The Negroni Litmus Test

For years as a guest, operator, corporate leader or consultant ordering a Negroni has always been my quick and easy way to get a very reliable read on a restaurant or bar. I can quickly get a sense of their attention to detail, execution, guest engagement, brand positioning and service culture.?

Why a Negroni?

Well, first it is a classic cocktail that has the perfect balance of botanicals, bitters and sweetness. In its core a very simple cocktail, three ingredients in equal proportions. It is stirred together with ice then strained and served over fresh ice, or neat in a chilled glass with a simple orange peel garnish. Basic steps for a perfectly balanced and executed cocktail.?

Unfortunately, in my journeys I have also found that it is also one of the most incorrectly made drinks. I have been served it with no Campari, no sweet vermouth, served with a cherry, a lemon wedge, with simple syrup, grenadine, completely unbalanced and sometimes get something that looks like a Negroni but is just a mystery.?

Recently, I went to a very good upscale boutique hotel. They have a great brand story, beautiful design throughout the lobby, bar and restaurants, intriguing and appropriate messaging and perfect ambiance. The bar has a great menu of well designed crafted cocktails and a curated back bar of premium and artisan spirits. The team has great uniforms and really engages with the guest in a meaningful manner.?

As I approached the bar, the very hip and stylish bartender greeted me and asked me what I would like, as usual I ordered a Negroni to get a sense of the operation. I then asked what types of gin they would recommend. This is a great way to see if the product selection is matching the concept and if the team is knowledgeable enough able to make recommendations. He pulled over the bottles and read the names off of the premium spirits but offered little more information.?

He then proceeded to tell me about how good their local well vodka is and that I should consider this for the Negroni. I respectfully reminded him that a Negroni is made with gin, he then proceeded to down-sell me off the premium gins and into the local well gin. Which, I agreed to try. So basically, in the initial meeting my quickly forming opinion and quickly questioning his knowledge and skills particularly since he left money on the table promoting the well gin as opposed to the premium.?

He then asks if I would like cubes or a large cube, so of course I took the large cube out of curiosity. He reached into the freezer and placed a very nice large rectangular cube into the glass. However, the cube was about 1/2” too tall for the glass. So he took out the cube, placed it on?a cloth and cracked off pieces to make it fit the glass. Needless, to say another warning sign that although they had great ice no one seemed to check it would fit the glass.?

As we all know a Negroni is equal parts gin, sweet vermouth and Campari. He brings the glass over with the large ice cube, measures the well gin, then pulls the sweet vermouth out of the speed rail and measures then puts a few dashes of two different bitters. Being that sweet vermouth is a critical part of a Negroni, it should be a premium product and refrigerated. Unrefrigerated vermouth, dry or sweet,?will oxidize and degrade quickly. Now, I am thinking, “Am I missing something, does he have a new interpretation of a Negroni with unique bitters that is going to change my life?”. Then he stirs it in the glass, mists the orange peel over the drink?and places it in front of me.?

So now I am thinking, sweet vermouth was not chilled, problematic for a luxury operation. Drink was made in the serving glass, in which mixing spoon couldn’t fit into, not in a separate mixing glass and poured over fresh ice, troublesome for any operation. And he never put any Campari in the Negroni. But still I give him the benefit of doubt and I give it a taste while he is ringing the check.?

No, I was wrong, it was just a glass of gin and sweet vermouth. As he brings over the check I politely ask, “Can I get some Campari in this please?”. Which I get the, “Oh yes. bro you like it that way? Sure we can do that.”. Needless to say, next order was a glass of wine.?

Now, this is not the first time that I have ordered an Negroni and have gotten something that does not resemble the classic. Unlike many classic cocktails the Negroni stays true to form and there are not many interpretations as you would find with an Old Fashion or Margarita so it becomes a benchmark test. By ordering this simple classic cocktail with three ingredients in the same proportions we can learn volumes about the operation.

• Do they have a basic understanding of classic cocktails?
• Do the spirits align with their concept positioning?
• Is the team prepared to discuss the nuances of the premium products for an up-sell?
• If ordering a premium spirit is it being charged correctly on the check??
• Are the ingredients needing refrigeration (sweet and dry vermouth as an example) stored correctly?
• Are proper cocktail making techniques being practiced?
• Do they have the right bar tools??
• Are all components precisely measured for accuracy and a balanced cocktail?
• Is the drink presented to the guest with the right garnish in the right glass?
• What is the ice quality?
• Is there consistency from bartender to bartender?
• Is there evidence of a training program that is being followed??

Creating a great food and beverage experience is a very hard thing to do consistently whether at a luxury restaurant or neighborhood pub. The elements of a great product, engaging service, perfect ambiance and design, value for price, messaging and branding, and genuine hospitality all need to come together in a harmonized balance to connect with the guest and bring them back time after time. Do not under estimate the value of any of these components since the failure of any of them can spoil everything you are trying to accomplish.?

It’s the simple things that speak volumes without saying a word.?