Microplastics in cosmetic products – its impact and regulatory restrictions

What is a microplastic?

ECHA considers microplastics to be solid-state synthetic microparticles composed of insoluble, non-biodegradable polymers smaller than 5 mm.

All microplastics are polymers but not all polymers are microplastics. Whether a polymer is considered as microplastic depends on manufacturing process, their origin and physicochemical properties (notably their physical form), and the way the relevant product type is used.

What is a microplastic?

ECHA considers microplastics to be solid-state synthetic microparticles composed of insoluble, non-biodegradable polymers smaller than 5 mm.

All microplastics are polymers but not all polymers are microplastics. Whether a polymer is considered as microplastic depends on manufacturing process, their origin and physicochemical properties (notably their physical form), and the way the relevant product type is used.

What are the concerns for microplastics?

Microplastics are not biodegradable. Once they are in the environment, they accumulate in animals, such as shellfish and fish, and consequently accumulated in the food chain and found in humans.

Studies have shown that various microplastics can be found in human blood, vein tissue, semen, testis, pulmonary tissue, sputum, urine and kidneys, even placenta. ?

The wide existence of microplastics in marine, terrestrial ecosystems and freshwater as well as in food and drinking water is alarming. Laboratory studies have shown that exposure to microplastics is linked to a range of negative (eco)toxic and physical effects on living organisms. Another issue to be considered is that microplastics have large specific surface areas, making them easier to absorb hydrophobic chemicals (e.g., polychlorinated biphenyls) from aquatic environments. They can be considered as vectors for various harmful contaminants, such as heavy metals (Al, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Hg, Mn and Pb), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, polychlorinated biphenyls, pesticides and persistent organic pollutants.

What are the sources of microplastics?

Each year around 42000 tonnes of microplastics are released into the environment when products containing them are used. A range of products contain microplastics intentionally including plant protection products, fertilisers, cosmetics, cleaning products, paints, household and industrial detergents and products used in the oil and gas industry. Microplastics are also used as soft infill material on artificial turf sports pitches.

Prior to the ‘80s before the advent of microplastics, natural cosmetics ingredients such sugar, starch, cellulose, natural fats and oils, and cellulose were processed by the chemical tallow. Lanolin, derived from the fat of wool shearing, were additionally introduced to the market as emollients after the Second World War. Microplastics replaced those natural ingredients due to their wide range of positive properties, such as they are odourless, chemically inert substances, non-sensitizing, and non-irritating. They have various cosmetic functions including viscosity regulation, film forming, opacifying, bulking, and exfoliating, acting as humectants and moisturizers, controlling the appearance, thickness and stability of a product. They can also be used as glitters on their own or in make-up.

The major microplastics found in cosmetics formulations include Polyethylene (PE), Polypropylene (PP), Poly(methyl methacrylate) or PMMA, Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET), Polyamides (Nylon), Polyurethane (PU), PU cross polymer-1, Polyacrylates, Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and polypropylene glycols (PPGs), synthetic polymers of ethylene glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polystyrene (PS), various types of Nylon, acrylates and polyurethane crosspolymers.

While cosmetic products containing microplastics contributes to 8% of total release in EU, the largest single source of pollution is the granular infill material used on artificial turf pitches, with releases of up to 16 000 tonnes. In addition, the releases of?unintentionally?formed microplastics (when larger pieces of plastic wear and tear) are estimated to be around 176 000 tonnes a year to the European surface waters.?Also, agriculture and detergents count 24% and 20% of total microplastics release.

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Global regulation on microplastic restriction

EU

In September 2022, EU notified WTO of a draft regulation aiming at imposing tighter restrictions upon products, including cosmetics, containing intentionally added microplastics. On September 27, 2023, EU officially adopted these restrictions under EU's chemical legislation Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 Concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), marking another significant stride in environmental protection.

The adopted restrictions apply to solid polymers that meet the following conditions:?

a.????? They are present in particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of those particles or form a continuous surface coating on particles.

b.????? At least 1% by weight of the particles referred to in "Point a" fulfil either of the following conditions:

i. All dimensions of the particles are equal to or less than 5 mm.

ii. The length of the particles is equal to or less than 15 mm, and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3.

