LEADERSHIP and ENDURANCE - A NOLS BACK COUNTRY SKI TRIP

BACK COUNTRY WINTER SKI TRIP

TOGWOTEE PASS ALONG THE CONTINETAL DIVIDE

BACK COUNTRY WINTER SKI TRIP

TOGWOTEE PASS ALONG THE CONTINETAL DIVIDE

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Southwest side of the Shashone National Forest

Wyoming USA

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10 YEARS REFLECTION:

The area that we were dropped from the NOLS bus was at an altitude of 9543 ft on Togwotee Pass along the Continental Divide.? We unpacked all our gear from the bus and van and made organized piles as we were beginning to assemble into our expedition.? The gear that we unload seemed massive and was seriously setting in on all of our team members what we were doing, leaving a perfectly warm environment to venture out into a deep freezer minus 20 weather with snow in the forecast.

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The snowfall at that time was 9’ or approximately 109” deep.? The snow was packed and it made a quick and easy movement as we skied on top of the surface, pulling our sleds strapped to our hips with a harness.? It was amazing that we stayed on the surface. ?the skis kept us on the surface.

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It was a Saturday, December 7, 2013.? The week prior to our departure this cold morning was filled with Avalanche Curriculum, like the Power Point program that Lauren shared with me.? The Week was filled with Telemark lessons and winter adaptation and preparation for the harsh climate that we were about to live in.? Yes LIVE IN IT, no turning in for a quick snooze on the sofa or a hot chocolate. ?

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We reviewed our gear and sled and how to pack for the trip.? We were taking a day pack on our backs for what we needed during the day, food, snacks and drink.? The sled was packed with our rations, tents, whisper jets, clothes and ?tools needed for our winter experience.? We talked about

Cold injuries

Getting ready for bed

Bootie System?

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So here we are after a week if planning and training, all in a row Telemark skiing along the Continental Divide. ?

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The first day was short and we may have skied 4-5 miles in some tough terrain.? The group was a varied mix of ability.? Some of our team had to remove the sled when we were descending on a steep mountain side and let our instructors take their sled. ?

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Skiing in the cold brought our body temperature to a comfortable temperature and the scenes were beautiful.? Untouched.

LEARNING EXPEDITION BEHAVIOR (EB)

Itinerary for Winter Ski Expedition

Backcountry Skiing in Togwatee Pass along the Continental Divide:

Trailhead along WY Route 26/287; Roadside Trailhead

?December 1-16th, 2013

?Dec 1st???????? Pick up from canyons and drive to Willow Park, UT and spend the night.

Dec 2nd?????? Drive to NOLS Teton Valley Branch, ID (access to phone, showers and laundry).

Dec 3rd-6th Learn about avalanche risk management and practice skiing while staying at the branch.

Dec 7th?????????? Depart for the Wyoming Range, WY to begin your winter section.

Dec 16th ???? Drive from your winter course trailhead back to Lander. Stay at Noble Hotel.

Dec 17th??? De-issue at 9:00, semester debriefing @ 1:30, graduate @ 6:00. Family members welcome to attend banquet.

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·??????? Duration: 11-15 days

·??????? Route length: approximately 10-15 miles

·??????? Skills: backcountry ski touring and winter camping

·??????? Avalanche awareness curriculum

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Practical benefits to winter camping:

·??????? Many backcountry climbing, hiking and skiing objectives can’t be reached in one day. For many skiers and snowboarders, finding untracked powder may be a rare treat, and winter camping makes this the norm.

·??????? Being eaten alive—whether it’s by bugs or most other animals—isn’t a concern. This makes campsite set up slightly easier, since you don’t have to establish a bear triangle.

·??????? Considering you’re living in a constant freezer, food options increase significantly. “One of my favorite things about winter camping is being able to eat pretty much whatever you want, because everything freezes,” explains Katie. “Anything from the frozen food aisle is fair game—fries, pizza rolls,?bacon, you name it.”

·??????? How to Dress for Winter

·??????? Layering is the key to staying comfortable! Photo by Wilson Cheung.

