Nagaur: The famous Restored Fort of the Marwar Jodhpur Family in Rajasthan
By Aline Dobbie
Exactly a year ago today my family and I were driven from Jaipur to Nagaur to stay in and explore this now legendary fort. We had arrived in Delhi on the 30th June in the hottest of weather, but as I have explained in a previous article, we had to come then to use the grandchildren’s long summer holiday in Scotland for a whole three weeks. After three nights at The sumptuous Imperial Hotel in Delhi, we had been to Samode Palace, then Samode Haveli and now we were on our way - it is a long way from Jaipur and ordinarily I would suggest travellers go to Nagaur from Jodhpur on the very good straight road which takes at the most two hours. This was how we continued on our journey at the end of too short a visit to stay in Jodhpur at Balsamand Lake Palace.
It was a relief to arrive and my goodness, what a wonderful warm welcome we were given, with garlands and bangles and cool drinks and towels. The place looked so fascinating and enticing in its vastness, right there in the centre of this desert town. At first, we were taken to see which suites we would wish to occupy. This is a heritage property and the extremely comfortable suites are configured out of the Ranvas – the ranis’ living quarters of many centuries ago. Needless to say, the three grandchildren were intrigued and enchanted, and we adults fixed on one particular ranvas which has three suites. The first thing was to change and jump into the inviting pool – oh was that welcome on that blistering sunny afternoon to splash around and look around and consider what we would do next.
Lying back in the charming pool – not blue or green, but sensitively constructed in terracotta shade I looked up to hear peacocks, saw the bee-eaters swinging on a branch, heard the doves and it all was so worthwhile to have come on a long journey and brought my family. Followed by a most sumptuous high tea which was devoured by us all and in particular the hungry trio, we were asked what we might wish for dinner. This was agreed upon and with a plea for some ras malai and jalebis if at all possible!
Then we went to see the various heritage areas of the great fort as the local historian guide had remained behind to give us this tour before the public rooms were shut for the night. It is a truly fascinating place and I describe it below because it is of such worth that it deserves and needs careful detail.
Ahhichatragarh (Nagaur Fort)
Nagaur is located on the arid plains of central Rajasthan, half way between Jaipur and Jaisalmer, if one wanders through the maze of streets, the markets and narrow lanes and with a view of the fort – it becomes evident that this is no ordinary town, but a unique medieval tapestry, created over several hundred years.
To unravel the secret of Nagaur one must travel back in time. More than eight hundred years ago Nagaur grew in importance as traders passed by on their arduous journey across the great Indian Thar desert carrying their precious cargo to Multan and Sind in Pakistan. Weary travellers, armies, and generals, having crossed the desert from the west, embarked from Nagaur on their weeks long march to Delhi and the hinterland of India. Nagaur became an oasis beside the desert, a resting-place for the body and for the soul. It is recorded in history that the first walls of this Fort came up in the 4th century and was a mud fort at that time built by then the Nagavanshi Kings, making it one of the oldest Forts in the country. However, the major developments at Nagaur that stand testimony to its historic significance took place in the 12th and 16th century. Nagaur during this period also became the abode of famous Sufi saints and several mosques and tombs were built around the Fort. These monuments are important, rare examples of pre-Mughal architecture of the provinces. The most famous of them being in the 14th century, a Mosque of Khwaha Makhdum Husain Naguri Chisti. Many famous Kings and Emperors have ruled over Nagaur. The recorded history speaks of Muhammad bin Tughluq, Maldev of Marwar, Humayun, Shah Jahan, Ghazni, Ghori, Sher Shah Suri, the great Prithvi Raj Chauhan, and Emperor Akbar.
Having passed through several dynasties to the Mughals, Ahhichatrgarh came to the maharajas of Jodhpur in the 17th century, with whom it remains today. It has taken 20 years and the dedicated vision of His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Marwar – Jodhpur, along with the Mehrangarh Museum Trust, the Getty Foundation USA, and the Helen Hamlyn Trust to meticulously renovate and restore Ahhichatragarh.
