Mysteries of the Bhool Bhulaiya

In the heart of Lucknow lies the impressive Bada Imambara, which is home to the famous Bhool Bhulaiya – a complex and captivating labyrinth that has fascinated travelers and architects for more than two centuries. Commissioned by the visionary Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowhala in 1784 during a severe drought, this architectural wonder was not just a building; it was a symbol of hope, offering employment to the underprivileged and evolving into a symbol of Lucknow's grandeur.

The term 'Bhool Bhulaiya,' challenging to translate directly, signifies getting lost in its maze-like corridors without a clear path. To fully understand Bhool Bhulaiya, one must explore the history of its creators – the Nawabs. During a recent visit to Lucknow, I discovered the true nature of these mysterious rulers, shattering my previous notion of their relationship with the Mughals near Delhi.

Originating from the Persian word 'Naib,' which means Deputy, the title 'Nawab' was granted by the Mughals in North India to their deputies. Exclusively used for males, its female equivalent was 'begum,' with notable figures like 'Begum Nazrat Mahal.' Despite a decline post the 1857 mutiny, Nawabs retained the title as a family honor, a tradition still evident in modern Lucknow, albeit with reduced authority and resources.

The historical tale of Bhool Bhulaiya intricately weaves with the Bada Imambara. In the late 18th century, amidst the severe drought in Avadh, Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowhala initiated the Bada Imambara's construction, similar to the current Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (MGNREGA), to provide employment. This charitable act mirrors structures like the Aga Khan Palace in Pune, constructed with a similar intent.

While Persian architects are often credited with the Bada Imambara's design, it was actually conceived by Hafiz Kifayatullah from Shahjahanabad. Construction began in 1784 and concluded after fourteen years. Architects faced a significant challenge – creating a column-free Central Hall for prayers without traditional columns supporting the dome and ceiling load.

To reduce the weight, the innovative architect hollowed out the ceiling, leading to the complex Bhool Bhulaiya maze within the Imambara. With around a thousand interconnected passageways that loop back on each other instead of leading to exits, navigating the maze can be confusing and time-consuming, with some paths ending in windows or ascending towards the ceiling.

Even as an adult, memories of childhood tales about people losing their way in the maze lingered. Guided by an expert, I embarked on a journey through the area.