Kolhapuri Footwear: A Cultural Staple with Modern Appeal

It is kind of impossible to think of Indian footwear without the iconic Kolhapuri chappal flashing across the movie reel of my mind. I don’t know a single Indian woman who doesn’t own a pair of Kolhapuri chappals…

Whether you are a student in Mumbai, an intern in Delhi, a researcher in Bangalore, or an associate in Chennai, if it is summer, you could always be traipsing about these cities in the staple summer ‘uniform’ of cotton kurti or tee-shirt, leggings or jeans, and Kolhapuri chappals.

But it wasn’t until that one summer day in Washington DC 20 years ago when I glanced into the window of a trendy little boutique and saw a pair of… good old desi ‘Kolhapuri chappals’ that I realized this ‘comfy desi’ look was in fact quite ‘global chic’.

How on earth did this humble Indian chappal make its way across the pond?

Kolhapuri Chappals: Walking Through History and Style

Kolhapuri chappals, a quintessential part of Indian footwear heritage, are renowned for their intricate craftsmanship and timeless appeal. Originating from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, these handcrafted leather sandals have walked through centuries of tradition and culture. Made using age-old techniques passed down through generations, Kolhapuri chappals are not just footwear but a symbol of India's rich artisanal legacy.

They’ve been made in pretty much the exact same way since, some believe, the 13th century. Hundreds of years ago, before we had the ‘chai’ and the ‘sari-blouse’ we had kolhapuri chappals. It started off with royals wearing them and then the wealthy… which trickled down to the masses. Over the centuries, the chappal has come to adorn and protect Indian feet across all divides.

Flat t-strap open sandals with a toe ring, traditionally made out of tanned leather, these chappals now come in several variations and designs including woven and braided leather, an array of colours, studded with jewels, and even stiletto heels.

Worn by men and women, the rich and the poor, the fashionable and the fashion-blind - Kolhapuri ‘chappals’ are ubiquitous across India.

Today, Kolhapuri chappals seamlessly blend tradition with contemporary fashion, gracing the feet of brides, models, and fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Their unique blend of comfort, durability, and aesthetic appeal makes them a beloved choice, showcasing the enduring charm and versatility of this iconic Indian footwear.

You will see them in the north and the south, in the slums and high rises, in colleges and at weddings, in movies on the silver screen and IRL (that’s ‘in real life’ I recently learned). You can hardly walk into a shoe store in India without tripping over a pair…

The Kolhapuri’s journey: From a street market in Mumbai to a trendy boutique in the US capital

The Kolhapuri chappal is as strong an icon of India as the sari, the Taj Mahal, the chicken tikka masala. It has every right to sail across oceans and proclaim its style statement at the world’s feet.

My great uncle loves to tell the story of how he would travel for hours on unpaved roads to get to the tiny town in Kolhapur where two brothers handcrafted the highest quality chappals he had ever seen. He engaged them to exclusively craft Kolhapuris for Regal Shoes – back in the ‘60s when Regal was a single store in Mumbai. Every month the brothers would come to Mumbai with cartloads of the chappals, which they sold to the brand for Rs 10 a pair, and were then sold to the world for Rs 12.

Or how he would custom-make Kolhapuris for Lata Mangeshkar. How Amitabh Bachchan would come to the store himself and to stock up on Kolhapuris - before he became a star and didn’t do his own shopping anymore, of course.

Celebrities, politicians, businessmen…. Bombayites from all walks of life would come to Regal Shoes and walk out with or in a pair of Kolhapuri chappals.

Today, Regal is still playing a part in pushing for its popularity – both among men and women - to keep the industry alive. The newest line of the kolhapuri sandals developed are made with premium super soft leather and lots of footbed padding, so they are as comfortable as the softest shoes of other styles.

Wearing a pair of Kolhapuris is like carrying with you a loving, protective piece of your heritage with you. They hold upon their soles the history of our nation, the skill of our craftsmen, and leave behind a footprint of our culture.