It is the recipient of a UNESCO award for pioneering new conservation standards by combining modern scientific techniques while upholding traditional building methods. There is justifiable pride in stating that The Nagaur Fort has won in 2002 the prestigious UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation as well as the Domus Restoration and Preservation award for these efforts. Nagaur records not only the passage of time but also its contact with the great cultures of north and north-western parts of the Indian sub-continent. You find this inclusiveness in its architecture where you find the influence of Gujarat, Persian, Rajput and the Multan and Afghanistan region. A stay in this fort takes you back in time and a walk down the avenues of the past.
To further explain, in the early 1990s, Mehrangarh Museum Trust took on the additional responsibility of the 12th century fort. This had been taken over by the Government post-independence, and was in a bad condition, having served as a barracks for the Border Security Force. Massive restoration work was required when HH Maharaja Gaj Singh II regained it. The Trust received support from the Getty Foundation and British-based Helen Hamlyn Trust. Today, Nagaur is not only the recipient of numerous awards, but is the centre of a joint wall painting conservation project with the Courtauld Institute, London and serves as the venue for many conferences and seminars related to conservation, gardens, and other relevant concerns.
Ranvas – Nagaur
Within the magnificent Nagaur Fort lies an 18th Century Residence of the Ranis of Maharaja Bakhat Singh of Jodhpur, which have been meticulously restored to offer elegant accommodation within these ten Havelis. The restoration work pioneered new conservation standards by combining modern scientific techniques while upholding traditional building methods. Ranvas is an astonishing combination of historic and modern facilities. Although connected by common walls, each of the havelis is self-sufficient and independent. Simple facades of havelis open a different world once you step inside. Sensitively designed interior spaces with the swing, the lounge beds, the sculptures, the traditional textile prints & furniture make them extremely comfortable but also intriguing and yes, there is air conditioning!
That evening after the tour of all the reconditioned interiors and exterior places suddenly we had the most astounding electric thunderstorm which added an extra dimension to the whole place with a sense of drama that intrigued the grandchildren. The peacocks sought refuge in the trees beyond the walls and the place became tranquil and calm after the storm.
We had the most delicious dinner which include safed maas and other delights with a cocktail or two for the adults, and then the splendid ras malai and jalebis which thrilled the children – as well as me!
Bed called but, in the dawn, there was the sound of the peacocks and I was up and on my bathroom terrace to spy them. This was followed by an early morning swim with an excellent tray of bedside tea brought to the pool – well what could be more beautiful? Even the grandchildren were a bit astounded at my ‘early bird activity’. Breakfast was on the terrace with strategically placed standing fans. We ordered mangoes, and mangoes and mangoes, followed by omelettes and toast and tea – I think there was also some fresh juice.
All too soon it was time for our farewell, I asked the Staff to join me for a photograph and was amused at all the people that appeared for a happy memory, then we took our transport to the outer walls to see the baori or stepwell and had to be cautious as there was a huge swarm of bees nearby. Finally we said thank you and phir milengi, but I know I would like to return for at least two nights at a cooler time of the year when one could take time to appreciate the enormous feat of restoration on this magnificent place. I suggest a visit from Jodhpur, and one could stop for a refreshment at Khimsar Palace and Fort on the way up to break the journey. As for the Sacred Spirit Festival well, that would be a plus! I have enormous respect for Gaj Singh II and the Team who gave us all back this amazing place in beautiful conserved condition. Custodianship of India's great heritage is vital work.
Sacred Spirit Festival – Nagaur
The Sacred Spirit Festival, unique in India, welcomes the most beautiful of sacred traditions from the Orient, the East and Africa, while showing off the wealth of Rajasthan's traditional heritage. The festival at Nagaur is exclusive, private, and only accessible to the resident guests of Nagaur Fort (Ranvas & Royal Tents). It is held annually in mid-February and it is hoped to have the Festival take place again in 2021 post Covid.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aB1tvADQ9WkNK58k9 Aline Dobbie gallery of Nagaur Fort July 2019
https://www.worldsacredspiritfestival.org
Jodhana Heritage Resorts +91 292 2572321 to 26
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4 年Well it is an awesome place and recommend