Mickey Mouse Stakes His Claim - Science Washing Cosmetic Claims

Ever since I have been working in this industry (and yes, it’s many years!), scientists including myself have always been critical of what we have called ‘mickey-mouse’ science. Today we call it ‘science-washing’. Although there have been a number of interesting articles on this subject, the misuse or exaggeration of scientific data in cosmetics is growing, and forms a major part of cosmetic claims seen on the internet.

The practice of science-washing not only misleads consumers and annoys the advertising standards authorities, but it also challenges our EU regulatory frameworks, and the six claims criteria for cosmetic products. So how do we face-off this growing trend?

Understanding Science Washing

Science washing, the misuse of scientific claims to market cosmetic products, has far-reaching implications. It not only deceives consumers but also undermines the credibility of the entire cosmetic industry, including reputable scientists who genuinely contribute to advancements in the field. Science washing refers to the act of using scientific language, imagery, or endorsements to give an impression of credibility and efficacy to products without substantial or accurate scientific backing. In the cosmetic industry, this can involve:

• Misleading Claims - Using terms like "clinically proven," "dermatologist-tested," or "scientifically formulated" without rigorous evidence.
• Pseudo-Scientific Jargon - Employing complex scientific terminology to confuse or impress consumers.
• False Endorsements - Citing studies or experts out of context or using endorsements from unqualified individuals.

Manifestations of Science Washing in Cosmetic Claims

• Ambiguous Terminology - Phrases like "scientifically advanced formula" often lack precise definitions and can mislead consumers into believing the product has been subject to extensive scientific research.
• Selective Data Presentation - Companies may highlight positive study results while ignoring negative or inconclusive findings. For example, a product may boast of being "proven to reduce wrinkles by 50%" based on a small, non-peer-reviewed study. How many times have I seen this!
• Imagery and Packaging - Use of laboratory imagery, complex molecular structures, or scientific apparatus on packaging to imply a high level of scientific rigour behind the product's development.
• Endorsements and Certifications - Products often feature endorsements from "experts" who may not have relevant qualifications or present certifications that sound authoritative but have no real regulatory significance.

Mickey Mouse Erodes Consumer Trust

Consumers who feel/believe they are deceived by exaggerated or false scientific claims may lose trust in the brands that use them. This mistrust can extend beyond individual brands to the entire cosmetic industry, making consumers skeptical of all scientific claims in cosmetics. As consumers become more aware of science washing, they may develop a general skepticism towards any scientific claims in cosmetics. This can lead to a dismissive attitude towards even well-supported and genuine scientific advancements, undermining the perceived value of scientifically backed products.

Devaluation of Genuine Scientific Research

• Reduced Impact of Authentic Research - Authentic scientific research conducted by credible cosmetic scientists may be overshadowed by the prevalence of pseudo-scientific claims. This can diminish the perceived importance and impact of genuine scientific findings in the eyes of both consumers and industry stakeholders.
• Difficulty in Differentiating Legitimate Claims - The flood of misleading claims can make it challenging for consumers to distinguish between legitimate, science-backed products and those that are merely science washed. This blurring of lines can devalue the efforts of reputable scientists whose work adheres to rigorous standards.

Challenges for Credible Scientists

Whatever Hollywood may say, Mickey Mouse comes in all shapes and sizes, and its challenge to credible science and scientists is considerable leading to:

• Damage to Professional Reputation - When pseudo-scientific claims are exposed, it can cast a shadow over the entire field, including the reputations of credible cosmetic scientists. Consumers may question the integrity and reliability of all scientific claims, regardless of their validity.
• Funding and Research Implications - The proliferation of science washing can impact funding for legitimate research. Investors and funding bodies may become hesitant to support cosmetic science projects if they perceive the field as being rife with misleading practices.
• Pressure to Conform - Scientists within the industry continually face pressure to conform to marketing demands, potentially compromising their scientific integrity. This pressure leads to conflicts between maintaining scientific rigour and meeting commercial objectives.

