Let’s shift the narrative on labor rights in Bangladesh

A new report claims that major textile and garment-producing countries, including Bangladesh, are among the worst ten in the world for workers’ rights. The International Trade Union Confederation’s (ITUC) Global Rights Index 2024 claims there have been year-on-year record highs in workers’ rights violations worldwide, with every region scoring below their 2014 baselines.

In Bangladesh, the report claims that, “for years, Bangladeshi workers have faced severe state repression, including violent crackdowns on peaceful protests by the notorious Industrial Police, and intimidation aimed at preventing the formation of unions.”

The report makes a number of other claims about Bangladesh, including that union activity is obstructed and blocked within Bangladesh’s eight Export Processing Zones. It claims, “attempts by the 4.5 million workers in these zones to peacefully demand improved working conditions are often violently obstructed by the country’s Industrial Police force.”

How seriously should we take this report and what does it tell us about Bangladesh? The first thing I would say is how disappointing it is that so many reports focus only on the negatives in Bangladesh and other apparel sourcing destinations.

No sooner had the ITUC release its report than the trade media has gone into overdrive to emphasize the lack of progress by garment and textile hubs such as Bangladesh on worker rights.

But this is simply unfair and does not account for the fact that Bangladesh has actually been moving forwards on labor rights issues in the past few years. This is despite continued downward pressure on garment prices and poor purchasing practices from international brands and retailers.

In fact, since 2010, Bangladesh has introduced several garment worker rights laws and reforms in response to various labour issues and international pressure. Here I will outline ten legislative and regulatory measures, but I can assure readers there haven a great many more:

1. Bangladesh Labour Act Amendments (2013). This saw the minimum wage for garment workers was significantly increased. It also led to easier unionization. It meant that requirements for forming trade unions were relaxed, reducing the percentage of workers needed to form a union from 30 to 20 per cent. Likewise, the Act Amendments saw the introduction of enhanced provisions for worker safety, health, and welfare, including maternity benefits.

2. The National Tripartite Plan of Action on Fire Safety and Structural Integrity (NTPA) (2013). This was a comprehensive plan involving the government, employers, and workers' organisations to improve safety standards in the garment sector.

3. Bangladesh Labour Rules (2015). These detailed rules, brought in to implement the Labour Act amendments, covered areas such as worker safety, compensation, and grievance mechanisms.

4. Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh (2013). Though not a law, this legally binding agreement between global brands and trade unions aimed to ensure a safe and sustainable garment industry. It mandated independent inspections and remediation of factories.

5. Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety (2013). This was another initiative similar to the Accord, led by North American brands, focused on improving safety in garment factories.

6. Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) (2017). This was established by the government to coordinate and oversee the remediation process of factories identified under the Accord and Alliance initiatives.

7. Amendments to Bangladesh Labour Act (2018). These amendments saw labour laws strengthened in a number of ways. Grievance resolution laws were strengthened, improving mechanisms for resolving worker grievances. Anti-harassment measures were brought in to prevent harassment and violence in the workplace. The changes also saw enhanced occupational safety and health provisions.

8. Labour Welfare Foundation Act (2006, Implemented in 2013). Though enacted in 2006, the effective implementation of this law was in 2013, creating a welfare fund for workers financed by contributions from the government, employers, and other sources.

9. National Industrial Safety and Health Council (2018). This law was established to promote occupational safety and health standards across industries, including the garment sector.

10. Establishment of Safety Committees (2019). This mandated the formation of Safety Committees in all factories with more than 50 workers to ensure compliance with safety standards and address safety concerns.

How many of these improvements to labour laws in Bangladesh have the international media reported on? Apart from the Bangladesh Accord and Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, I have seen very little media exposure relating to the strengthening of domestic labour laws in Bangladesh.

We should also remember that as well as the above laws, garment factories are under continued pressure to meet the sustainability and corporate social responsibility targets of brands and retailers. At an individual level, many factory owners are making improvements on labour rights. The factory owners I know an speak to care deeply for their workers.

Also to add, garment factories in Bangladesh are probably among the most audited in the world. They come under extreme and continued scrutiny. For everything they might get wrong, I can guarantee they will get another 99 things right. And yet, the focus is always on the wrong.

As I so often say, we have to change the narrative here. Factories in Bangladesh – indeed, factories across all of the Global South – are under pressure to cut prices continually. The buyer-supplier relationship is so often unequal.

The fact that in Bangladesh, our garment industry manages to do this while still providing meaningful work and adhering to international standards for worker rights is no mean feat. It is a cause for celebration. Perhaps it’s time to focus on that instead to cherry-picking negative aspects and focusing solely on areas which need improvement.

Mostafiz Uddin is the managing director of Denim Expert Limited. He is also the founder and CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo and Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE).