Mbeya to Arusha July 1940

Once across the border of Northern Rhodesia and into Tanganyika territory the convoy of trucks carrying the men of 237 (Rhodesia) Squadron to war in East Africa continued their journey along the Great North Road to Iringa in the southern highlands.

The climb up the escarpment took them through some interesting territory, hilly and fertile, with winding dirt roads. It was ideal country for tea plantations.

So, after 185 arduous miles it was definitely time for a pit stop and a cuppa at the Southern Highlands Hotel, Sao Hill.

Built by Percy and Margaret Allen after their arrival from England in 1928, the hotel was well known as the halfway house between Mbeya and Dodoma, frequented by road traffic to and from East Africa. 

There is nothing left of the hotel now other than an avenue of trees. The Allen family left the country under some duress in 1967.

With only 61 miles to go to Iringa, the convoy pressed on to higher ground and parked overnight at the 11th East Africa Division parade ground. At 5 000 above sea level it was a chilly night for them all.

Iringa - meaning ‘fort’ in the local Hehe language - was built during German occupation in the late 19th century. It was the scene of the murderous Maji Maji Rebellion in 1905-1907 and several WW1 battles. Memorials to both these historical events could be seen in town. Now, at the outbreak of WW11, all German nationals were being rounded up and interred prior to deportation to South Africa and the Rhodesias. Thousands of homes, farms and businesses owned by Germans were abandoned.

Next day, the convoy made another welcome stop, 20 miles beyond Iringa on the escarpment. They paused to enjoy a spectacular view of the next leg of their journey, down to the flat lands and the Great Ruaha River, a major tributary of the Rufiji.

The bridge over the river was impressive for those days.

Before entering Dodoma, another town built by the Germans in 1907, Loubscher felt the need to get cleaned up. Perhaps some young fr?uleins were still in town?

North of Dodoma they passed through brachystegia woodlands that reminded them of the msasa trees back home. Their new leaves would be painting the trees in beautiful wine-red colours next month.

Arriving at Kondoa Irangi, the convoy rested beside one of the magnificent baobab trees, with a nearby lake to wash off the dust from tired vehicles and tired bodies. The lorries were parked in line astern in true military tradition, as always. Brace up boys!

It was here in 1916 that South African General Van Deventer and 3 000 men of his 2nd Division held off an attack by General Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck. With his 4 000 schutztruppe and heavy artillery, including two 105 mm guns salvaged from SMS K?nigsberg - the German light cruiser scuttled in the Rufiji Delta on 11 July 1915 - the famous ‘Lion of Africa’ pounded the South Africans.

Nearing the Babati River the convoy followed the scenic route over the hills before entering big game country between Lake Manyara and the Tarangire National Park.

Frequent stops were made to admire the abundant wild life, the roofs of their vehicles providing excellent viewing platforms to watch giraffes loftily nibbling the treetops.

Our final night was spent at Arusha in the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro, which was a magnificent sight. Even from Nairobi aerodrome one could see the snow covered peak on clear days.

The New Arusha Hotel was a ‘compulsory roadblock’. The bar, with a carving of a rhino above the signpost, must have tempted them inside for a pint or two of frosty cold Kilimanjaro beer. Unfortunately tennis and swimming would not be on the menu, as advertised, but dinner bed and breakfast - at 3 Kenyan shillings - was a ‘gift’ from the hotel proprietors Ray and Marg Ulyate who also offered spacious accommodation. As part of their war effort, the Ulyates provided a room for the men to spread out sleeping bags and stretchers.

When the mist cleared next morning they were treated to some unforgettable views from the Tanganyika Police Lines of Africa’s second highest mountain, the slumbering Mt Meru.

At this point they were exactly half way between The Cape and Cairo and only 170 miles from destination. The end of the road was in sight.

They pulled into Nairobi on 10 July 1940.

 Nairobi was a pleasant town with many English gentry living in the beautiful countryside. There was a small RAF base and simple billets had been built for us.

 Photo credits: Colin Newton and June Ulyate Thomas. Thanks to Richard Allen for all his help.