My introspective Journey to Antarctica: between climate change and paradox

“Antarctica has this mythic weight. It resides in the collective unconscious of so many people, and it makes this huge impact, just like outer space. It’s like going to the moon.” — Jon Krakauer

As shared earlier last year, I was awarded the Antarctica Prize, generously sponsored by the Fondation du Domaine de Villette, for my master's thesis entitled "Solar energy interventions for sustainable livelihood opportunities in refugee camps in Djibouti". Thanks to this award, I've been given the chance to embark on a two-week journey to South Georgia and the White Continent where I've been able to observe the impact of climate change and the beauty of this pristine region and its inhabitants, accompanied by a team of specialists.

This article aims to share this wonderful adventure and to capture my reflections on how paradoxical it is to have travelled this far (and emitted so much CO2...) as a reward for my work on sustainable energy access in displacement settings.

The history ??

Visiting South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula was special in many ways. These places are laden with history about the 17-20th centuries exploration and exploitation of natural resources, including animals such as whales and seals. In the whole of the Antarctica region, some 1,432,862 animals were taken between 1904 and 1978, when hunting of the larger species ceased. This region has also hosted some of the most intrepid, resilient and courageous men sailing with wooden boats and fighting against the capricious weather and climate conditions of the region. Among them was a specific man we learnt about during our journey: Sir Ernest Shackleton! Being there was just a reminder of the amazing things that explorers have accomplished but also the negative effect that their discoveries had on the local balance of the ecosystem after we started exploiting the resources in an unsustainable manner. Signed in 1959, the Antarctic Treaty has for primary purpose to ensure "in the interests of all mankind that Antarctica shall continue forever to be used exclusively for peaceful purposes and shall not become the scene or object of international discord."

The penguins ??

We had the privilege to observe five species of penguins (“manchots” in French - not "pingouins") during our time in the Southern Hemisphere: the King, the Adelie, the Chinstrap, the Maraconi and the Gentoo (my favorite ??). We saw different stages of their lifecycle including molting, breeding/mating, nesting, laying/incubation of the egg, and chick hatching. We didn’t see any Emperor penguins that are located further south on the continent and actually reproduce on ice. However, we were told that for at least three years in a row (2017-2019, no data for 2020-2021) no Emperor chick has survived and become an adult due to the melting of the ice induced by global warming. The climate of the Antarctic Peninsula has been well monitored compared with other parts of the continent, and data show that this is the fastest-warming part of the Southern Hemisphere: the mean annual temperature has risen by about 3°C over the past 50 years ????

The frozen H2O, the O2 and the CO2 ????????

The multiple glaciers, icebergs, the frozen islands, the snow and the white continent were the highlight of the last few days on board the Ocean Victory. The colour of the water and the sky made every single scene unique. With the ice melting, we were breathing oxygen trapped for hundreds/thousands of years. It made me reflect on the beauty of Antarctica and how things are changing so fast over there. As said before, climate change is real and the mean annual temperature of the Antarctic Peninsula has risen by about 3°C over the past 50 years. Yet, what’s my contribution to global warming? This trip was very very carbon-intensive. My flights from Geneva to Ushuaia contributed to about 5 tons of CO2 (return). The cruise was also around 5 tons of CO2 (and this is considering that the Ocean Victory ship is part of a brand new generation of low-energy vessels, with 4 diesel engines and 2 electro engines, all controlled electronically to optimize speed and fuel consumption...). The average carbon footprint of a Swiss citizen is about 14 tons per year (including imports). So despite all my efforts in 2021 to travel only by train and bus till November and being a vegetarian, this trip basically doubled my footprint.

Okay, now what? How can I mitigate this environmental impact?

I received a ticket for this expedition as a sustainability Award for my master’s thesis. Despite being very grateful for this once in a lifetime experience, I can’t help to think how paradoxical it is. To compensate, carbon offset was the easy answer but still insufficient. In 2022, I'll subscribe to the carbon dioxide removal service from Climeworks. But again, limited scale compared to my impact.

I’m still processing and reflecting on how this journey changed me and will influence my future behaviours. And how I can somewhat find a way I feel at peace with these CO2 emissions that are now out there damaging the beautiful nature I was so lucky to observe for two weeks. Food for thought - any constructive feedback is welcomed ??

The wonderful humans

South Pole’s wildlife and nature were definitely one of the most beautiful things I’ve seen in my life. But I cannot conclude without mentioning that on board this ship, there were also incredible people that I got the chance the meet and with whom I’ve shared priceless quality time. Eclipse chasers, future "space tourists" from Virgin Galactic, a famous polar explorer Ben Saunders, the global curator of TED, Bruno Giussani, and specialists of Antarctica ranging from marine biologists to historians and ornithologists from Albatros Expeditions. And obviously, my fellow passengers who were curious and fortunate enough to embark on this trip enriched the journey in an unexpected but very valuable way. ????