My tryst with the mountains of Kashmir

With every trip I’ve embarked on, I always come back with a great story. And here begins, one such story that I decided to take with a group of strangers, I’d come to address as friends at the end of my trip. On the first day, We decided to head to Gulmarg, which is one of the most picturesque places in the country. The trees that look barren also look pretty , everything about Kashmir oozes romance and serenity.

As we get closer to the destination, our driver gave us all the right pointers, so that we do not over indulge in all those rides up there. We decided to let our inner child call the shots for the day, and got on a sledge. We were dragged on the sledge to the top of the mountain so that we can get on the gondola ride, which is a cable car. As we made our way to the top, I was blinded by the snow. And yes it was that bright. I felt a bit adventurous, so I thought let's give skiing a shot. It was a laugh riot, to watch your? friend fall flat on his back and grudgingly get back up on the slide. All that sport, made me hungry , so off I went to a dhaba and got some Kashmiri pulao and Dum Aloo.?

On the second day, I woke up to a verandah covered with snow. My day starts off with a good and hearty breakfast. We decide to take a “Shikara” down the dal lake. I started chatting with the oarsman, who goes onto explain about the mysteries of Kashmir. We speak about the rich and famous who come down here and spend their time on these majestic houseboats, to replenish and get back to the hubbub of the city life. He stops to make small conversations with us and then starts crooning away. I try my luck at comprehending Kashmiri. But, the language has it's own roots. Hence, I accept defeat and I take notice of the scenery. The beautiful mountain that draws your eyes behind the dal lake is stunning, breathtaking I would say and it literally is because of the drop in temperature. Upon seeing my plight, the oarsman offered his “Winter wife”, which is an earthen pot with burning coal to combat the cold. I graciously accepted it and vow to never let it go. We stop to get some beverages on the middle of dal lake, we were greeted with some Khawa, which had everything to stir up an appetite. What more can I ask for with Waheeda Rahman’s “Aaj Jane ki zid na karo” playing in the background and a khawa on the dal lake ?

Finally, we made our way to the boat house, greeted by an elderly man, who listens to Stevie wonder. As we all huddle around the boiler, to keep ourselves warm, he and I spoke about love, he was of the opinion that our generation has forgotten what it is to be in love. Being an eternal optimist, I staunchly disagreed and told him I’d prove him otherwise. Will I or Will I not is a question I have not found an answer to yet. After having a good night's rest, we decided it's time to set out another adventure. As I'm typing this, we are heading towards Pahalgam. For a tourist, Kashmir is all about the beauty and splendour. As I sit mesmerized by the view, the city does have an eerie silence to it. The CRPF guards that are posted within every 10 meters, sporting a rifle sends out a rather dreadful message. You cannot miss the barbed wire that is present almost everywhere. This is a city that has seen a lot of blood and violence, and there is a constant reminder that there is a sign of rebellion, it maybe quiet, but there is a seething and simmering hatred building towards the ruling government. In my conversations with the locals, I sense their agony, anger and pain. Theirs is the voice that needs to heard and acted on. In the battle between the countries, one often neglects the common man. With that thought, I head to bed hoping for brighter days for the people of Kashmir.?

As I finish off a hot omelette and gulp some tea, I wonder how my last day on is going to turn out. Never did I know, the day would hold such memorable memories for a lifetime. And like the rest of Kashmir, Pahalgam welcomes me with It's snow. Never have I once rode a horse in my 25 years of existence. Who knew I'd get to do that in Kashmir ? We get 6 horses for each of us, and I get Riza, the most fastest one or so I was told. The ride up the twisty mountains was nothing short of an adventure. I couldn't believe my eyes, as I thought I was in Narnia. We rode our way to "Mini Switzerland", which was perfectly named. It started snowing on our way up, and I have never experienced that kind of euphoria. And ofcourse, I had my fun , looking at my room mate struggle to find his balance on a playful horse. I couldn’t resist myself from throwing a snowball at my friend, and that turned would be the beginning of a full fledged snowball fight. Before it got too dark, we were ushered back to our respective horses.?

Finally, we reached the foot of the hill, amidst all that fun, I didn't realise that the temperature had dropped drastically. Thankfully, We came across a stall, that was selling Maggi. And let me tell you, Maggi after a trek up the mountain, tastes divine. The snow and the cold had taken a toll on us, and all we wanted was to get to the comfort of our warm rooms.?

As all farewells go, bidding goodbye to Kashmir was also tough. But one day, I’d like to return to a Kashmir, that retains all it's beauty and also has found peace.?