Mastering Garment Measurement Control in Denim Manufacturing: A Blueprint for Success

By Shoaib Aziz

Introduction

With the rise of e-commerce in the fashion industry, delivering high-quality garments has become a top priority for retailers, especially in the wake of the current pandemic. According to statistics from narvar.com's State of Returns Consumer Report 2021, a significant 42% of returns are attributed to measurement issues. Denim jeans and related products are perennial favorites among consumers. In this article, we'll delve into the world of garment measurements in the denim industry.

The Challenges of Post-Wash Garment Measurement

As someone working in a denim jeans manufacturing factory, particularly dealing with washed garments, I'm well aware that achieving precise measurements as per the specification sheet can be a daunting task, especially when tolerance levels are tight. Several challenging factors affect post-wash garment measurements. Let's explore key strategies to ensure accurate measurements for your denim jeans and apparel.

1. Shrinkage Testing of Denim Fabric

The journey begins with shrinkage testing of denim fabric. Shrinkage coupons, marked denim fabric swatches (50 x 50 cm), are washed under production conditions to determine the actual fabric shrinkage specific to the required wash process. Shrinkage occurs after treating the fabric with either permanent (chemical) or physical processes, resulting in positive (growth) or negative (shrink) effects. The shrinkage test results serve as fundamental data for subsequent processes aimed at achieving precise post-wash measurements.

Quick note: Coupons should undergo relaxation for about 15-18 hours minimum before marking and sending them for washing. The relaxation time may vary depending on the fabric type and lead time.

2. Relaxation of Denim Fabric

Fabric relaxation is a critical step influenced by the fabric type. It is advisable to allow fabric relaxation for a minimum of 24 hours for stretch fabric before cutting and at least 2 hours on the cutting table. This process helps the fabric regain its original shape and ensures dimensional stability after cutting. Effective measurement control post-wash heavily depends on roll allocation (grouping of lots for shrinkage) and how it's executed. Roll allocation is typically determined by client requirements and the capacity of the Computer-Aided Design (CAD) system, ultimately defining the range of measurements achievable after washing.

Quick note: To determine appropriate grouping in warp and weft, it's advisable to align with the client's specified tolerances. In general, the narrower the tolerance, the fewer rolls should be grouped together to minimize deviations in trousers after washing.

3. Adding Stitching Allowances into Patterns

Maintaining uniform stitching allowances during production is crucial. Without proper regulation and constant checks, inconsistent stitching allowances can result in deviations (either positive or negative) in trousers' measurements before washing, posing significant concerns. To address this, ensure that machines are correctly adjusted for seam allowance. Additionally, consider the fraying of the fabric, which can sometimes hide as a concealed factor affecting measurements.

Quick tip: Before introducing any new order, ensure that machines are properly adjusted for the desired seam allowance, and be vigilant about potential fabric fraying issues.

4. Following the Right Washing Process

Apart from the factors mentioned earlier, the type of washing process used plays a pivotal role in garment shrinkage and measurements. Different fabrics react distinctively to various wash processes. It's imperative for the laundry department to strictly adhere to the washing recipe across all stages. Pay particular attention to the dryer temperature and the number of drying cycles, as they significantly impact measurements. While a standard recommendation is to run the dryer at 70 degrees, adjustments may be necessary based on specific requirements. It's advisable to measure the first batch before proceeding to fine-tune the temperature settings.

Best Practices for Measurement Control

Achieving accurate garment measurements, especially in the context of denim manufacturing, necessitates a combination of precision and attention to detail. Here are some best practices:

1. Pattern Precision

• Pattern Digitization: Utilize CAD software to convert physical patterns into digital formats, ensuring accurate representation of designer intentions.
• Pattern Grading: Create multiple sizes from a single base pattern while maintaining consistent grading.
• Shrinkage Calculation: Account for fabric shrinkage during washing in the initial pattern design.

2. Quality Cutting Techniques

• Laser Cutting: Implement laser cutting technology for precise fabric cutting, resulting in clean edges and minimal fraying.
• Proper Marking: Ensure accurate placement of pattern pieces on fabric to guarantee proper alignment during sewing.
• Pattern Spreading: Use fabric spreaders to lay out fabric uniformly, reducing tension variations that can affect measurements.

3. Streamlined Sewing Processes

• Operator Training: Train sewing operators to maintain consistent seam allowances and stitch lengths for uniformity.
• Quality Control: Introduce quality control checkpoints during sewing to inspect garments for measurement deviations and stitching irregularities.
• Machine Maintenance: Regularly maintain and calibrate sewing machines to ensure optimal performance and precise stitching.

4. Washing Techniques

• Wash Recipe Control: Strictly adhere to washing recipe parameters, including water temperature, cycle duration, and chemical additives, to ensure consistent wash results.
• Sample Monitoring: Regularly measure and inspect samples during the washing process to verify that garments meet desired post-wash measurements.
• Shrinkage Allowance: Add a shrinkage allowance to pattern pieces to account for expected fabric shrinkage during washing, ensuring the garment retains the desired fit post-wash.

5. Pattern Adjustments Post-Wash

• Pattern Revisions: After washing, assess whether measurements have changed due to shrinkage or other factors and make necessary adjustments to maintain the desired fit.
• Grading Revisions: Similar to pattern adjustments, grading (creating multiple sizes) may require revisions to preserve intended measurements.

6. Quality Control at Every Stage

• Measurement Checks: Continuously measure garments against specifications to identify and address any deviations.
• Documentation: Thoroughly document measurements, deviations, and quality checks to establish a historical record for analysis and quality assurance.
• Feedback Loop: Implement a feedback system to facilitate communication regarding measurement deviations and quality issues, enabling timely corrective actions.

7. Technology Integration

• 3D Body Scanning: Leverage 3D body scanning technology to capture precise body measurements for patterns that ensure an optimal fit, particularly useful for custom or tailored denim.
• Digital Pattern Making: Utilize digital pattern-making software to create and adjust patterns with precision, reducing errors compared to manual methods.

8. Continuous Improvement

• Data Analysis: Analyze measurement data to identify trends and areas for process enhancement, guiding decisions for improvement.
• Training Programs: Offer ongoing training to keep employees updated on the latest techniques and technologies in measurement control.

9. Supplier Collaboration

• Fabric Specifications: Collaborate closely with fabric suppliers to specify denim fabric characteristics, such as weight, stretch, and shrinkage potential, ensuring they meet the requirements for the intended garment.

Mastering these practices demands technical expertise, meticulous attention to detail, and an unwavering commitment to precision. By implementing these best practices and comprehending their technical underpinnings, newcomers to denim garment manufacturing can contribute to the production of high-quality denim products that align with customer expectations.In an era of heightened e-commerce scrutiny, mastering measurement control is essential for success in the fashion industry.