My Weekend Getaway to the Edge of Civilization: 5 Must-Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

The Edge of Civilization

Karpasia is home to the most secluded beaches on the island of Cyprus. It has been declared a protected site of great importance for its unique natural beauty. It is home to the national park, the famous golden beach which is arguably the best beach on the island, and important historic religious sites.

Geographically situated at the northeastern tip of the island, Karpasia is often referred to by locals as the ‘tail’ of Cyprus, a descriptor made evident by the map below.

Karpasia, is a unique place that due to its protected status is detached from civilization. It is purposefully devoid of clutter and almost gives the sensation of being at the edge of civilization. It stands in stark contrast to the bustling cities and developed regions of the country, offering unparalleled tranquility and natural beauty. Most of the year there is not a single person in sight, where one can enjoy the cleanest beaches, endless waters and skies, and the warm bright sun shimmering. Away from the noise and distractions of modern life, one can enjoy this secluded place where the land ends and the vast waters begin. The place feels like heaven with nature in full force, it is very quiet with a faint sound of waters washing up to the shore. Visitors are welcome to embrace this nature running at its full course, remoteness, isolation, and untouched beauty.

My Weekend Getaway to Karpasia

We booked a weekend trip to Seabird with my girlfriends, sister, and mother in September 2023. Over the past decade, Karpasia, as a protected site, has undergone a transformation. Wood cabins and caravans have been removed, allowing nature to reclaim its pristine status. This restoration aims to preserve the area’s natural habitat and diverse species of flora and fauna. The aim is to preserve the natural habitat and variety of flora and fauna species living here. The only buildings that were left behind are the historically protected ones.

Some of these are historical religious buildings and some others are surviving buildings from long-gone civilizations. Seabird is the establishment that with government support, transformed two of these buildings into bed and breakfast establishments, meanwhile ensuring they kept their original specifications. Due to the limited availability (of these establishments), reservations must be made almost a year in advance. Otherwise, securing an available room can be quite challenging.

Road Trip, Friday Morning

Early Friday morning, we departed from Kyrenia and began the journey of roughly a 5-hour drive to Karpasia, following the coastal road to the north. We made a few stops along the way, one of which was to a village coffee shop where traditionally villagers would socialize, which is a tradition rarely still surviving today. Karpasia is one of the few villages in Cyprus that is still mixed in terms of the language origins of Cypriot populations. Both Cypriots from two different linguistic families live in harmony. It was a hot September day, and most of the ride was filled with chatter and laughter. The drive was lovely with views of the calm Mediterranean Sea, golden fields, and blue skies.

5 Must-Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

– #1. Feeding The Wild Donkeys

The Infamous Karpsia Donkeys

Even before we arrived at Karpasia National Park, we started spotting the wild donkeys in the fields that we drove by. They looked so cute! Well for me at least as I discovered shortly after that my mom has a strong phobia of them. As is typical in Karpasia, upon reaching the entrance of the national park, we were greeted by two donkeys on either side of the gates. These friendly creatures eagerly awaited their well-deserved treats, which visitors offer in exchange for their diligent work guarding the park. Carrots and apples were their preferred currency. The more we drove, the more of them kept approaching us, their curious antics brought smiles to our faces. We spotted some foals (baby donkeys) beside their mothers and some soon-to-be mamas with their massive bellies. Some had light colors and some darker, some ran after our car with the hopes to get a bit more of the sweet stuff. They got used to approaching people to grab their attention, hence a few of their tricks were expected, nevertheless we were still entertained. Driven by our excitement and, admittedly, our lack of planning, we quickly depleted our supply of treats after encountering the group with the foals. For the remainder of the trip, we endured the disappointed stares of donkeys who had missed out on their share of treats.

While the donkeys steal the show with their endearing presence, they are just one aspect of the diverse ecosystem that makes Karpasia National Park a protected area. Endangered sea turtles, endemic flora, and fauna all contribute to the park’s rich biodiversity.

Read more about the native animals of North Cyprus.

