My Travel Series in China 9: Exploring the Mysteries of the Forbidden City

Introduction: The Importance and Location of the Forbidden City

The Forbidden City, adjacent to Tiananmen Square, is a must-visit destination for those exploring Beijing. Once the residence and office of emperors from the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1636–1912), it has now been renamed the Palace Museum and is open to the public.

Transportation Convenience and Personal Interest

With its excellent transportation accessibility, I can conveniently reach the Forbidden City from my home in just a 50-minute subway ride. However, I seldom visited the site due to its lack of trees and lakes. The Forbidden City primarily consists of palaces and was not the preferred residence for the emperors of that era. Instead, the Qing Dynasty emperors chose to live on the outskirts of Beijing, particularly in the Summer Palace and Yuanmingyuan, where they could enjoy scenic landscapes of mountains, rivers, and pleasant surroundings.

Construction History and Expansions

Initially constructed during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty in AD 1406, the Forbidden City underwent multiple expansions and now encompasses over 980 buildings. It is divided into two sections: the outer court and the inner court.

The Outer Court: Government Activity Area

The outer court served as the official government activity area during the Ming and Qing dynasties, housing three main halls: The Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Central Harmony, and the Hall of Preserving Harmony. Among them, the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the largest, hosted grand celebrations such as enthronement ceremonies, weddings, and the canonization of the queen.

The Inner Court: Residence of the Emperor

On the other hand, the inner court functioned as the residence for the emperor and his family. The Hall of Mental Cultivation served as the actual residence for the Qing emperors within the Forbidden City. It also housed thrones and imperial cases, where the emperor would handle daily government affairs and receive ministers. The Palace of Heavenly Purity, the largest building in the inner court, used to be the emperor's living quarters, while the Six Western and Six Eastern Palaces served as the living quarters for concubines.

The Golden Mean and the Forbidden City

The layout of the Forbidden City fully embodies Chinese Confucianism, which advocates "The Doctrine of the Golden Mean." In Confucianism, the golden mean, or the doctrine of the mean, is understood as a primary virtue. The golden mean represents the desirable middle ground between two extremes: one of excess and the other of deficiency. For instance, courage, being a virtue, can be excessive, leading to recklessness, or deficient, resulting in cowardice. Located on the central axis of Beijing, the Forbidden City is distributed with perfect symmetry. However, despite its architecturally "moderate" nature, the people who resided there were not necessarily characterized by moderation.

Untold Stories and Contradictions

Life in the palace was far from the paradise people imagined, and the realities of what happened there often exceeded people's imaginations. For example, during the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Jiajing (1507–1567) mistreated palace ladies, frequently subjecting them to whippings due to his volatile temper. One day in 1542, a dozen young court ladies and two concubines entered the Palace of Earthly Honor, intending to strangle the sleeping emperor with a hemp rope. However, an unexpected knot formed in the rope, causing discomfort but failing to kill him.

There was an unwritten rule in the Manchu and Qing imperial families: as a child, you didn't have to care about being full, and you even had to purposefully be "hungry." Pu Yi, the last emperor of China (1908–1912), mentioned in his autobiography "The First Half of My Life" that he often experienced being "hungry" and candidly described himself as "starved." "Even though I complained about my hunger every day, no one paid attention. I remember one day, while watching fish in Zhongnanhai, the empress dowager had someone bring dried steamed buns for me to feed the fish. I couldn't resist and stuffed the steamed buns into my mouth. Instead of making the empress dowager realize her mistake, my starving appearance led her to impose even stricter precautions." This contradicts the popular belief that the emperor enjoyed lavish banquets every day. (Pu Yi. (2007). My Early Life.)

Artistic Treasures and Cultural Relics

In addition to its architectural wonders, the Forbidden City houses a vast collection of cultural relics and artworks. During my visit, I admired a great deal of ancient calligraphy and paintings, jade, porcelain, clocks, and enamelware. These exhibits showcase the exquisite craftsmanship and distinctive style of ancient Chinese art.

Appreciation for Manchu Culture

During my visit to the Forbidden City, I noticed some individuals donning traditional Manchu costumes. The Manchus, as an influential minority in China, were once the rulers of the Qing Dynasty. Manchu people have a rich tradition of valuing martial arts and possess expertise in horse domestication. Being of Manchu descent myself, I hold a special affinity for Manchu attire and culture.

Exploring the mysteries of the Forbidden City was a captivating experience, offering a glimpse into the lives of emperors and the workings of imperial power. From its magnificent halls to its extensive collection of cultural relics, the Forbidden City stands as a testament to China's rich heritage and the grandeur of its imperial past. At the same time, it also reminded me that the people who lived in the Forbidden City, symbolizing the Confucian concept of the "golden mean," were just like ordinary people, experiencing both joy and sorrow in their lives.

References

Pu Yi. (2007). My Early Life. Publisher: Group Publication Press