Met Gala and Beyond: Slow Fashion Forward with Biomimicry, Digital Product Passports, Green AI, and Blockchain

To develop a complete mind: Study the science of art; Study the art of science. Learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else. - Leonardo da Vinci

This year's Met Gala theme, "The Garden of Time," is based on the Costume Institute's new exhibition, "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion." It draws inspiration from the 1962 short story by J.G. Ballard. The narrative of the theme explores the concept of preservation, with flowers symbolizing beauty, youth, and innocence. The combination of nature and couture gowns, the opulence of white tie dinners, and the allure of celebrities, stylists, publicists, and editors all in one place for one night against the backdrop of preservation, highlights a narrative with multiple meanings, particularly regarding the fashion industry's environmental impact.

As the fashion industry gears up for what can be considered its most significant event of the year, it's essential to acknowledge that behind the allure of exquisite couture gowns, luxurious delicacies like Caspian Sea Alma golden caviar, foie gras, and lobster, there exists a global working class fashion industry that spans across different income levels. This industry boasts an annual production of 100 billion garments, generating a staggering $1.7 trillion in business while also imposing a substantial human welfare and environmental toll. The focal point of the 2024 Met Gala centers around rebirth and renewal through timeless storytelling and extending the lifespan of 250 rare archival gowns featured in the exhibition. Let's hope the industry elite use the night's theme as an opportunity to engage in vital conversations about the conservation of Earth's natural resources, sustainability, and circularity, beyond merely focusing on the extreme preservation of fragile gowns that may never be worn again.

With only 30% of the clothes in our closets being used and the rest potentially contributing to the alarming 90 million tonnes of textile waste annually, the need for a sustainable overhaul is urgent. The fashion industry also contributes to the 50 million people living in modern slavery. Each year, 13 million tons of textiles is produced, 95% of which could have been reused, upcycled, or recycled. Undoubtedly, we are long overdue for a much-needed paradigm shift. Eco-conscious brands have begun to adopt the EU's Digital Product Passports (DPPs) requirement, implement the UN's Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), and are closely monitoring regulations like the proposed New York Fashion Act. Supporters of the proposed New York Fashion Act will travel to Albany, NY on May 7 to share their advocacy, ironically a day after this year's Met Gala. It's been apparent for many years that a transformative shift towards sustainable and circular business models is crucial for a healthier and more humane future.

The Kids are Growing Up

Since the Industrial Revolution and the invention of the steam-powered cotton spinning mule, textiles have contributed to environmental issues. However, the issues of overproduction and overconsumption have rapidly escalated over the years, amplified by social media and the fast fashion phenomenon.

In the early 2000s, hauls and the fast fashion culture came to dominate the industry, resulting in an increase loss of human life, wreaking havoc on our climate and environment, and adversely affecting our health. However, the younger generation is growing up and becoming aware of the harsh realities and costs associated with this cultural shift. They are learning about the environmental cost of the garment industry from their parents and caregivers, as well as through documentaries and coverage in leading fashion publications.

Amidst the challenges that emerged in the 1960s, the concept of slow fashion was introduced, and it has regained significant momentum as a crucial element in redefining the fashion industry. Slow fashion, which places emphasis on mindful and sustainable practices, including ethical production methods, prioritizes quality and longevity. The concept of slow fashion encourages consumers to buy less but better-quality garments that last longer, thus reducing the demand for fast, cheap, and disposable clothing that contributes to vast waste and human exploitation in the supply chain. By aligning with the principles of slow fashion, both consumers and producers can contribute to a culture that values craftsmanship, respects the environment, and promotes fair labor practices. It serves as a complementary approach to the technological solutions like biomimicry and blockchain, emphasizing that true sustainability also involves changing consumer behavior and industry standards on a cultural level.?

The Potential of a Circular Fashion Industry

With less than 1% of the industry currently operating under circular models, the linear "take-make-waste" approach is unsustainable. However, the integration of biomimicry, digital product passports, blockchain, and AI offers a transformative potential to reimagine fashion into a more circular, ethical industry. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, embracing circular fashion could unlock a $700 billion annual opportunity by 2030, create 6 million jobs, and significantly lower emissions.

The Power of Biomimicry and Emerging Technologies

An understanding of the biomimicry life principles could offer the fashion industry one blueprint for sustainability. The use of mushrooms, bananas, and hemp to develop textile fibers demonstrate how resources can be used more responsibly, minimizing environmental footprints and fostering a new aesthetic that consumers and influencers could grow to value deeply.

In addition, the application of green AI and eco-friendly blockchain solutions hold the promise of transforming these sustainable materials into part of a larger, transparent supply chain ecosystem. These technologies help to ensure that every step—from cultivation and harvest to manufacturing and distribution—is conducted more ethically and sustainably.

Biomimicry offers a compelling pathway by drawing inspiration from nature's efficiency to create materials, structures, and cycles with zero waste. For instance, mushroom leather, an animal-free textile, mimics traditional leather while avoiding synthetic fibers that contribute to microplastic pollution—an issue responsible for 35% of microplastics in oceans. By learning from ecosystems, fashion can develop sustainable materials, design repairable garments with modular components, and foster regenerative production cycles.

Lessening the Impact

Our clothes, shelter, and food can all derive from natural resources and work together in a circular business model to lessen the impact on our environment. By embracing sustainable practices such as locally sourced materials, ethical manufacturing, and regenerative agriculture, we can cultivate a more harmonious system that contributes to a healthier planet.