Getting Settled

Upon arrival, we parked and took a moment to soak in the views and the scent of the salty seawater. After checking in, we ordered a delicious platter of freshly caught calamari that melted in our mouths like butter.

The long drive and calorie-dense holiday food left us feeling tired, so we each retreated to our rooms to rest in the historic stone houses. I drifted into a sweet nap while indulging in my guilty pleasure: reading the works of the Irish writer Marian Keyes, whose humor I find delightful. Her humor resonates with me, and I occasionally indulge in the drama of her stories.

5 Must-Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

– #2. Visiting The Best Beaches in Cyprus

Down To the Beach

Upon awakening, I decided to take a swim, so I strolled down the alleyway to reach the beach. Although it was 5 PM, it still felt like daytime as the summer sun didn’t set until around 9 PM. While there, I felt a profound sense of solitude, as if the world revolved solely around me. It was a very calming feeling, an absolute bliss. As it was the afternoon the water was warm, and the natural horseshoe shape of the beach served as effective wave breakers. From one end, I could see the historic accommodations where I was staying, and from the other end, the Apostolos Andreas Monastery stood in all its glory.

The white sand was so soft, and the water was so translucent. I looked up to the sky with the sun burning my salty eyes, it was a bright blue without a single cloud sight. Following my swim, I took a stroll along the beach, accompanied by a donkey on my journey back. I couldn’t help but ponder the chain of events that led to its current; peaceful and comfortable life in the park.

The Story of The Wild Donkeys in Karpasia

The wild donkeys of Karpasia were not always wild. These herbivores were not always native to this region. Donkeys served as the primary mode of transportation in the villages, where farming and agriculture were prevalent. When nearby villages were abandoned, the donkeys were left behind. They eventually found their freedom in this area, where abundant wild flora and the absence of predators allowed them to begin a decades-long journey of population growth on this part of the island. With no one to disturb their peace, they thrived and multiplied.

Eventually, their numbers grew to a considerable size and they were accepted as a local herd, receiving protected status. There was strong tourist interest in them in the 80s, so the need for rules and restrictions was essentially brought about. That is when the national park was established.

In addition to the attention that the donkeys were receiving, there was also some concern regarding the endemic flora in this region that has been the feast of this smart donkey population. Ongoing conservation efforts aim to address these concerns. Initially, efforts focused on reducing the influx of tourists who brought surplus treats during the summer months, partly enabling the rapid increase in the donkey population. This population, then had to rely on the local flora for their diet during the winter months. Part of the restrictions achieved reducing the tourist numbers by removing holiday cabins, thereby reducing foot traffic. Currently, donkeys remain the local residents of this region, enjoying a life undisturbed.

5 Must Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

– #3. Indulging in The Delicious Food

Dinner Time, Friday Evening

The sun, swimming, and walking made me hungry, I went back up to my accommodation, took a shower, and joined my friends for dinner. The food was so fresh and full of flavor. We were served a platter of freshly caught and grilled fish and calamari drizzled with the Cypriot lemons. There were wild sea bass (kaya levregi), umbra (minekop), white grouper (lahos), yellowbelly grouper (orfoz), and bogues (voppa/ kupes). Our table was adorned with local mezes (tapas) that complemented the fish perfectly. These included the local salad, hummus, green olives garnished with coriander seeds, a delicious calamari dip, and a variety of beans, zucchinis, and beetroot.

Needless to say, we thoroughly enjoyed our meal, lingering over dinner before engaging in card games and chit-chat before bed under the beautiful night sky full of stars…

5 Must-Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

– #4. Visiting The Holy Sites

Apostolos Andreas Monastery, Saturday Morning

The next morning we had our breakfast together. My sister and I then left to visit the Apostolos Andreas Monastery while the rest of our group headed down to the beach.

Apostolos Ayios Andreas Monastery is the most important Orthodox Church and holy site in Cyprus and arguably the Eastern Mediterranean. Named after St. Andrew, who was a follower of John the Baptist and the first to be called by Jesus Christ to spread Christianity. The monastery dates back to the 1740s. The monastery is home to a bilingual (Greek and Turkic) resident priest, whom we had the opportunity to meet in person and who conducts the Sunday service.

