Nature: Beauty's Ingredient Agenda
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Whether nature-inspired or nature-derived, today’s cutting-edge beauty ingredient technologies deliver next-level performance and sustainability claims. Here, we examine how several key beauty categories are being reshaped by the introduction of novel materials.
6 New Ways for Sun Care to Shine
Sun care has stepped out of the shadows, becoming one of the hottest topics on Tik Tok and other social platforms. In fact, in Q1 2022, per NPD data, sunscreen sales increased by nearly 60%. Suppliers and brands have stepped up with new innovations to stand tall in this increasingly competitive sector.
1. Tackling Ultra-long UVA Rays
UVMune 400, powered by the active Mexoryl 400, is reportedly L’Oréal’s first sun-filtering technology to effectively protect the skin against ultra-long UVA rays—which, according to the company, are the 30% of solar rays that have thus far been insufficiently filtered. UVMune is designed to rectify this and thereby prevent deep sun-induced skin damage.
L’Oréal reports it took 10 years of research to design the performance engine, Mexoryl 400 filter and patent. The work has been the subject of six scientific publications. According to the company, with UVMune 400, the solar filtration range is increased by 20 nm. Notably, Mexoryl 400 also has been designed with an improved environmental profile.
UVMune 400 is now available in the La Roche-Posay Anthelios franchise, the first brand from L’Oréal to use the technology. Anthelios UVMune 400 has reportedly been shown to shield against deep cell damage, which is linked to signs of premature aging, and to prevent DNA lesions, which may lead to skin cancer. Tested on all skin types and phototypes, Anthelios UVMune 400 was launched in pharmacies in March 2022 and is available as either Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ or Hydrating Cream SPF 50+.
2. Energy-efficient UV Filters
Symrise, in partnership with Kobo, a company that specializes in powders and dispersions related to color cosmetics and mineral UV filters, has developed a mineral UV filter range and will market the cosmetic ingredients under the brand Neo Heliopan.
The range consists of two surface-treated powders—Neo Heliopan ZnO 40, which provides broad-spectrum UV protection with a focus on increasing SPF, and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300, which provides broad-spectrum UV protection with a focus on increasing the UVA-PF.
Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 form a combination for formulas focused on sun protection, such as face creams. The first of these provides effective UVB protection with a minimal white cast due to its fine particle size. The second offers balanced UVA protection due to its larger particle size.
"Formulators get considerably challenged when dispersing zinc oxide in the oil phase," said Ev Suess, global head of business unit sun protection, functionals and colors. "They need to expend a big amount of mechanical energy with crude zinc oxide. We have surface-treated our powdered form of Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300. Manufacturers can now process their products faster and with less dust."
3. Nature-derived Film Formers
Ashland’s Antaron Soja Glyceride (proposed INCI: maleated soybean oil glyceryl/octyldodecanol polymer) is a nature-derived (more than 84% natural origin content according to ISO 16128-2:2017), biodegradable water resistance film former and SPF booster for sun care formulations, which also provides transfer resistance for color cosmetics. The non-GMO, vegan technology is cold processible, enables clear formulations and has a liquid format for fast incorporation into formulations.
Antaron Soja Glyceride can be applied to natural sun care creams, lotions, gels, and color cosmetics in which it imparts a none-greasy, cushiony skin feel. The technology is also mineral-tolerant and effective across a pH range of 4-8.
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Meanwhile, Ashland’s Antaron Eco Gel (INCI: ethylcellulose (and) diisopropyl adipate) is a biodegradable, water-resistant film former for lighter, non-greasy sun care and cosmetic applications. According to the company, the technology requires less time and heat to incorporate into formulations than conventional alternatives. It also provides water resistance and improves the sustainability of sunscreens or cosmetic formulations. The active is also vegan suitable.
4. Cleanical Sun Care
Applechem’s S-Block DZ 100 PDCC zinc oxide dispersion provides an efficacious alternative to silicone-based dispersions. S-Block reportedly allows formulators to add consistent broad spectrum mineral SPF protection while moving freely between high performance silicone-based, hydrocarbon-based and clean beauty compliant emulsion and anhydrous systems. S-Block can therefore be applied to products requiring medical-grade performance.
The dispersion features a powdery smooth feeling during rub-in and helps detackify formulations without requiring additional silicone powder. It is also compatible with all emulsion and anhydrous systems and offers clinical-grade broad-spectrum protection (meets the FDA broad spectrum labeling requirements as well as EU COLIPA (UVAPF/SPF = 0.46) and Japanese PF standards (PA ++++)).
Finally, the dispersion can handle as much as 78% zinc oxide concentrations without losing viscosity or resulting in separation or settlement; this extends to shelf stability by reducing pH drift and in-packaging rising viscosity. The result, according to Applechem, is faster scale-up from lab to pilot runs to full manufacturing.
5. Multifunctional Emollient for 3-O-Free Formulations
Hallstar’s SolaFresh (INCI: diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate) is a multifunctional emollient that reportedly enhances SPF and broadens the UV absorbance spectrum with increased PFA. It can be paired with photostabilizers to achieve desirable SPF in "3-O-free" (i.e., oxybenzone and octinoxate) formulations in compliance with regulations in Hawaii and U.S. Virgin Islands.
SolaFresh reportedly has good solvency, skin emollience, high polarity and triplet-quenching properties for photostabilization. It is also an efficient photostabilizer for avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) by mechanism of triplet-triplet energy transfer.
It also has low viscosity, is odorless, has good solvency for solid UV filters and high compatibility with commonly used emollients. Its high refractive index (1.525) imparts luster and smooth appearance to end products.
6. Biodegradable Thickener for Natural Stability
Ashland’s Natrathix Bio Cellulose (INCI: cellulose gum) is a nature-derived, readily biodegradable thickener with suspension capabilities that maintains emulsion stability for skin and sun care formulations, all while delivering a desirable skin feel.
The non-GMO, vegan technology is designed to enable the creation of natural skin care creams, lotions and gels, including organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations. The versatile rheology modifier is electrolyte- and mineral-tolerant, effective across a wide pH range (4-8), cold processible and does not require neutralization.
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