Natural progression

Performance cotton brand Ventile is making strides in the footwear sector with its recycled offerings.

Like their clothing counterparts, many footwear designers and brands are on a mission to discover more sustainable and lower-impact materials than the traditionally available options – but this is easier said than done. Away from the leather-using designs, trainers and casual shoes often rely on synthetic materials to give them the performance and design characteristics, as well as the mass-manufacturing ease, that they require.?

Last autumn, Germany-based fabric fair PERFORMANCE DAYS added a footwear section for the first time, suggesting this sector has been underserved in terms of showcasing new options for uppers, soles, adhesives, midsoles and components. The trade show’s CEO, Marco Weichert , says it was a “necessary extension”. “Now finally, suppliers from the footwear sector also have the opportunity to meet decision-makers from international brands, all concentrated in one place, to present their solutions and build long-term relationships.”

At the show, HDry - Altexa srl and SCARPA scooped the Footwear Performance Award for a design focused on mountain sports with minimal seams and the membrane directly on the outer fabric. Hohenstein Group and #Lowa won in the Eco Performance Category for a 100% OekoTex certified model, despite the shoe’s more than 100 components, while Suedwolle Group won the Jury award for its 100% wool upper.

Another popular company at the show was Ventile, with its recycled fabrics receiving the 100% Jury Like. To receive the accolade, fabrics are assessed by a panel and only the few that receive the approval of every judge are awarded 100% Jury Like. Perhaps better known in the clothing sector, Ventile’s fabrics are made from extra-long staple cotton fibres, woven in such a way that they become waterproof and windproof, while remaining breathable. The winning fabrics, Ventile ECO 430 RCO and Ventile ECO 400 RCO, are produced using 100% pre-consumer recycled cotton from the apparel, home furnishing and bed-linen industries.

Eco-driven

Initially based in the UK (see panel) but now under the ownership of Switzerland-based Stotz & Co, Ventile has a long history of supplying to the military and armed forces, and moved into the outdoor sector, followed by the fashion markets, in the 1990s. In 2018, Ventile launched an Eco range, using organic cotton and recycled options, which have proved increasingly popular: in five years, the company has grown its organic cotton usage from 20% to over 50% of sales. Considering only 2% of the world’s cotton crop is classified as organic, and only 2% of that is extra-long staple, the company’s requirements can only be filled by 0.04% of global production. To help support its cultivation, last year Ventile formed a joint venture with the Egyptian Biodynamic Association to support its membership in making the transition to organic and biodynamically cultivated cotton.?

Ventile is not new to the footwear sector but is upping its focus, with brand partners including Dr Martens, Tretorn, Nike and Le Coq Sportif. In the same way brands such as Private White have done on clothing and accessories, the Dr Martens x Ventile 1460 Panel Boot displays a Ventile tag at the back of the boot – a demonstration of its brand recognition. “We are very proud when brands ask to use our logo and labels on their items; it’s a testament to the value Ventile can add,” Daniel Odermatt , Ventile’s brand director, tells World Footwear.? “In recent years, we have seen a trend of footwear partners asking for sustainable materials, including our recycled range . The way we craft our textiles means that we can offer environmentally friendly solutions without compromising on functionality, so customers can access certified all-natural fabrics whilst still getting a high-performance product that is weatherproof, windproof, water-resistant, with a PFC-free DWR, and highly breathable.”

Using cotton – and particularly recycled cotton, a shorter fibre, typically making it weaker – could be perceived as not durable enough for uppers, but Mr Odermatt confirms the fabric goes through some of the “most stringent” tests available in the textiles industry. It is placed in a tensile tear tester, which applies increasing strain in an attempt to tear it, so suitable uses can be established. “Our team works directly with designers to help them select the most suitable fabric in our range for their collection. We work with them to sample different colours, weights and blends before deciding on the best fabric for them; there are no modifications to the weave, but we do offer a bespoke colour service. We have noticed a big appetite for our recycled cotton range, with particular interest in the heavier fabrics.”

Brand collaborations

Following a slight slowdown around the pandemic, Ventile has reported a tripling of sales in six years, benefiting from an increase in demand for slow fashion, or “the antithesis of fast fashion” as it describes itself. Brands favour the history and ethos of the brand, with Dr. Martens plc ’s footwear designer Stella Makinwa commenting, “As part of our Made in England range, we like to collaborate with suppliers who manufacture products with similar core values for quality and durability. Ventile was the perfect choice with its rich heritage in performance and weather protection.” Ventile has recently signed a partnership with a US brand, which it will announce later in the year.

Performance Days is similarly building its footwear focus. The overarching theme this autumn will be Colourisation – Chemistry is Everywhere. For the first time, a dedicated central theme has been defined for the footwear sector: innovative alternatives for manufacturing waterproof shoes. Mr Odermatt comments that adding a footwear section to the show demonstrates how important it is to the wider fashion section. “I think the team behind Performance Days do an amazing job assembling functional fabrics together in one place so designers can see the latest updates and innovations on multiple collections at the same time. Creating a one-stop shop will be helpful for designers looking to source fabrics across multiple collections and seasons in one go.”

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