On The Line - K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? Border Crossing (Lost Lands #169)
I have come to realize that traveling in the lost lands beyond Hungary's borders is like running a marathon. The finish line is in sight only to grow more distant with every step forward. I am no closer to finishing this itinerary than I was several weeks ago. I still have not managed to cover the distance between Arad and Oradea. That is by design. I continue to discover places that I never knew existed by taking detours. And when I take one, I begin to look for another. I never expected to find so many places worth visiting on the frontiers of western Romania. The latest was Koleser Vardomb, which consists of impressions on the earth of an old fortification. There is no road, no visitor information, and the only photo I could find was a still image captured off a Google map. That is just enough to go on, and still Koleser Vardomb is a mystery. One that I hope to find answers to during my visit.?
Stop & Go - Less Than Free Movement
Leaving Koleser Vardomb behind, I am now making a run for the Romania-Hungary border. I am heading deeper into the frontiers of western Romania than ever before. My initial destination is the tongue twisting K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? border crossing. Those names are more than a mouthful. The Hungarian language has a way of making what should be simple, very complex. Before locating it on the map, I had never heard of this border crossing. I doubt many others have either except for those who live in the immediate area. The busiest crossing on the Romania-Hungary border is just 20 kilometers to the northeast at Bors. I have crossed the border at Bors on several occasions with short delays. That is not likely to be a problem for those who cross at K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel?. Though only a half-hour drive from Oradea, the crossing is as remote and rural as any in Romania or Hungary. It is one of those places that few give any thought to other than those who work in each country’s respective Ministry of the Interior.
My research on the crossing has not been easy. There is very little information available. I was forced to rely on newspaper articles written several years ago and a handful of reviews for the crossing to learn the basic details about K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel?. Thank goodness for the cut and paste keystroke options on my computer. I do not think I would have otherwise been able to spell the border crossing's name and search for it. Finding anything about K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? is about as easy as getting across the checkpoint. From what I learned, the crossing did not open until 2017. As Romania was moving closer to entering the Schengen Zone and dismantling border controls, a decision was made between Romania and Hungary to open more entry points along their border. This was in anticipation of a future of free movement.
Restrictive Entry – Blocking The Way
The border crossings were opened, but Romania’s entry into the Schengen Area continued to be delayed. It was only this year that Romania finally joined Schengen. Despite this, border control has not been taken down at road crossings. As for the K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? crossing, since it first opened in 2017 movement has been hindered by several factors. The biggest issue was the pandemic which led to closure of the crossing between March 2020 – July 2021. When it did finally open back up, crossings were only allowed on Saturdays. There was the added stipulation that only vehicles of 3.5 tons could cross. Furthermore, only Romanians and Hungarians were allowed to make the crossing. Foreigners would have to try another point of entry. This probably affected very few foreigners since the crossing is in such a remote area. The vagaries of border control fascinate me. This K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? was the most restrictive I have come across in this past of Europe.
From what little I could find about the current status of the crossing, the same restriction of Saturday only crossings may still be in place. That is if the crossing is open at all. My research uncovered conflicting information. Photos of the crossing online show a paved highway near the K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? that dead ends into grass. Obviously, that would close the crossing. Another photo I found was of a view looking into Romania from the Hungarian side of the border. This one shows the area where the highway should have been in Hungary covered with grass. On the Romanian side, cement blocks were placed across the end of the road. This is a rather novel idea of border control. For those in vehicles, it would be quite effective. I am not so sure about anyone else. The overall point seems to be that very few will try to cross there. Those who do will see the barriers and head to another crossing point.?
Enduring Fantasy – Realizing A Dream
Whatever the current status of the K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? crossing, sometime in 2025 the border between Romania and Hungary will open for free movement. This will be a historic moment in the relations between two countries that have been divided by the legacy of Trianon since 1920. They say time heals all wounds, in the lost lands that is not always true. A century has passed and for many the wounds are still raw, particularly for ethnic Hungarians. Nevertheless, the fact that travelers and commerce will be able to flow across the border without hindrance is remarkable. That is a milestone worth celebrating.
As for me, I hope to get as close as I can to the K?r?snagyharsány - K?r?sszeg Határátkel? crossing point. I love remote border outposts because the officials tend to be more relaxed and wait times are less. Plus, I have an enduring fantasy of working at one. A fantasy where I would spend the rest of my work life meeting strangers and reading history during down times. There is nothing like the idea of spending a lunch break on walks along the border inspecting the boundary stones set after the Treaty of Trianon went into effect. That is living history, past, present, and future. For some, it is not just a dream, it is reality.