·??????? Staying warm is the name of the game while winter camping. The elements are working against you, and it takes discipline to stay ahead of the cold.

·??????? With so much variation from individual to individual, it can be tricky to dial in layering. What may leave one person comfortable could leave another too sweaty—which can spell disaster in the winter. It’s important to dress like an onion to trap body heat between layers.

·??????? Base layer

·??????? Generally, start with a quick drying, moisture-wicking base layer to help pull sweat away from your body and help with thermoregulation. This layer should be slightly fitted, as to make contact with your skin and actually wick away moisture.

·??????? Cotton should always be avoided in cold temperatures, as it absorbs moisture, loses its insulating qualities, and won’t dry quickly. Nylon and polyester are common choices, and their ability to wick moisture will depend on the weave and quality of fabric. Merino wool is also a good option, but can be expensive and less durable than synthetic materials.

·??????? Middle layer

·??????? The next layer of the onion is a mid-layer, such as a light fleece or small puffy jacket. If you’re doing vigorous physical activity during the day in good weather conditions, this may also be your outer layer.

·??????? Outer layer

·??????? Depending on weather, your outer layer will either be a waterproof shell or insulated puffy jacket to trap heat and protect you from wind and precipitation.

·??????? “It's nice to have a shell that can fit over a lot of layers of clothing,” explains Katie. “I usually bring three puffy jackets: a lighter puffy, a mid puffy, and a super big synthetic puffy you can put over everything. Down is fine too, but if it gets wet and if it's not treated, it will lose its ability to insulate you.”

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GEAR TO PACK:

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Gear:? We shared the labor of carrying the equipment by delegating this out.? I learned earlier in the Backpacking section to be careful on how much I carry.? This expedition is different as we have a sled to pull and it is much easier than carrying a 65 pound pack at 125 lb.

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1)??? Group:

a.????? Winter tent without a base

b.???? Sleeping bag for -20°

c.????? 2 stoves per group of 4

d.???? 4 fuels per group of 4

e.????? 1 pot/1fry pan

f.?????? Maps & compass

g.????? Shovels and potty shovel

h.???? Fire Starters

i.?????? 15-20’ rope

j.?????? Knife

k.???? Lighter

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Clothes:? We packed our clothes in a big sled duffle bag in September and it was waiting for us in DRIGGS, ID.? Extra layer of protection, pack these items in separate large GALLON zip-lock backs, especially the socks.

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1)??? Packing list:

a.????? Underwear 2 pairs

b.???? Lightweight long johns

c.????? Mid/heavyweight long johns

d.???? Ski panbts/Wind Pants/Soft Shell Pants

e.????? Puff Pants

f.?????? Boots

g.????? Slip-ons for night pees

2)??? Tops:

a.????? Long Sleeve lightweight top

b.???? Long Sleeve mid/heavyweight top

c.????? Thinner fleece jacket

d.???? Puffy Jacket

e.????? Rain Jacket

f.?????? SOCKS 6 (keep a pair in your sleeping bag)

3)??? Personal:

a.????? Skies

b.???? Sled and harness

c.????? Daypack

d.???? Headlamp and extra batteries

e.????? Drinking container - thermol

f.?????? Toothpaste and brush

g.????? Sunscreen

h.???? Chapstick

i.?????? Wipes

4)??? wool or fleece hat balaclava synthetic liner gloves midweight insulated ski gloves (2) heavyweight down mittens waterproof overmitts sun hat or visor bandanna

5)??? Footwear insulated camp booties waterproof hiking or snowshoeing boots (insulated is best) wool or synthetic socks (one pair for every day or two, plus an extra pair for sleeping only) liner socks (2)

6)??? Accessories wool or fleece hat balaclava synthetic liner gloves midweight insulated ski gloves (2) heavyweight down mittens waterproof overmitts sun hat or visor bandanna

7)??? Footwear insulated camp booties waterproof hiking or snowshoeing boots (insulated is best) wool or synthetic socks (one pair for every day or two, plus an extra pair for sleeping only) liner socks (2)