Thanks to several legends, this place gained renown for its purported healing powers attributed to its fresh running water. Visitors come here to pray for cures for various illnesses and to seek help with infertility. For this reason, you will find candles in the shapes of babies, ears, etc. as visitors light candles when they are making a wish in the shape of what they are praying for. Orthodox Christians make pilgrimages here twice a year, on the 15th of August for the Dormition of the Mother of God, and on the 30th of November for Saint Andrew’s Day.

• Legend of Apostle St Andrews: St. Andrew saved a captain stranded in nearby waters from thirst by guiding him to a spring at Cape Anderas. In gratitude, the captain gifted an icon, which became the foundation of the monastery, and St. Andrew became the patron saint of seafarers.

• The holy well: Beneath the main church lies a 15th-century crypt-chapel where the apostle’s holy well flows beneath a stone cover. Esteemed for its therapeutic properties, locals collect this water from taps at sea level behind the monastery.

• The legend of healing properties: The tradition of popular pilgrimage stems from the legend of Maria Georgiou, an Anatolian Greek whose young son was kidnapped in 1895. Seventeen years later, she had a dream in which the apostle commanded her to pray for her son’s return to the monastery. Subsequently, she was reunited with her son, and although the actual reunion occurred through word of mouth, the general belief is that the holy monastery set things in motion. Further legends suggest that this location brings relief to prayers for epilepsy, blindness, and paralysis.

Our visit was pleasant, and we had a brief chat with the priest, lit candles, made our wishes, and offered prayers. Much of the church had undergone recent renovations, resulting in a strong white contrast against the blue backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea.

Shopping

Close to the church was a line of trinket stalls, and a snack bar at the very end of it selling fruits, ice cream, and drinks. Most of the stalls had typical souvenirs of figurines, handmade local crafts, magnets, jewelry, etc. Earlier that summer I was gifted a pair of pink pearl earrings from a trip to the Balkans, and in these stalls, I happened to spot a matching necklace. Without hesitation, I purchased it, and after some shopping, we returned to our accommodation to rest, exhausted by the hot weather. Although we initially planned to visit the Panagia Kanakaria Church, we decided to save it for another time.

Panagia Kanakaria Church is a pretty structure but due to the hot weather, being even a little away from the beach was insufferable at these high temperatures. However, I still would like to give it a brief mention. It was built on the site of a Christian basilica in the 5th century.

“The original mosaic which decorated its apse depicted Christ as a child sitting on the lap of the Virgin Mary attended by two archangels, and surrounded by a frieze of apostles. Its part, which shows Christ the Child, an archangel, St. James and St. Matthew, was split into four pieces and stolen. The mosaics were later traced in the USA and recovered by the Catholic Church of Cyprus. The mosaic was made in A.D. 525-50 and is one of the only six or seven mosaic specimens which were able to survive up to the present day from the Byzantine Iconoclastic period.”

I Was Startled

Tired from the hot day, I drifted into a delicious nap in our historic stone house. Upon awakening, I realized people were watching me, shading their eyes and peering through the window. I was so startled that it took me a moment to regain my composure. It turned out that a German tourist bus had made a lunch stop, and the passengers were curious to explore what they likely assumed were historic religious landmarks, given the proximity of the Apostolos Andreas Monastery. It turned out that a German tourist bus had made a lunch stop, and the passengers were curious to explore what they likely assumed were historic religious landmarks, given the proximity of the Apostolos Andreas Monastery. I jest, but in reality, I was genuinely startled. Later, I went to the same window to investigate, and fortunately, I realized they couldn’t see much due to the sun’s reflections. To this day, I still find it amusing that a busload of people appeared and by then in less than 24 hours I got so used to not having people around in Karpasia that it felt very unfamiliar for a moment.

