My Oil Has More Vitamin C Than Yours... or Does It?

From the lore of the mommy blogger, to influencers, and from the realm of AI, to even scientific literature, you'll repeatedly hear how this fruit/seed oil is supposedly richer in vitamin C than the next. They’ll vaguely reference the vitamin C content of the fruits or seeds themselves, leading you to believe that the oil contains all the chemical constituents of the whole fruit.

So Which Oil is the Richest in Vitamin C?

Well, here’s the truth:

None!

Vitamin C is a water-soluble compound, and no matter how many times you hear otherwise, it simply does not exist in any oil. Oils, by nature, are hydrophobic (water-repelling), and vitamin C, being hydrophilic (water-loving), cannot be dissolved or suspended in an oil. It’s a fundamental aspect of chemistry: vitamin C cannot and will not be present in any oil, regardless of how many times it’s claimed to be!

The Roots of the Misconception

This misinformation likely stems from the confusion between the high vitamin C content of the whole fruits or seeds and the oils extracted from them. For example, rosehip fruit is indeed rich in vitamin C, but once the oil is extracted, the vitamin C is left behind in the aqueous part of the fruit, not in the oil.

The marketing narrative conflates the fruit’s benefits with the oil’s properties, leading consumers to believe that these oils retain all the same nutrients.

The Science Behind It

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is one of the most studied skin brightening and anti-aging ingredients. Regardless of it's many drawbacks (notorious instability, pro-oxidant activity) it’s renowned for its ability to:

Stimulate collagen production

Reduce hyperpigmentation

Protect the skin against free radical damage

However, these effects are only possible when vitamin C is in a water-soluble formulation, typically serums or creams where it can dissolve in water. For an oil to claim vitamin C benefits is not only misleading, but it also ignores the very chemistry that defines how the vitamin works in skincare.

The Real Benefits Of Natural Oils

That’s not to say these oils have no value. Oils like rosehip, sea buckthorn, and a?ai have other beneficial components such as:

Fatty acids like omega-3, 6, and 9 that help repair the skin barrier

Antioxidants such as tocopherols (vitamin E), carotenoids, and flavonoids, which provide protective and anti-aging benefits

If you're looking for ingredients that directly support collagen production or cell proliferation, compounds like retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C derivatives are more directly involved in those processes.

Either look for water-based serums with ingredients like Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or go for Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate—the latter being a stabilized, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C that can penetrate the skin more effectively while still delivering similar benefits.

However vitamin C is not the only way to achieve a radiant complexion. Oils can offer a host of other bioactive compounds with brightening and anti-aging benefits, as long as they are conceptualised and formulated to do so!

Here is what you should expect to found into oils.

Polyphenols: This is a broader class of compounds with antioxidant properties that includes a wide variety of molecules, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, and tannins that offer significant benefits for skin health.

Retinoids: (Vitamin A derivatives) which are proven to boost collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce hyperpigmentation. They are highly effective in oil-based formulations.

Carotenoids: Present in oils like sea buckthorn and blackberry seed oil, these compounds offer antioxidant protection, support collagen synthesis, and promote a brighter, more even skin tone.

Extracts: To name just a few, Algae, rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, support skin renewal, or Liquorice containing (oil soluble) Glabridin with proven skin brightening effects etc.

Extremolytes: (e.g., certain algae or bacteria) which protect skin cells from damage and can even support cell proliferation, including collagen production, by stimulating cellular energy (ATP) and vitality.

Final Thoughts

While it’s easy to fall for the marketing buzz around “vitamin C-rich oils,” it’s essential to recognise the straightforward science behind skincare.

No oil—whether from citrus fruits, berries, or other plant sources—contains vitamin C.

If your skin is in need of that brightening boost and collagen support, now you know where to turn to!