8)??? Gear internal or external frame backpack convertible or four-season tent sleeping bag (-30° to 0°F) inflatable sleeping pad closed-cell foam sleeping pad collapsible snow shovel trekking poles white-gas stove and fuel bottles lighter and waterproof matches cookset eating utensils, bowl, and insulated mug headlamp w/extra batteries and bulb 32-oz. water bottles (2) water bottle parkas (2) vacuum-insulated bottle for hot drinks pocketknife or multitool compass or GPS (and map) sunglasses goggles first-aid kit with personal medications chemical heat packs assorted zipper-lock bags stuffsacks sunscreen (SPF 45+) lip balm (SPF 15+) toilet paper

9)??? Consider towing sled or toboggan metal tray or lid for firebuilding avalanche beacon and probe ice axe crampons pee bottle personal locator beacon

Outerwear Winter pants (ski or snowboard pants, bibs, shell) Winter shell jacket/ parka (layer with vest, sweater, tee shirt, etc.) Gloves (leather or nylon covered for water resistance, NOT just fleece) Mittens (warmer than gloves) with waterproof shells Winter Hat (very important) Balaclava and/or neck gaiter Winter boots (Sorel’s or similar, NOT just summer weight hiking boots) Gaiters (sometimes the snow is DEEP) Miscellaneous Gear Day pack with the 10 essentials The Ten Essentials for Hiking/Backpacking The "Ten Essentials" is a list of items that can save your life in the event of an outdoor emergency. You probably don't need these items on a Greenways walk or urban hike but we strongly urge you to carry them with you on any backcountry outing. Consider the Ten Essentials as an insurance policy against the unexpected. You will not use these items on every trip but at some point during your hiking career you will be glad you have them along. Ten Essentials (per the Sierra Club, your list may vary) 1. Map 2. Compass 3. Flashlight/headlamp (be sure to have an extra set of batteries that fit your flashlight/headlamp) 4. Extra food (enough for one extra day) 5. Extra clothing 6. Rain gear ( jacket and pants-always carry rain gear even if the sun is out) 7. First aid supplies (be sure to include an extra day of any medication you are taking or might need in an emergency) 8. Pocket knife 9. Matches (stored in a water tight container in addition to matches or a butane lighter) (NR = not required) 10. Fire starter (can be candles, chemical fire starter, backpack size fire logs) (NR) For a more detailed discussion on the Ten Essentials, go to: https://www.twohikers.org/Gear/TenEssentials.htm Other Essentials 11. Space blanket (used as windbreaker, heat reflector, signaling device) 12. Sunglasses or goggles (to protect against sunblindness) 13. Toilet paper 14. Extra socks/liners 15. Head covering (for rain/warmth, see HAT above) 16. Duct tape (1001 uses; try bringing about 3 feet of this, not a whole roll) 17. Insect repellent (NR) 18. Iodine tablets or water pump (carry extra water if water location is a potential problem) 19. Trash bag (for dirty or wet clothes or boots) 20. "In case of emergency" card (list name and number to call in an emergency, medications, medical conditions and whether or not you are a contact lenses wearer). You may want to pack your driver's license and insurance card in a plastic bag for protection. ? Water bottle (Nalgene type) plus spare if you want a hot water bottle in your bag at night. ? Insulated drinking cup (coffee travel mug) ? Mess kit items (fork, spoon, bowl at a minimum) ? Sunscreen ? Personal items (toothbrush & paste at a minimum) Hints: ? Plan for and Cook one pot meals (less mess to clean up) ? Prepare foods in advance at home, as much as possible. That means precook your meats, chop your vegetables, slice or shred your cheese, etc. ? Use ziploc bags (all sizes) for food, small items, clothing, gear, whatever. ? Use this checklist as you pack your gear. ? Talk to your parents about what you have already, what you might be able to borrow, what you need to buy in advance, and then take care of all that IN ADVANCE, NOT the night before we leave on the

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After outfitting winter clothing, alpine-touring (AT) ski equipment, and high-calorie rations at our base in Lander, Wyoming, you’re off to the backcountry. You’ll first learn the basics of skiing with a sled, snow camping, and winter ecology, as well as how to manage a group in avalanche terrain. You will sleep in snug snow shelters that you and your coursemates will learn to construct.?

