Need to design ‘microbiome-friendly formulation’
The K Beauty Science Inc.
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The skin microbiome exists on the entire skin surface and has a different composition and balance for each individual, so maintaining that balance is very important. Therefore, it is necessary to design a ‘microbiome-friendly formulation’ that does not harm an individual’s unique skin microbiome.”
BASF and Daebong LS (CEO Park Jin-oh), company specializing in cosmetic materials and pharmaceutical raw materials, co-hosted ‘2024 Clean & Derma Beauty Ingredients Symposium' on March 29 at Songdo Central Park, Inchoeon Korea.
Dr. Annette Mehling (Senior manager of Skin Sciences; BTS and Eurotox registered toxicologist) emphasized the importance of microbiome-friendly formulation while introducing the influence of microbiome formulation ingredients (emollient, emulsifier).
Microbiome is sometimes used interchangeably with microbiota. If microbiota refers to a community of microorganisms, then microbiome is a community of microorganisms with distinct physical and chemical characteristics, which includes not only microorganisms but also the entire genetic material.
This symposium went beyond beauty with the slogan ‘Clean & Derma Beauty’ and presented various solutions focusing on ‘natural health of the skin’ from the perspective of next-generation holistic beauty.
Krystal Wang, Head of Market Development, Skin & Sun Care, Personal Care Solutions Asia Pacific, BASF, previously introduced 'Skincare APAC Trends 2024' where BASF chose Sophisticated Simplicity, Barrier Skincare, and Neuro-cosmetics, as the main key trends.
'Sophisticated Simplicity' refers to increasing number of consumers pursuing products with proven efficacy or functionality in simplified solution, i.e. multi-functionality in one product.
As skin care routines are simplified, one multi-product is more popular than using multiple products. Mintel, global research company, also selected ‘Sophisticated Simplicity’ as a key keyword in ‘2024 Global Beauty and Personal Care Industry Trends’.
The second keyword is ‘barrier skin care’. This is because the number of products that link healthy skin and the microbiome or that focus on strengthening or restoring the skin barrier is increasing. These products satisfy consumers' needs for building skin barrier while protecting the skin in many ways. However, these skin barrier-related cosmetics still often target dry or sensitive skin, so there is a need for light texture formulation for oily skin or humid countries such as the ASEAN region.
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The last keyword, ‘neurocosmetics’, focuses on the relationship between psychological well-being and skin health. Accordingly, the cosmetics industry is using keywords such as neurotransmitters and skin sensation from marketing point of view. Many scented cosmetics are also being launched. “BASF's Cetiol?Sensoft confirmed that humans use the same facial muscles when applying to the skin as when happy,” said Crystal Wang. “Therefore, we internally call it ‘Happy emollient,’” she explained.
In addition, BASF introduced new clean-based skin care ingredients and presented solutions through combination and synergy in the HBO (Hair, Body, Oral) field. In particular, they introduced ‘Emulgade?Verde 10 OL (INCI: polyglyceryl-10 oleate)’, which is 100% natural and manufactured through a solvent-free process. This raw material is a non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic, suitable for sensitive skin. It can be used as a main as well as auxiliary surfactant. In particular, it is suitable for low-viscosity formulations as it does not significantly affect viscosity but helps form nanoemulsions containing high oil content through smart emulsification. This raw material won the Best Emulsifier category at the ‘2024 PCHi-Fountain Award’.
In addition, Ki Gwang-guk, executive director of P&K Skin Clinical Research Center’s Strategic Planning Center, explained ‘the importance of digital transformation in the cosmetics industry.’ Director Ham Gyeong-man of Daebong LS Cosmetic Materials Division explained their clean and derma beauty materials which were developed with specialized ingredients for soothing, moisturizing, and barrier improvement through a differentiated process using vegan fermented extracts using proprietary strains discovered in Jeju. Park Eun-joo, director of Daebong LS Convergence Technology Research Institute, developed a peptide-bound nanomicelle platform technology that can selectively deliver effective drugs to skin cells through differentiated technology by applying smart peptides that regulate cell surface molecules which induce and inhibit cell differentiation.
Meanwhile, Jin-oh Park, CEO of Daebong Group, said “Korea has formed and is operating the ‘Jump Up K-Cosmetics Council’ to regulatory environment. We are improving areas that are inconvenient, unreasonable, or do not keep up with the trends of the times and science. Unfortunately, small and mid-sized companies do not actively express their opinions. As a result, circumstances mostly tilt towards those with larger voices. In the future, if there is a problem with the system, all of us should pay more interest in trying to improve regulatory environment.”
CEO Park Jin-oh also said, “The starting point of good cosmetics is the raw materials. Researchers should have the mindset to develop a good product that provide emotionally pleasant experiences. Only when consumers are satisfied, we will be able to develop an ingredient into a thriving cosmetic business.”
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