At the Nantwich International Cheese Awards: Let the judging begin!

What’s it like to judge a cheese show? Not so hard, once you get the hang of it. And I’m getting the hang of it, now with two awards shows under my belt.

Via my blogs for ANCO, many of you have followed my recent travelogue to the UK. On my way to the little British town of Nantwich to judge cheeses, I had the chance to stop over and visit my great friends who just happen to be ANCO vendors. Both Wensleydale Creamery and Belton Farms spoiled me rotten, and it was so good to see them again.

With visits over, I am now down to serious business in Nantwich in my role as a judge for The International Cheese Awards. This award show, held each year in Dorfold Park, represents the world’s most important cheese event both in the UK and on a global level.

Like many of those in town for the Nantwich International Cheese Awards, I am staying at the quaint and creaky Crown Hotel

Located on a cobblestone street at the center of town, this timber-framed, black-and-white hotel and pub has sat in place on the high street in Nantwich since 1583. You read that correctly. The 16th century.

The existing hotel was built on the site of an even earlier inn of the same name, destroyed in the Great Fire of Nantwich. It’s full of history; on December 19th, 1572, landlord Roger Crockett was murdered in a brawl in the pub. The Duke of Monmouth dined at the Crown in 1682. And it’s said that the site was once the location of Nantwich Castle.

There is, of course, no elevator

The rickety upper stair rail and uneven floors made for some interesting navigation. But I loved it; the food and the atmosphere are great, and we were well taken care of by a friendly and efficient staff. I enjoyed dinner and a fun evening with colleagues, and the next morning we were off to the show.

So, what do you need to become a cheese judge?

Aside from a thorough knowledge of cheese production -- and the support of a great company like ANCO -- you need a lab coat, comfortable shoes and a little gadget called a “cheese trier.”

The cheese trier is used for testing cheeses without cutting them open. Most are made from stainless steel, and measure about four inches long. Judges (and anyone who needs to test the cheese) plunge the trier into the cheese and remove a sample. Judges evaluate the cheese for appearance, taste and texture and the remaining piece is then returned to the cheese so the aging process can continue.

Obviously, the trier needs to be sanitized well before use and the opening around the plug also needs to be sealed with a smear of the cheese sample to prevent mold from entering the cheese body.

Remove your sample, inhale and take a good whiff

Cheddars have a range of aromas, but the key is balance – no one aroma should overpower the others. Give the cheddar a good looking over. The appearance should be consistent and smooth.

Pass a knife through. Cheddar styles range from smooth to dry. Generally a smooth cheddar is easier to slice. Pinch the cheese between your thumb and index finger. Younger cheese will be a bit springy while an aged cheese can become crumbly. Take a small bite, and look for balanced taste and “mouthfeel.” That’s cheese talk for how the texture of the cheese feels in your mouth.

When judging cheese shows, use the correct terminology

Here are a few samples of descriptors we use when we talk about cheeses we are judging:

TASTE: sharp, tart, creamy, autolyzed (cheddars), mellow, buttery, rich, tangy, spicy, herbal, earthy, nutty, salty, peppery, pungent

MOUTHFEEL: creamy, smooth, semi-fluid, crumbly, hard, satiny, chewy, dense or firm, elastic, crumbly, soft, waxy, grainy, chalky

AGE: young, middle-aged, aged, ripened, cured

COLOR: white, yellow, gold, straw, butter, orange, blue-marbled, green-marbled, ivory

This year over 300 cheese experts judged a record 5,685 cheese and dairy entries, all within five hours! Head judge Dai Williams said the standard was exceptionally high and was a very close-run competition for the top awards.

The winner, 2017 ICA Supreme Champion and proud new holder of The National Westminster Cup is a sheep’s milk blue cheese from Papillon, Roquefort Revelation from France.

Congrats, Roquefort Revelation! Nantwich, hope to see you again next year!

For more information on the life of a cheese judge, contact me at ANCO, [email protected]