Napoleon's Kashmir Connection

Napoleon's Kashmir Connection

Were you aware of a fascinating Kashmir link to Napoleon and his Wife Josephine's love story? It centers on the beautiful Pashmina Shawls, which Josephine loved and Napoleon frequently presented to her. Her pashmina shawl ended up playing a crucial role in saving her life!

This famous painting depicts Empress Josephine wearing a beautifully embroidered Pashmina shawl. Napoleon gifted it to her following his campaign in Egypt in 1798, and Josephine cherished it significantly, sparking her fondness for Pashminas. As a result, these luxurious shawls from Kashmir became highly desirable fashion items in Europe, thanks to Josephine's influence.

Portrait of pashmina shawl makers in Kashmir, 1867, Wikimedia Commons

Pashmina shawls are not just fashion statements, they are a testament to centuries of craftsmanship and tradition. Crafted from the wool of the unique Changthangi goat breed, which hails from the elevated regions of the Himalayas, these shawls have a rich history. The term 'Pashmina' is derived from the Persian word 'Pashm' meaning 'Wool'. The tradition of creating exquisite shawls in Kashmir dates back to the 15th century, gaining prominence during the reign of Sultan Zain ul Abdin. Before the 17th century, Pashmina wool shawls were natural in color - white, black, brown, or gray.

However, it later became fashionable to dye these shawls using natural dyes. Emperor Akbar introduced the intricate Sozni embroidery technique to Pashmina shawls, which required considerable time and expertise to create. These intricate Sozni shawls, some of which took up to six months to complete, were gifted to esteemed members of the Mughal court. Over time, Pashmina shawls gained popularity in Islamic courts, such as Persia, the Ottoman Empire, and Khedivate Egypt.

The tale goes that in 1798, during Napoleon's invasion of the Khedivate Kingdom of Egypt, he encountered a collection of luxurious Pashmina Shawls, which he sent to his wife Josephine in Paris. Josephine adored these shawls and wore them at social gatherings. Consequently, the elite circles of Paris took notice of Josephine's fondness for "Cachemires," the European term for Kashmiri shawls, and started to imitate her. These shawls, particularly the rectangular ones, complemented the high-waisted 'Empire style' dresses in vogue then. The square shawls were intricately woven with specific patterns to ensure alignment when folded. Moreover, they became highly sought-after wedding gifts for brides.

Interestingly, Josephine was saved from an assassination attempt on December 24, 1800, thanks to her passion for "Cachemires". This incident is documented in the book 'Memoirs of General Jean Rapp: First Aide-de-camp to Napoleon.' Napoleon and his family were on their way to the Opera in their carriages on that particular day. Josephine was wearing a stunning new shawl for the first time, catching the attention of General Rapp, who remarked on its elegance. While he was folding the shawl as Josephine requested, they heard Napoleon leaving ahead of them.

As a result of this delay, their carriage was farther behind when a bomb exploded between Napoleon and Josephine's carriages. Luckily, Napoleon and Josephine emerged unharmed from the incident, known as the "Plot of the Rue Saint-Nicaise." Despite the near-death experience, Napoleon and Josephine proceeded to the Opera and enjoyed the performance, earning admiration from many.

Josephine's affection for Pashminas endured until her passing in 1814, and numerous paintings of her adorned in a pashmina grace museums worldwide. Furthermore, Europe's fascination with Pashmina shawls persisted indefinitely. Presently, Pashmina scarves and stoles remain greatly esteemed for their sophistication and style.


Ranganathan SVN Kondala

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