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Camp chores will take up a big portion of your days. Melting snow for water, digging avalanche “test pits,” and staying warm and dry are time-consuming activities. Once you become efficient at these tasks, you’ll devote more time to teaching classes and skiing untracked slopes. If weather and snow conditions permit, you may have the opportunity for a winter peak ascent.?

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Classes on avalanche science and forecasting focus on the surrounding terrain, weather conditions and changes, and snowpack assessment; experience and practice

are necessary to refine your judgment. A significant portion of the winter curriculum focuses on avalanche assessment and rescue techniques.

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How to Pick a shelter for Winter

Photo by Zach Snavely.

Your shelter can make or break your winter camping experience. Less daylight and snow storms can lead to long periods of time inside.

Winter camping has several options for shelters:

4-Season tent

4-season tents are specially designed for winter conditions. Made with heavy duty materials, strong poles, and thick walls, they can withstand strong winds and snow accumulation. Walls typically lack many ventilation options in order to trap body heat. A large vestibule is a nice addition to store gear.

3-Season tent

3-season tents are typically lighter and have plenty of options for ventilation such as flaps or mesh walls. The walls will be thinner than a 4-season tent. They aren’t designed for winter conditions, but can work well in milder winter weather.

Snow shelter

Building a snow shelter can be a viable option for a winter camper. They are time consuming to build, so Katie typically only builds them if she plans on staying at one campsite for a number of days.

Snow acts as a great insulator, and snow shelters can be surprisingly cozy inside. (Read more about snow shelters.)

Making Camp

Your campsite will be your one refuge from bitter cold winter conditions, and your life will be much easier if you take the time to pack down tent areas and build high snow walls to protect your shelter from high winds.

You won’t be able to pound stakes into dirt, but you can secure your tent using buried stuff sacks, small sticks, or other camp items you aren't using.

Katie reflects that “Something students often enjoy is that, in the snow they can make whatever they want, whether it’s benches, a fire meeting place, snow shelters, or kitchens.?You can totally customize your own campsite.”

For kitchen sites, group kitchens tend to work well. NOLS students build them on courses by mounding up a big area of snow, letting it sit for an hour or so, then diggging out a long rectangular mound. After that, you can shovel out countertops or dig personal, in-cut "shelves" into the mound

How to Sleep Warm

NOLS students gather around a fire during their backcountry ski course. Photo by Nate Eldridge.

Picking the correct shelter is only half the battle. What will you need stay warm when you’re sleeping in your tent, especially if your clothing gets damp during the day from sweat or snow?

Bring two sleeping bags

Down or synthetic sleeping bags are fine, though it's important to be aware that down bags won't insulate if they get wet. Because of that, they require careful care with packing.

For Katie, she recommends using two sleeping bags: “I’ll usually put a smaller 10-degree down bag inside a 0-degree synthetic bag that is a little longer. That system is really warm, and then you can dry clothes between the two bags. Plus, you can probably use sleeping bags you already have (or can borrow), versus needing to buy one really warm sleeping bag that you only use in the winter."

Bring two sleeping pads

If you bring two pads, we recommend using an inflatable pad on top of a foam pad.

A pad with a higher R-value will mean more insulation, but more weight as well. If you bring two pads, you probably won't need to invest in a pad specially-designed for winter. (Get more detailed info on sleeping warm.)

Cooking and Nutrition in Winter

Falafel made on a camp stove. Photo by Pete Rozeboom

On a normal winter day you’re probably burning 4000-5000 calories.You'll need to snack pretty frequently to stay on top of the calories you're burning—plus, consuming calories helps your body stay warm. On top of that,?planning?and cooking good, solid meals will help you stay warm and be a big morale booster!

Cooking in the winter has a few extra complications to consider:

·??????? All the water you consume will have to be melted from snow.

