Khana Khazana : A Trail of Indian Food History

It is widely acknowledged that India is recognized as the most diverse country globally, encompassing a variety of ethnicities, languages, cultures, and cuisines. While the question of India's national dish remains unresolved, with khichdi being one suggested contender, a closer look at history reveals commonalities in cooking techniques, ingredients, and dishes passed down for centuries.

Lentils and a rich assortment of spices such as turmeric, ginger, and black pepper are among the key components that have prevailed over time. Throughout history, cereals (grains grown for their seeds) and pulses (edible legume seeds) have been fundamental crops in agricultural societies, providing a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates and proteins.

These staples have been crucial in different parts of the world, such as Mexico, where corn and beans are used, and in China, where barley and rice are combined with soybeans. Meat and fish, when accessible, have typically played a secondary role. At the same time, fruits, vegetables, and dairy products have complemented these staple foods by supplying essential vitamins and minerals for overall health.

In modern India, grains account for approximately 70% of the population's calorie intake, a testament to the enduring importance of agriculture. The types of grains cultivated and consumed have changed over time. Barley, one of the earliest grains, was domesticated in the Fertile Crescent around 12,000 years ago and was introduced to the Indus Valley through settlements in Baluchistan, specifically the village of Mehrgarh west of the Indus River. Archaeologists first excavated this site in 1974. Barley was the primary cereal consumed in India during the second millennium BCE (as mentioned in the Rig Veda), but its consumption is now minimal.

The Indus Valley Civilization, a marvel of its time, flourished between 3000-1500 BCE, covering over a million square kilometers at its peak and extending close to New Delhi. Archaeologists have unearthed over 1500 villages, small cities, and five major urban centers, including the well-known Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa, showcasing the civilization's advanced urban planning and grain production techniques. Today, much of the region is desert. Still, in ancient times, it was fertile and wooded, enabling the production of wheat and barley surpluses and the development of the technological expertise necessary for the transition to urban society. Wheat was likely milled and baked into bread in circular clay ovens, similar to modern tandoors.

Sugar was unknown at the time, and instead, sweetness was derived from various sources such as honey, dates, palm sugar, and fruits like jujube (ber), jamun, and mango. Fruits like pomegranates, grapes, apples, plums, apricots, nuts like pistachios, walnuts, almonds, and pine nuts were available from the highlands. The people of the Indus Valley cultivated lentils and pulses such as peas, chickpeas, and black and green gram.

Eastern regions grew coconut, bananas, jackfruit, and citrus fruits. Sea salt and rock salt were also accessible. Cooking was carried out using butter, mustard, and sesame seed oil. Apart from settled farmers, the Indus Valley Civilization included pastoral nomads who roamed with buffalo herds. Water buffalo played a vital role as a source of milk. Goats and sheep were raised for transportation, meat, dairy, and wool. It is believed that chickens were first domesticated in the Indus Valley Civilization around 2000 BCE and later spread globally.

In the southern region of the subcontinent, the valleys of the rivers Godavari, Krishna, Kaveri, and others were inhabited as early as the third millennium BC. During the Neolithic era (2800-1200 BCE), the primary food sources were local pulses and millets. Archaeological excavations show a cooking process involving extensive grinding and boiling. Cereals were milled into flour and combined with pulse flour to create the precursors of traditional South Indian dishes like idli, vadai, and dosa. The presence of large open bowls and pots suggests the preparation of flour-based porridge and communal meals.

Traditional grains like sorghum and millet thrived in poorer soils and arid climates in Western India. India was historically known for three native millet - kodo millet, browntop millet, and little millet. These were supplemented by varieties from Sub-Saharan Africa and potentially China, such as finger and pearl millets and sorghum, dating back to the second millennium BCE.

The popularity of millet for domestic consumption drastically declined after India experienced the Green Revolution in the 1970s, favoring softer, easier-to-use wheat that was seen as more contemporary. However, due to health concerns, there has been a recent resurgence of interest in these ancient grains. Some millet varieties have lower glycemic indices, making them a healthier option for individuals with diabetes. Presently, India is a global leader in millet production, with the majority cultivated in the country's western region.

Rice, the primary grain commonly eaten in Eastern and Southern India, has a rich history that is intertwined with the region's geography and culture. The origins of rice have been extensively researched and debated. It is believed that the domestication of rice likely began in the Pearl River Valley in China between 10,000 and 8000 BCE, leading to the cultivation of two main varieties: indica (long grain) and japonica (short grain).

By the third millennium BCE, rice cultivation had spread to Southeast Asia, Nepal, and India, influenced by factors such as trade routes and climatic conditions. Evidence suggests that a wild rice ancestor may have existed in the Ganges plain much earlier. Archaeological discoveries at Lahuradewa in Uttar Pradesh indicate the use of rice and pottery dating back to around 6400 BCE. Today, India is the world's second-largest rice producer, following China.

An essential aspect of Indian cuisine is the widespread consumption of lentils, which are not just a staple food but also a symbol of prosperity and good health. They are prepared in various ways, such as boiled (dal), with rice (khichdi), or as a seasoning, particularly in the southern region. Lentils grown in India have diverse origins: Pigeon peas (arhar dal) originated in Central India.

On the other hand, the journey of lentils to India is a fascinating historical narrative. Urad and mung dal were cultivated in the grasslands of South India around the third millennium BCE, adding to the rich tapestry of Indian cuisine. Chana dal, masur dal, green peas, and grass peas were introduced from Western Asia to the Indus Valley around the same time as wheat and barley, enriching the culinary landscape. Hyacinth beans and cowpeas likely arrived from the savannas of Africa to the grasslands of South India in the early second millennium BCE, further diversifying the lentil varieties in India.

Today, dal is a common element in many Indian dishes and comes in various forms, from the light masur dal of Bengali cuisine to the spicier sambars and rasam of the southern regions, as well as the rich dal makhani of Punjab. Khichdi, a dish made of cooked rice and lentils, is another popular food choice. In Bengal, it is enjoyed during the rainy season, while in other parts of the country, it is considered a comforting meal or suitable for those who are unwell.

Khichri, a dish deeply rooted in Indian culture, even evolved into the British dish kedgeree, once a traditional breakfast item in British country houses. This evolution of khichri into kedgeree is a fascinating example of the cultural exchange between India and Britain. Although the dish still features boiled rice, the lentils have been replaced with smoked fish and garnished with hard-boiled eggs.