Latest developments in the field of cosmetic ingredients

For the Dutch trade magazine ESTHé I I was asked what the latest developments are in the field of cosmetic ingredients and which technological possibilities we can expect a lot from. My contribution :

There are a number of trends in the beauty sector and what I currently focus on most in research and product development are the following:

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Sustainability in Ingredients and Packaging

A significant challenge because in the cosmetics sector sustainability is a complex issue with challenges and contradictory considerations.

One of the pitfalls is the phenomenon of 'greenwashing'; then companies pretend to be more sustainable than they really are, which is misleading for consumers. For example, some companies may include some organic ingredients in their formulation, while the rest of the formula is still environmentally harmful but claims to be organic.

What we mean by sustainable ingredients in cosmetics are ingredients that are chosen for their biodegradability, lower ecological footprint or ethical production methods.

Ingredients derived from plant sources (e.g. almond or jojoba oil) and botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile) are often considered sustainable due to their biodegradability. But the use of this does not really contain the innovation for cosmetic products. If the botanical extracts are from organic cultivation, then we have already gone one step further. A botanically active substance that is also of interest is Bakuchiol. It is a plant substance (Psoralea corylifolia plant) that behaves somewhat like retinol by accelerating cell turnover but, unlike retinoids, will not irritate the skin or increase sensitivity to sunlight.

Recycled or upcycled ingredients are also used here and there. These are, for example, ground residues from foodstuffs that are pressed into powders. Another example is Sesaqua; a new raw material using waste from sesame oil production. The sesame protein extracted from this food waste product is said to have a superior moisturizing and brightening effect, according to the Japanese producer.

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But sustainable ingredients can also be made through biotechnology.

Biotech ingredients are made in a laboratory from living, naturally derived substances. In this way, the natural resources normally required for agriculture are reduced to almost zero. We then ensure that plant cells, microbes or yeasts grow through a fermentation process, creating ingredients that are bioidentical to ingredients that occur in nature. Examples are bio-tech palm oil, hyaluronic acid, peptides and squalane. Even some essential oils can be made using biotechnology. To give an impression: To produce 1 kilo of rose essential oil, approximately 4 tons of rose petals are needed. Then it turns out that coming directly from nature is not as sustainable as you might initially think. Biotech ingredients therefore ensure the conservation of natural resources and it is a growing market.

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Transparency about our sustainability efforts and not making false claims is something I pay great attention to at Pascaud. For example, last year we launched a refill packaging for the cleanser that is 100% recyclable. That may not seem special, but until recently 100% recyclability was not possible. For example, if the packaging had a spout made of a different plastic, it was no longer fully recyclable.

The search for sustainable packaging is essential. There is experimentation with bioplastics and recycled materials, but there are challenges related to degradation and commercial availability.

And then the packaging dilemma between plastic and glass.

Plastic is sometimes criticized for its negative impact on the environment due to its long degradation process and microplastics as by-products of concern. But glass is energy-intensive in production, which in turn contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. In addition, glass is also heavier and therefore requires more energy to transport the weight.

So more than enough headaches and challenges….

Genomic skin care

DNA tests are increasingly being offered to map your genetic profile. A DNA test says something about your health predisposition and that information can be translated into your skin and beauty aspects that you can work on preventively. Skin care routines can then be adjusted based on your genetic profile.

[ For your information, at Pascaud Care we developed the My Skincaud DNA test in collaboration with Maastricht University?]

AI (Artificial Intelligence) is increasingly being used in various aspects of cosmetic product development. It can be used to improve efficiency, accuracy and innovation. For example, in the analysis of ingredients and formulation. AI can analyze an extensive database of raw materials and their properties and then suggest optimal combinations for a formulation. This can speed up the development process of new products. AI can also help with identifying sustainable and environmentally friendly ingredients.

Technology is therefore integrated into the development process of cosmetic products, but human expertise and especially creativity remain essential for successful and innovative product development.

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On the consumer side, we also see increasing use of Augmented Reality (AR)

This allows people to try out everything virtually, such as make-up but also skin care products. AI skin analyzes are also already being used.

Something I am currently looking into because it could be a solution or addition to large and expensive equipment that is now needed in the institute to map the customer's skin and work with before and after photos. With the help of AR technology, you can also visualize the results of treatments for the customer in advance. Something that gives them more insight into what treatment can bring them.

Companies like Perfect Corp. and Revieve build these types of applications for cosmetic brands.