perhaps all of the former owners were Greek Cypriots now having lost their property rights, this has been severely criticized.
Just north of Famagusta, archaeological ruins at Salamis and Enkomi were under active exploration primarily by the British and French prior to 1974; dated at 11th century BCE, they represent Bronze Age civilization and are deemed particularly significant. Subsequent to the Turkish invasion, however, and due to international sanctions, all such has ceased since that time.
There is an ongoing cooperative effort to locate the remains of 2,000-3,000 Cypriots, both Greek and Turkish, missing since the 1974 war and division. This is part of the ongoing task of reconciliation – despite the high emotions of this issue, as well as those of lost property, forced relocation, ‘occupation’, denied benefits, lack of recognition, and more, and a great deal of bitterness and pain on both sides.
The two regions do not trade with one another, however. As an example, Cyprus is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world, yet all vineyards are on the Greek side. Cypriot wines, therefore, cannot be purchased in Northern Cyprus. (Turkish wines, a substantial industry, are imported instead.)
In contrast, when I was preparing to depart, the owner of my apartment offered to drive me to Ayia Napa – through a new checkpoint and on the Greek Cypriot side. When I asked him how this was possible for him, he told me that those from Northern Cyprus are permitted to cross into the ‘European’ side for certain purposes, and that, as he owns a business, he goes there on weekly shopping excursions. As we approached the border patrol, he showed his business permit and also told the guard that I was heading to Larnaca airport, and we were waved through.
With 7 crossing points now and limited permission for locals, and a variety of cooperative endeavors, there is hope for more cooperation in the future. Conversely, however, since 2019 and despite European protest, the Turkish government drills for oil and gas off the coast of Northern Cyprus, yet another sticking point in this stalemate.
As to reunification: highly unlikely.
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