Normal in China

This article is not for people who know China well. It is also not for people who expect deep and eye-opening insight. And it is especially not for those who look for the dark side in everything Chinese. You may actually stop reading here.

This article is about what I found to be normal in China. The normal that surprised me, the normal that made me smile, the normal that I enjoyed, the normal that makes China human without suspicion. Here we go:

Facial recognition is normal

At the airport your face is photographed when you enter security. It is then linked to your passport and your boarding pass. Turnstiles and barriers magically open. But better not wear glasses, caps or even a mask. Facial recognition also works for immigration if you have a local ID which makes you feel really VIP when all foreigners have to join the non-resident/visitor cues while you just walk through.

Paperless is normal

Trains are impressive, and fast: On time, clean and organised. You travel with your passport, not a ticket. But you better have a ticket because the foreign passport does not necessarily work in the scanner. To buy a ticket, however, you need a domestic credit card. Or use an expensive agent, or better, a friend. Or you just go to the station and pay at the counter, even with your international credit card.

Classiness is normal

Business class on trains is better than First. It is the other way around than on airplanes. Business is also twice the price of First. But three times the space. (This is also true in Laos because their classless communist high speed trains are run by Chinese operators.)

Dark is normal

Sound engineering for noiseless electric vehicles to protect pedestrians is a big topic with car makers and legislators. But scooters in China are worse than cars. First, all of them seem to be electric. Then, not only are they silent, but they are also invisible at night. To save on battery energy, headlights are regularly switched off. Better be careful, they are legally considered non-motorised vehicles in China.

Extreme is normal

Ride hailing works well. Most of the cars are electric. But you might want to get your clothing right for extreme temperatures inside the car. In winter it is ice cold, in summer it is unbearably hot. Whether heating or air condition, both cost too much battery energy. Climate tech is back to where the auto industry started: Window ventilation at discretion of the driver (as the electric switches are mostly turned off).

Crispy is normal

Coming from Germany you think you know all about roast pork. But wherever you are going to eat a pork belly, the Chinese crust is my new normal. So much more crispy and meaty than even the Michelin starred baby duck in Beijing, and much more affordable.

Local is normal

Yes, there are wines in China. And yes they are drinkable. Some of them are actually very good. Like with anything a bit newer in China: winemakers got help from the best in the world to grow, cultivate, and age their grapes. If you find a good sommelier and share your interest, they will be delighted to make you taste their local treasures. But like in Switzerland, wine production capacity is constraint as most is drunken within the country. Therefore, prices are a bit high and even next door in Hong Kong, it is easier and cheaper to find good French, German or Italian rather than wines from Mainland.

Pressure is normal

Whether on the 82nd floor in Shanghai, on the 12th floor in Shenzhen or on the fourth floor in Xian, water pressure is best in class. You can get any shower to overflow within minutes. I will for sure remember this next time with a trickling hand shower in London.

Floating is normal

Speaking about water, swimming education has obviously been a challenge in China for many years. Wherever Chinese are on vacation, you see them float in pools or sit in hot tubs, obviously taking endless selfie-videos and funny group pictures. But only few of them actually swim. Many adults wear inflatable arm rings that have become a fashion accessory where the design perfectly matches the looks of the swimsuit and the legally required rubber cap.

Curlers are normal

Korea is a major inspiration for Chinese pop culture. Wearing curlers on the front of your head in public is more than a fashion statement for young ladies. It is a Gen Z expression of non-conformism. A little rebellion through what was supposed to be discreetly worn at home. Yes, this is the kind of revolution in China now, too.

Harsh is normal

At first sight, people appear harsh, but that's not against foreigners. They are not particularly warm with each other either. Most interactions may first feel transactional. Until you smile or make a silly joke to break the ice. Of course there is the language barrier, but Chinese love to laugh and they enjoy it when you do not take yourself too seriously. If you show some empathy, they will give it back: A stranger walked us to find our way through one of the biggest cities of the world. Hotel staff advanced us cash when Alipay was not working. A ticket sales man drew itineraries of our subway journey because we could not even read the names of the stations. Children were happily pointing fingers at us when you waved back because they had never seen a Western looking visitor in their young lives due to Covid. Elderly people in the countryside were amazed by Susa's curly hair and my white beard turning their heads and taking pictures.

Pride is normal

Chinese people are proud of their country. But it is less about the history of the nation than the achievements of recent years. They take real pride in the progress they experience themselves whether it is economic, personal or intellectual:

• Seeing so much less poverty in just 15 years evidenced by simple examples like water toilets everywhere, real estate development and ownership by many
• Being safer at the individual level due to a better control of corruption, more justice and better health coverage (and obviously leaving Covid behind)
• Feeling confident that the next generation will always be better educated than your own, an intrinsic curiosity to learn and an unstoppable, yet selfish willingness to succeed.

Optimism is normal

As a consequence, people are not permanently complaining. There is not much whining either. Chinese glasses are half-full, not half-empty. I was impressed by all the ambitious, internationally educated, traveled, smart and witty young professionals, I enjoyed so much to work with. And I am convinced that what most of them want, is a good normal life, in a good normal job, in a good normal country with good normal relations with the rest of the world, too.

Farewell China for now. Stay normal. Stay good. See you soon.