A Look at Designer Tenures, Kenneth Ize's Next Move, California's Fur Ban, and More
Today, WWD is analyzing the average length of designer tenures at Europe’s heritage houses. Also, get an exclusive look at Kenneth Ize's next move. Plus, read all the details on California's fur?ban and Dior Men and ERL's worldwide expansion plans.
Given creative vacancies at megabrand Gucci and?Louis Vuitton’s men’s department, another game of high-level musical chairs could ensue in 2023, further shortening the average length of designer tenures at Europe’s heritage houses.
A WWD analysis of designer appointments shows that half the creative directors at roughly 40 houses have been in their positions for five years or less.
One prominent Paris academic suggests that fashion seems to be moving toward a “biennale model,” wherein designers cycle in and out of brands for brief “interventions” rather than in-depth explorations and deep change.
Read on here for the full story.
Anti-fur activists started initiating bans in the state as far back as 2011, when?West Hollywood?passed an anti-fur ordinance that eventually went into effect in 2013. It was followed a few years later by Berkeley, San Francisco and then Los Angeles. The fur bans don’t include selling used and vintage furs.
Until this year, Beverly Hills, which has its own city government, had been the go-to spot for fur sales after Los Angeles banned fur sales in 2021. That is no longer the case with the statewide ban.
But many people are not happy about the ban. “Ninety percent of the people on the street will tell you that this is ridiculous,” claimed Doug Fine, a salesperson at Flier Furs, a small, family owned, 90-year-old fur store in Beverly Hills. “We don’t know how this will affect us.”
Read on here for the full story.
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The Nigerian designer revealed he was taking a break in a brief Instagram post on July 23, and was a no-show at Paris Fashion Week in the fall.
In his first interview on the subject, Ize told WWD he stopped working with Roberta Annan, the founder and managing partner of the Impact Fund for African Creatives, or IFFAC, and is hoping to relaunch this year on his own terms.?After struggling initially to digest the setback, he said he was feeling energized and ready to bring new ideas to the table.
Read on here for the full story.
Kim Jones is taking his California dream on the road with a series of pop-ups worldwide that will showcase the?Dior?Men’s 2023 resort collection, a glittering rainbow of a collaboration with Eli Russell Linnetz’s?ERL.
The first shop will open Thursday at?Dover Street Market?in London, with a party hosted by Jones. The DSM pop-up runs until Jan. 19, with others opening in the meantime.
Read on here for the full story.
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