Golden Beach

In the afternoon, I took a short trip to the Golden Beach of Karpasia. This arguably is the best beach on the island and is part of the protected site. Simply visiting this long, white sand beach is enough to leave you breathless; even the light seems to shine differently here. The beach is home to Green turtles (loggerheads) and caretta carettas (endangered), which are the focus of conservation efforts. These can get to a massive size, and it is really mesmerizing to observe them. When I was a teenager, I used to volunteer with the society SPOT which is working in collaboration with Exeter (UK) University to protect these beautiful creatures and facilitate their number’s increase.

There are a few rules that visitors should follow, for example, these creatures come ashore at night to lay their eggs, and then follow the moonlight their way back to the water. Any light around them would be a distraction and they can end up in the wrong way, possibly getting injured or killed. Thus, during the nesting season, turtle beaches like Golden Beach and Alagadi Beach are off-limits to visitors between 8PM and 8AM. Following the nesting the nests are identified and protected by white cages to deter daytime visitors from potentially stepping on them or to an extent protect them from predators like foxes or dogs.

So, a few takeaways are that watch for signs for closing times, mind the cages, and not bring your pets during the turtle breeding season. During September visitors can book a guided trip from SPOT to watch the little turtles hatch their eggs and find their way back to the water. Makes for a beautiful show to watch their first-ever steps into their new lives.

SPOT Conservation team can be reached through this link.

For the adventurous, diving on this beach is a colorful experience. Marine life is rich and even snorkeling will reveal a whole new ecosystem. Though I didn’t have the chance to dive on this trip, I tried it years ago and still vividly remember the experience.

Upon returning to our accommodation, the rest of the night unfolded much like Friday evening. We concluded our last night in Karpasia by gazing at the shimmering stars and the full display of our galaxy.

5 Must-Try Experiences at Karpasia, Cyprus

– #5. Visiting The Karpaz Gate Marina

Karpaz Gate Marina, Sunday Noon

The next morning was our final day and we decided to have an early start to make the most of our time on the road. We skipped the breakfast at the place, checked out, and headed down to the beach. We spent a few more hours soaking up the sun and enjoying the calming waters.

Afterwards, we made our way to Karpaz Gate Marina for a lovely brunch. I was already very hungry from swimming and was in desperate need of a strong coffee. We placed our orders. I was indecisive, so I ordered a few different things and ended up loving my smoked salmon sandwich the most. It had cream cheese and dill but, I think it was the sourdough bread with walnuts that truly won me over.

After satisfying my hunger, I indulged in the sight of the beautiful yachts while enjoying a live piano performance. Oh, I almost forgot about the people-watching, which turned out to be the highlight of the experience—everyone looked so adorable and fashionable! This was a perfect conclusion to our holiday, and I am already eagerly anticipating my return next year!

Read more about the Karpaz Gate Marina.

Nearby Living

Karpasia is a no-development zone. However, for the ones who wish to live nearby to Golden Beach and this peaceful location, there is a lovely alternative nearby.

Following the removal of hotels from Karpasia, the government unveiled the Bafra Strip Tourism Masterplan. Bafra is also home to beautiful beaches and for the most part, is a zone without residential complexes. This zone is dedicated to hotel resorts. The Government plans to enable fourteen 7-star hotels adjacent to one another on this strip dedicated to tourism.

Four of these are already completed and in operation which are Concorde, Limak Deluxe, Noah’s Ark, and Kaya Artemis. Each of these hotels boasts its section of the beach, along with numerous amenities, high-end restaurants, entertainment options, and a variety of relaxation and rejuvenation services.

At the very end of this strip lies an unlikely residential complex, that stands out from its neighbors. Situated on the peninsula of the Bafra Strip is the Thalassa residential gated community. Permits for the construction of this resort were acquired long before Karpaz gained its National Park status and Bafra was designated for tourism only. Consequently, it remains a distinctive destination where individuals choose to relocate for a slower pace of life, maintain a holiday home for occasional serene getaways, or invest for rental returns.

See what is available in this residential gated community. Get in touch with me by responding to this email to discuss these available options.

Sincerely,

Soylem Coli

Local Real Estate Expert

21 Feb 2024

Email: ?? [email protected]

Phone: ?? +90 533 864 1652

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