·??????? Moist food will turn into solid block if you aren’t careful.

·??????? Even though they are bulkier and more time consuming to set up, white gas stoves are preferred. Propane and isobutane canister stoves simply don’t work well in freezing temperatures.

So, what do to? Calculate how much fuel to pack (likely more than you'd need for a trip in warm weather) and be careful about which food you pack (dried items like pasta, or freezing burritos ahead of time to thaw later, are great options).

For NOLS winter courses, we bring 2 Whisperlite stoves per 2-4 person cooking group and pack ? liter of white gas per stove, per day. Then we bring extra, because no one wants to run out of fuel in the winter.

"If you bring two stoves, you can dedicate one pot to making hot water, and the other stove to cooking the meal,” says Katie.

Before going to bed, Katie recommends melting water, then storing it in a square of snow cut out from the snow kitchen counter. Snow makes a great insulator, so the water won't freeze overnight. That way, you'll have water ready to go for?hot coffee?in the morning.

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Winter First Aid Concerns

Hypothermia?and?frostbite?are the primary concerns in any cold-weather environment. For these, as with any medical concern, prevention is key, which you can do by staying warm and actingbefore?you start to feel cold.

Katie says “If you’re cold, do something about it! Eating food, drinking warm water, and exercising are probably the fastest ways to warm up.”

Dehydration is as much a concern in cold environments as it is in hot places. Cold temperatures suppress thirst, and dehydration can easily sneak up on you. “One of the best ways to battle dehydration is to drink a whole liter within an hour of waking up. Regardless if you peed or not at night, you still haven’t drunk water in about 10 hours.”

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Hauling a Sled

Hauling a sled is a common practice for extended overnight winter expeditions, regardless of what’s on your feet. For NOLS courses, says Katie, “We’re usually carrying a small backpack, around 40 liters, that only weighs around 15 pounds with snacks, water, and warm clothing. You have a plastic sled with a waist belt with long poles connecting to the sled behind you, with a big duffle bag that could weigh 60-70 pounds. But hauling a 70 pounds in sled is a lot easier than carrying it on your back.”

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Food we ate and water we boiled:

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We function best as baby seals do, with a healthy layer of winter fat. To this end,? munch on super-duper calorie-dense energy-rich snacks before we get going, like trail mix, homemade oatmeal cookies packed with goodies like walnuts, and other favorites that don’t squish in a backpack or freeze easily.

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Weather

Weather in the mountains is unpredictable. You’ll learn to live comfortably outside in blizzards, rainstorms, and high winds. Cold and snowy conditions can occur any month of the year, and you will likely spend some time camping on snow throughout your semester.

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Terrain

You may be bushwhacking off-trail through thick vegetation, scrambling over refrigerator-sized boulders, or battling sleet. Rivers are icy from snowmelt and can be difficult or impossible to cross. You may have to traverse slopes of loose rock and carry a heavy backpack up steep passes.

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Remoteness

Identifying and managing the risks from hazards—such as falling rock, stormy weather, animals, moving water, and steep terrain—will be a constant theme on your course. You’re often miles from the amenities of civilization, including medical care; telephones may be several days away. You are expected to demonstrate the highest regard for risk management in the field.?

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What are the most important attributes in extreme conditions:

1)??? Know where you are on a map – be present and alert at all times.? Nature is unpredictable

2)??? We believe positive, ethical leaders change the world. Join NOLS and become one of these leaders. (leadership rules)

3)??? Self-care is critical in all seasons, and its especially tricky in the winter (story of checking feet)

Camp?Like a?Cold-Weather Pro

4)??? Always Check Weather Conditions and Hazards. ...

5)??? Secure Your Campsite and Flatten Your Sleeping Surface. ...

6)??? Bring an Insulated, Closed-Cell Foam Sleeping Pad. ...

7)??? Insulate Your?Tent?by Reducing Ambient Space. ...

8)??? Warm Up With a Hot Water Bottle. ...

9)??? Stash Your Boot Liners in Your Bag.

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