Mushrooms are as one of the most sustainable resources for textiles, with their capability to be cultivated efficiently and with minimal environmental disruption. Similarly, cacti, requiring minimal water and care, present another sustainable textile option. These materials not only mitigate the negative impacts of synthetic textile use in the fashion industry but also set a precedent for future sustainable and circular practices in various industries.

Pineapples and Pi?atex

Producing sustainable fibers from pineapple leaves involves more than just harvesting the fruit; it requires confronting deeply entrenched unsustainable practices within the pineapple farming and the apparel finishing industry. These include the use of chemical pesticides, pollution, rainforest destruction, reliance on plastic packaging, harmful garment dyes, unsustainable fabric treatment, and problematic labor conditions. Pi?atex, derived from pineapple leaf fibers, could offer help to mitigate some of the damage. It not only significantly reduces waste in the pineapple industry by repurposing by products but also serves as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic materials. This approach not only helps mitigate environmental harm but also promotes sustainable development within the pineapple farming industry, paving the way for more transparent, responsible, and ethical supply chains.

Sustainable Practices in Banana Farming

Pineapples are not alone in terms of unsustainable monoculture farming practices. Banana farming has also been historically plagued by issues such as deforestation, excessive use of agrochemicals, and poor labor conditions. Sustainable practices such as organic farming, crop rotation, and integrated pest management can be enhanced with AI technologies that monitor crop health and soil quality, reducing the need for chemical interventions. This could enable a more sustainable way to obtain fibers from banana plants for use in the textile industry. This not only provides an additional revenue stream for farmers but also reduces waste, as the fibers are typically derived from parts of the plant that are not used for food.

Innovation in Farming

The integration of biomimicry, prioritization of human welfare, and the use of advanced technologies such as blockchain and AI for supply chain transparency, combined with a commitment to sustainable farming and textile production practices across all manufacturing touch points, create a more holistic approach toward achieving a circular economy and an ethical future. Blockchain and AI thus not only support the shift towards more sustainable agricultural and textile practices but also empower consumers to make informed choices about the products they purchase, ultimately fostering a more circular economy.

In addition, for biomimicry to successfully cultivate long-term sustainability outcomes, the farming industry must shift to more sustainable processes such as: polyculture, crop diversification, permaculture, and increase the use of natural pesticides. Such practices ensure that the farming not only takes from the environment but also gives back, creating a harmonious balance that can sustain future generations.

Leveraging Green AI and Blockchain for Greater Sustainability and Ethics

Green AI Applications

• Forced Labor Monitoring: AI algorithms can analyze data from supply chains to detect patterns indicative of unethical labor practices, providing transparency and accountability.
• Water Level Management: AI can help predict water needs and optimize water usage in crop production for natural fibers, reducing the environmental impact of textile production.
• Food Security: By forecasting crop yields and monitoring agricultural conditions, AI ensures that the production of natural fibers like hemp and banana does not compromise food security.

Eco-friendly Blockchain Applications

• Supply Chain Transparency: Blockchain technology can create immutable records of every transaction and transfer within the supply chain, ensuring that all processes comply with ethical standards.
• Traceability of Materials: Consumers and regulators can trace the origins of materials used in garments, verifying claims of sustainability and ethical production.
• Verification of Labor Practices: Blockchain can be used to verify that workers are paid fairly, record working hours, and help to confirm people are working under safe conditions, helping to eliminate forced labor from the supply chains.

Evaluating Sustainability with the Higg Index?

The Higg Index comprises a set of tools that empower brands, retailers, and manufacturers to assess and rate the sustainability performance of a company or product. While data is crucial for evaluating the environmental impact of materials and ensuring that the fashion industry's transition towards sustainability is both measurable and transparent, the need for 'soil to soil' data is essential to achieve this goal in a more transparent and effective manner. We need effective tools and unfortunately the Higg Index has come under scrutiny for its lack of data around the environmental impacts of synthetic fiber production, leading to inaccurate data reporting. In the end it's a software company, that has ignored environmental concerns and lowered the bar for transformation to a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry.

Looking Forward to Opportunity

Blockchain's ability to provide transparent, tamper-proof records offers a level of traceability and verification previously unattainable, potentially reducing forced labor and unethical practices from supply chains. Similarly, AI’s predictive capabilities and data analytics can optimize resource use, enhance crop yields for natural fibers, and ensure that the industry's growth does not come at the expense of food security or environmental health.

Overcoming Challenges

The path to integrating these innovations is not without challenges. First, there is the issue of technological adoption and the associated costs. Implementing advanced AI systems and blockchain infrastructure requires significant investment, which can be a high barrier for smaller brands and manufacturers. There is also the challenge of scalability and the need to educate and transition the entire supply chain to these new methods and materials.

It’s a Balancing Act

The balance between opportunity and challenge in adopting biomimicry and advanced technologies in fashion hinges on cross-sector collaboration and commitment at all levels—from policymakers and industry leaders to farmers, consumers, and activists. It requires a concerted effort to foster innovation while managing the economic implications of such a shift.?

Educating consumers about the value of sustainable practices and the true cost of fast fashion can shift market dynamics to support ethical production. Simultaneously, advancements in technology should be leveraged to make sustainable practices more efficient and cost-effective, thereby lowering barriers to entry and scalability challenges.

In conclusion, while the road ahead is complex, the potential rewards of a sustainable, ethical, and profitable fashion industry are immense. By embracing the principles of biomimicry and the power of technology, the fashion industry can not only reduce its environmental impact but also lead the way towards a more sustainable future for all industries. The journey will require resilience, regulation, innovation, and global cooperation, but the outcome will redefine the value and impact of fashion in the modern world.