Impact of Science Washing on EU's Claims Criteria

• Undermining Legal Compliance - Science washing can lead to non-compliance with regulatory standards. Misleading claims that lack substantial evidence violate the legal requirements, potentially resulting in fines and product recalls.
• Erosion of Trust - When consumers realise they have been misled by pseudo-scientific claims, it erodes trust in the brand and the industry. This lack of trust can lead to stricter regulations and oversight, impacting all players in the market.
• Challenges in Evidential Support - Science washing complicates the requirement for evidential support. Regulators must distinguish between genuine scientific backing and manipulated data, increasing the burden of verification and enforcement.
• Honest and Fair Communication - Misleading claims often lead to dishonest communication about a product’s benefits. This not only deceives consumers but also creates unfair competition, where companies that adhere to honest practices are at a disadvantage.
• Informed Decision Making - Pseudo-scientific claims hinder informed decision making by providing false or exaggerated information. Consumers cannot accurately assess the efficacy or value of products, leading to poor purchasing decisions and potential harm.

Impact on Industry Standards and Regulations

• Stricter Regulations - In response to widespread science washing, regulatory bodies may impose stricter regulations and scrutiny on scientific claims in cosmetics. While this can help curb misleading practices, it can also increase the burden on companies and scientists to provide extensive proof and documentation.
• Industry-Wide Repercussions? — Science washing scandals can lead to industry-wide repercussions, including reduced consumer spending on cosmetics and a decline in market growth. Companies that prioritise scientific integrity may suffer collateral damage as a result of the actions of less scrupulous competitors.

Restoring Credibility: Steps Forward

To restore credibility in the cosmetic industry and support the work of genuine scientists, several measures are essential:

• Promoting Transparency and Honesty - Companies should commit to transparent and honest marketing practices, clearly distinguishing between scientifically proven benefits and marketing hyperbole. Providing detailed, accessible information about the scientific basis for product claims can help rebuild trust.
• Strengthening Regulatory Oversight - Regulatory bodies should enhance oversight and enforcement of existing standards, ensuring that all scientific claims are substantiated by credible evidence. Implementing stricter penalties for non-compliance can deter misleading practices.
• Supporting Consumer Education - Again! - Educating consumers about science washing and how to critically evaluate scientific claims can empower them to make informed choices. This can include public awareness campaigns and educational resources on cosmetic science.
• Encouraging Independent Verification - Independent verification of scientific claims by reputable third parties can provide an additional layer of credibility. Certifications from recognised bodies can help consumers trust that the claims made by a product are legitimate. But don’t forget the ‘perils of perception’.
• Fostering a Culture of Integrity — Within the industry, fostering a culture that values scientific integrity over marketing gimmicks is crucial. This includes supporting the work of credible scientists and ensuring that their contributions are recognised and valued.

Science washing significantly undermines the credibility of the cosmetic industry and the scientists working within it. By understanding and addressing this practice, the industry can move towards more honest and transparent marketing. The EU's six claims criteria provide a robust framework for ensuring that cosmetic product claims are truthful, substantiated, and fair. However, ongoing vigilance and proactive measures are essential to uphold the integrity of the market and protect consumer interests. Prioritising transparency, strengthening regulations, educating consumers, and supporting legitimate research, the industry can work towards restoring trust and ensuring that scientific advancements are recognised and valued. The collective effort to combat science washing will benefit not only consumers but also the integrity and reputation of the cosmetic industry as a whole.

For more information read the second edition of my book* available from Amazon and Kobo internationally: https://www.amazon.com/Help-Im-Covered-Adjectives-Cosmetic-ebook/dp/B0CXYB7M5D?ref_=ast_author_dp

Join my IFSCC webinar on Borderline Claims later this month, where science washing is also discussed: https://event.webinarjam.com/register/133/9p749ioq

Check out these articles from:

Tori Crowther (Science Fiction. Pure Beauty Magazine, May 2024: https://flickread.com/edition/html/index.php?pdf=663a8bb505446&dm_i=8EU,8MOAL,2GBCVM,ZS78H,1#32 ) and

The Fine Art of Detecting Science Washing by Stefan Siegel and Jannes Terdenge

https://www.wissenschaftskommunikation.de/the-fine-art-of-detecting-sciencewashing-definition-consequences-forms-prevention-65003/