Maan Gaye Ustad! Al Ustad - This Iranian restaurant in Dubai is not only about its tasty food…

Dubai Diary 2:

'Agar firdaus bar ru-ye zamin ast?/ Hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast !' - (If there is heaven on earth / It is this, it is this, it is this!)…

My eyes were practically closed, and I was humming the couplet with absolute bliss. I was having a meal at Al Ustad Special Kabab Restaurant in Dubai and was not inside the inner courtyard of the world-famous Diwan-e-Khas of the Red Fort of Delhi where this oft-quoted couplet was inscribed.

Al Ustad is a widely known Persian Kabab Restaurant in the congested part of the Al Hamriya area of Al Fahidi district of Bur Dubai and serves some of the best kababs in Dubai. This part of Al Hamriya, slightly away from the Al Seef promenade built in traditional Arabic style, is not the place you would find on postcards from Dubai, a city tantamount to superlative skyscrapers and excesses. Situated close to the street leading to the Dubai Creek in Western Dubai, it's a neighbourhood of immigrants, mainly from South Asia and the neighbouring states of the Middle East. Rows of short, stocky, off-white, and yellowish apartment blocks line the harried streets, paint peeling off their rusted entry gates. Bicycles lean against the dusty gas cylinders; men in Pathan suits gather at shops for glasses of masala chai and long chats with their friends during late evenings. Clothes hang off balconies, drying over aging air-conditioning units. Small hardware shops, grocery stores, butcheries, cafeterias, salons, and Thai spas are scattered among the residential buildings. Dubai's well-heeled residents seldom come to this part of town except for custom tailoring, gold jewellery, or a steaming skewer of kababs from Al Ustad Restaurant.

Like many in India, I grew up with the Kabab traditions offered by the Nizam's in Kolkata, Karim's in Nizamuddin in old Delhi, and Delhi Darbar of the Grant Road fame in South Mumbai. Al Ustad's kababs surpass them in their textures, tones, hues, and tastes. The authentic Iranian kababs. And you can accept my opinion on this. Because I had also been to Tehran and had had great Iranian kababs.

And, while talking about Iranian cuisine, do you know that Jalebi, Gajak, and Peda came to India from Iran...during Mughal rule? Oh yes. All these desi sweets came with the Mughals. And, of course, adapted into the subcontinental cuisine.

To me, Al Ustad was one of the best and most unique kebab experiences in Dubai that were both tantalizing to the taste buds and a feast for the eyes. Each kebab was marinated in a different blend of spices and grilled over charcoal in an Iranian style, my favourite being the white one marinated in yogurt. A bit pricey if you compared it to other mix-grill platters offered around but definitely worth every dirham you spend. I advise you to order a small plate of hummus or Garlic paste on the side to balance your palette.

Started by now deceased Mohammed Ali Ansari 45 years ago, the restaurant in Dubai is famous for its yogurt-marinated chicken and mutton kababs, unique interior decoration, and the friendly family who runs it. The ambiance of the main hall of the eatery was cozy, with thousands of photos of famous and not-so-famous people lining the walls, with antiques and old musical instruments strewn all around, giving the place an inviting, warm, and homely atmosphere. Each table has various currencies of different countries tucked under the glass, supposedly a charm meant to bring in good business. The restaurant has a separate dining area for the families as well.

Adapting the modern communication system, the brothers Majeed, Talib, and Abbas, the founder's sons, use a short-range walkie-talkie system to coordinate among their dining halls, kitchens, and service bay.

The Ansari brothers are proud of the restaurant's food and legacy. However, ask diners, and they will reply that they return to this place not only for its delectable aroma of food but also for the fun atmosphere. The brothers are constantly on the circulation among the customers, chatting them up, embracing them, and cracking jokes. The three brothers speak several languages, including Arabic and Farsi - their native tongues, English, Malayalam, Hindi, Punjabi, and French.

This Bur Dubai restaurant has attracted royalty and celebrities from the Middle East and South Asia for more than four decades. And it is probably past the point where it needs to be reviewed.

If you are a tourist or visiting for work, I would recommend you try it once just for the experience of it - the ambiance, location, and the vibe, if not for the food

And, say…Maan Gaye Ustad…Hats off to you Ustad…(end)

#food #dubai #culture #people #customerfocus