Lashing The Waves – Crossing The Dardanelles (Istanbul & Everything After #17)

The past weighs so heavily on certain places, that when visiting them it is impossible to stay in the present. That is the effect the Dardanelles strait had on me. This treacherously narrow strait has been the setting for some of the most important events in world history. Our next stop after Gallipoli was the city of Canakkule which meant crossing the Dardanelles by ferry at its narrowest point. In doing so, would be following a path that led backward through thousands of years of history, both famous and infamous. It was a specific instance of the latter which informed my knowledge of the Dardanelles.

Crossover Appeal – The Hellespont

The Dardanelles does not have the name recognition in the western world that Gallipoli does, but it has been in the crosshairs of historic events on countless occasions. There are few geostrategic points on earth more important than the Dardanelles. Collisions between the Eastern and Western worlds, Asia and Europe, Christianity and Islam, the Greek and Persian worlds, the British and Ottoman Empires have all taken place in the strait’s turbulent waters. The Dardanelles has been the setting for battles in such defining historical events as the Persian Wars, the Peloponnesian War, and Mehmet the Conqueror’s campaign to tighten the noose around his ultimate objective of Constantinople. Geopolitical power has swayed wildly in its dark blue waters. The fate of empires and peoples have been decided by control of the strait that stretches a mere 61 kilometers (38 miles).

For the historically inclined, there are many starting points to choose from with the Dardanelles. Mine began at two very different places in the past. One personal, the other geopolitical. My personal history with the place began at Western Carolina University in an Ancient Greeks and Romans class in 1996. This was where I first became acquainted with Brian Walton, who would come to be my lifelong friend and mentor. Meeting Brian was as consequential to my life as the battle he assigned me to research was for the ancient Greeks. He tasked me with giving a presentation on the Battle of Salamis, an improbable victory by the Greeks over Persian forces that greatly outnumbered them. It was not the battle itself that fascinated me so much as the leadup to it. Specifically, the Persian crossing of the Hellespont (as the Dardanelles were known in classical times).

King Xerxes – A Storm Blows Up

I have always reserved a place in my memory for Xerxes. The reason for this is twofold. First, his name might be difficult to spell, but it has always been easy to remember. It is as close as anyone will ever get to a name that mimics the copymaker Xerox. Xerxes is not quite a copy (pun intended) of the name, but close enough. I am sure Xerxes would have me killed for making light of his name, but since he died 4,489 years ago, I will probably be ok. The second and main reason I have committed Xerxes to memory is due to his role in a story related by the father of history, Herodotus.

In 480 BC, the Persians carried out their second invasion of Greece. They were led by Xerxes, a despot whose flawed character would be one of the main reasons for their defeat at Salamis. He was arrogant, brutal, and capricious. Consumed by megalomania and absurd egotism, Xerxes was blind to hubris. Herodotus does an exceptional job delineating Xerxes’ character in anecdotes. Many have questioned whether these stories are true or not, but the overall effect of Herodotus’ tales is much more powerful than dry academic history that makes a fetish of footnotes. Brian and I both found Herodotus wonderful. We shared a love of stories, particularly those from classical times. Brian once told me that history was a child’s game. Coming from a Cambridge educated professional historian, I found this heartening rather than shocking. Brian had never lost his youthful love of history. Neither have I.

If history is a child’s game than Xerxes was the ultimate child actor with all the associated behavioral problems. Unlike historians such as Herodotus who told stories in colorful detail, Xerxes was playing the lead role in the Persian invasion. He was at the center of events and an event in and of himself. To cross the Hellespont from Asia to Europe, Xerxes had his men build pontoon bridges. He was used to his orders being followed. His men did their job, but the weather failed to cooperate. The Hellespont is notorious for its turbulent waters which are affected by a tempestuous climate. Sure enough, a storm destroyed the pontoon bridges. This infuriated Xerxes who in the terrible tradition of despotic behavior ordered the engineers who had overseen the construction to be executed. So far, so bad, but that was not enough to alleviate Xerxes’ fury.

Stormy Waters – A Natural Response

Xerxes was a man used to getting his way. Betrayal was to be punished, even if that betrayal was natural rather than human. To that end, Xerxes ordered punishment of the waters that had swallowed the pontoon bridges. The water was given 300 lashes with chains for daring to challenge the Persian King’s authority. They were then prodded with hot irons. The irons must have suffered a quick case of burn out. Xerxes was not satisfied. His lust for vengeance continued unabated. Handcuffs were tossed into the water to symbolize the sea’s submission to his authority. This still was not enough to alleviate Xerxes’ fury.

Someone had to be held responsible for the disaster. Xerxes was more than willing to sacrifice his own men to set an example. Thus, he ordered the engineers who had overseen the construction beheaded. After this incredible performance, the bridges were rebuilt over the chastened Hellespont. Xerxes had exercised his authority in the most absurd manner possible. Unfortunately, after losing the Battle of Salamis and returning to the Hellespont, the Persians discovered that the pontoon bridges had once again been destroyed by a storm. The Hellespont had a mind of its own. Xerxes had met his match. He would later be assassinated. I doubt the assassination was done on his authority. That is probably why it was successful.