Natural pearls steal the show at Bonhams Fine jewellery sale in New Bond Street

By Aurélia Turrall , Jewellery Specialist

Bonhams New Bond Street held its end of year fine jewellery sale on the 5th December and achieved some spectacular results. It seemed the market is craving natural pearls after seeing these results.

This outstanding five strands of 5.55mm - 9.85mm natural pearls graduating in size towards the centre, accented by a pair of ruby and diamond floral spacers, each floral motif featuring a central old brilliant-cut diamond, issuing a radiating surround of oval-cut rubies with single-cut diamond accents, the pavé-set brilliant and single-cut diamond petals further accented by baguette-cut diamonds,?with principal old brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 1.00 carat each, remaining diamonds approximately 10.00 carats total, with floral spacers possibly converted from clips/brooches, achieved ￡343,000 including premium.

The item was accompanied by a report from SSEF laboratory stating that 247 pearls are natural, saltwater and four of the pearls are cultured and a further report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the longest strand consists of natural saltwater pearls.

This is a unique collection of well-matched natural saltwater pearls. With markets flooded by cultured and freshwater pearls it is clear there is high demand for quality pieces. But this item also included clusters of rubies.

The added value of this piece comes from the origin of those rubies: Burmese. A stone was indeed accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that one ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment. It seems to have been a sample testing to keep costs to a minimum, these reports do add up! None the less, if one random ruby tests as originating from Burma, chances are a few more, if not all will be too. Though it is a gamble to purchase this piece on the assumption that the origin is the same for all, the combination of natural saltwater and Burmese rubies is a great recipe for exceptional result at auction. It may be that this piece was bought by a private individual who simply fell in love with the piece regardless of the stones origins. Or perhaps by a dealer who will either sell the piece as is or break it into several jewels to maximise turnover. Which ever the reason for the purchase, it is certainly an investment that will see a return in the years to come, as mining becomes more strict and saltwater pearl fishing becomes increasingly limited in order to protect the environment. These moves are to be celebrated but certainly come at a cost as this piece illustrates so well.

Another star lot to have performed very well is a natural saltwater pearl and diamond ring, circa 1935.

The 9.4mm-10.1mm natural pearls, within a pierced and sculptural surround of brilliant and single-cut diamonds, with baguette and trilliant-cut diamond accents, between a reeded tapering band with pavé-set single-cut diamond shoulders, was accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory, stating that each pearl is of natural, saltwater origin. It reached ￡16,640 including premium, which again is a fantastic result for essentially two pearls. There were under 2 carats of diamonds in this ring and though gold and precious metals are at an all time high, the value in this ring lies in the pearls. They are well matched in colour and size with the same overtone colours. These factors are crucial when valuing a strand of pearl or even just two in this occasion. As the name suggests, the pearls are natural which means humans have no say in the colour of nacre or overtones the pearls turn out to be. Therefore, it takes monumental effort to scour the world in order to match what nature has so beautifully created.

To find out more about our jewellery valuation services call us on 01883 722736 or email [email protected].