Meat the expert: pork belly

It continues to impress me the way pork belly is being used by more chefs in more restaurants across different cuisines right around the nation. It seems there is no end to consumer demand for this prized cut of pork. Perhaps it’s because it’s so versatile. Perhaps it’s just that it’s so delicious. Whatever the case, it’s also a cut with an amazing story, from lesser-loved to high-end dining.

Pork belly was once rarely served in Australia outside of Chinese restaurants. Even up until the 1980s, pork was all about chops, legs and bacon. Sometime in the early ’90s, when Adelaide chef Cheong Liew slowly cooked a pork belly flat in a tray and crisped the crackling in a hot oven, Western chefs took notice, and pork belly began to pop up in kitchens all around Australia.

There are good reasons behind this surge in popularity. For the diner, it’s truly delicious and texturally awesome – from the silky, rich fat to the snap and crack of the crunchy crackling. From a chef’s point of view, it’s versatile, consistent and offers diners a touch of luxury. And while we do see some seasonal fluctuations in the price of beef and lamb, the cost of pork changes very little, making it an ideal protein to plan menus around. Chefs can confidently run it as a regular dish because of the reasonable and stable food costs.

Australian pork growers are also some of the best farmers in the world, producing pork with the perfect balance of muscle layered between seams of soft, creamy white fat with just a thin sheet of skin. When pork belly is heated, the fat renders, coating the meat in succulent, tasty juices. Pork fat can also reach high temperatures without burning, frying the skin and turning it into the crisp, bubbly crackling we all love.

Pork belly, especially Homestead Pork belly, is trimmed during production. The bones are removed, and each piece is uniformly shaped, square or rectangular. This means it will fit in a pan and will portion out evenly. All Homestead Pork belly is sourced from female pigs. As a good chef knows, female pork is sweeter and will never suffer from boar taint.

The versatility extends not just to the style of cuisine but also to the cooking method, making it appealing to almost any restaurant. While I was out on the road recently, I saw customers preparing pork belly bao buns, smoked pork belly bites, pork belly ramen, pork belly roast with apple sauce, pork belly with Chinese five spice and pork belly tacos. It really does suit all styles of cuisine.

It was also interesting to note how chefs often pair pork belly with sharp and clean flavours, like a zesty apple coleslaw or pickled cucumber. It was good to see chefs using their key protein wisely. One dish that was getting rave feedback (while also making bank) was a delicious sesame and ponzu Asian salad, made with loads of green leaves, coriander and Vietnamese mint, studded with cubes of crisp pork belly.

Another common cooking technique involves braising in cider, often sous vide, then pressing the belly flat as it cools. Once cooled, the skin is seared gently until the crackling is perfect. Served with cauliflower purée, truffle oil and a red wine jus, what would once have belonged in a Michelin-starred restaurant is now as at home in your local club or pub.

Bolognaise is another favourite for pork belly. The next time you’re knocking up your signature sauce, add some belly alongside beef or veal. Skinned and diced, it will stew down into tender flakes of meat and fat and add richness to your ragout. It also makes a wonderful farce for terrines or a traditional filling for ravioli. Don’t forget nutmeg when using pork in Italian cuisine.

Returning to the origins of this prime cut, there’s one dish as popular today as it was when it first appeared on lazy Susans around the country. A dish that’s as classic Chinese as it is Australian – sweet and sour pork. Perhaps this retro classic will make an appearance on your next menu. Remember, there are lots of diners who are looking for that authentic, succulent Chinese meal!

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