The adopted restrictions require that, starting from October 17, 2023,?synthetic polymer microparticles within the designated scope shall not be placed on the market as individual substances. Additionally, if they are present in mixtures to confer a sought-after characteristic, their concentrations shall be below 0.01% by weight.?

Cosmetics are subject to the adopted restrictions. To ensure sufficient time to develop suitable alternatives and limit the costs for the industry, specific transitional periods are offered based on product categories defined in the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (Cosmetics Regulation).

Chinese Mainland

Microplastic is defined as solid plastic particles that are less than or equal to 5 mm in size and insoluble in water. It is prohibited in daily chemical products.

South Korea

Microplastic is defined as any solid plastic particle measured less than 5 mm in size and used to exfoliate or cleanse in a rinse-off product. It is prohibited in cosmetic products.

Indonesia

Microplastics are solid plastic particles less than 5 mm, used as exfoliants or cleansing agents in rinse-off products. It is prohibited in rinse-off cosmetic products.

Thailand

Microplastic is defined as small solid synthetic plastic particles less than 5 mm in diameter used for scrubbing or rinsing, insoluble in water, and not biodegradable. It is prohibited in rinse-off cosmetics.

New Zealand

Microplastics are tiny plastic particles, including plastic-based glitter, that are added to products to increase their cleaning or scrubbing power, or to make the product look fun or appealing. It is prohibited in wash-off products.

Hongkong SAR, China

Microplastics are solid plastic particles with a size of less than 5 mm in diameter in some rinse-off PCCPs for providing functions such as scrubbing, exfoliating or cleansing. Without relevant legislation, trades are encouraged to stop the production, importation and sale of PCCPs containing microbeads.

Australia

Microplastics are small, solid, manufactured plastic particles that are less than 5 mm in diameter and do not degrade or dissolve in water. They may be added to a range of products, including rinse-off cosmetic, personal care and cleaning products. At federal level, Australia implements a voluntary agreement to phase out microbeads in rinse-off personal care, cosmetics, and cleaning products. At state level, four states have enacted laws prohibiting the supply of rinse-off personal care and cleaning products that contain microbeads.

?Reference:

1.????? Microplastiques - ECHA (Last accessed on Nov 18, 2024)

2.????? Marco Giustra et al., Microplastics in Cosmetics: Open Questions and Sustainable Opportunities. Chemistry Europe. doi.org/10.1002/cssc.202401065. ChemSusChem 2024, e202401065 (1 of 18)

3.????? Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 of 25 September 2023 Amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 as Regards Synthetic Polymer Microparticles.

4.????? GB/T 40146-2021 Determination of Plastic Microbead in Cosmetics.

5.????? Regulation on Safety Standards, etc. for Cosmetics (Notice No. 2023-73) (Local Title: ??? ???? ?? ?? ?? ??????(?) ????; Country/Region: South Korea; Competent Authority: Ministry of Food and Drug Safety). Release date 2023-11-30.

6.????? Technical Requirements for Cosmetics Ingredients 2019. (Local Title:

NOMOR 23 TAHUN 2019 TENTANG PERSYARATAN TEKNIS BAHAN KOSMETIKA. Country/Region: Indonesia. Competent Authority: Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan). Release date: 2019-08-22.

7.????? Announcement of the Ministry of Public Health on the Specification of Cosmetics that are Prohibited from Being Manufactured, Imported or Sold. Thailand. (Original post available at: T_0004.PDF. last accessed on Nov 18, 2024)

8.????? EPA’s Alerts on Microbeads. Available at Microbeads ban: is your product affected? | EPA and Microbeads regulations | Ministry for the Environment (Last accessed on Nov 18, 2024)

9.????? Environmental Protection Department (EPD)’s Announcement on Launching Bye Bye Microbeads Charter. (Available at: Bye Bye Microbeads charter launched today and ea20231215cb1-1107-3-c.pdf). Last accessed on November 19, 2024.

10. Australian Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water’s ? Announcement on Plastic Microbeads. (Available at: Plastic microbeads - DCCEEW. Last accessed on Nov 19, 2024.