Kashmir Ki Kali
Disclaimer - I was only there for 2 days. Was unwell - so couldn't get around or talk much. And, against my normal modus operandi while travelling alone, stayed in luxury properties (also a function of the person making the recommendations, Aman Soni). Be that as it may, my observations on the mess that is Kashmir...
- The Army is everywhere : the last time I saw such ubiquitous armed forces presence, was while travelling back and forth to Colombo in 1996 - at the peak of the civil war over there. Even the cops wear bulletproof padding and carry automatic weapons. And the army folks do everything, including manage traffic. I even bumped into them while strolling at 630am in Gulmarg - out for an early morning jog with an armoured vehicle for company
- They aren't popular amongst the locals They have an unenviable job. Shackled by politicians, unpopular with the locals (and deserve more support from their countrymen). Just a couple of stray remarks, gestures - from my driver when he cut in front of an army truck and from the shikara boatman - mentioning all nice places have been taken over by the army - when pointing out an iconic cafe of yesteryears. You can also sense a lot of anger. And the pride the locals have - there was a dispute about money with a local and he was happy to leave the money be rather than argue (which he considered beneath his dignity)
- There are no tourists : Everyone was at pains to let me know it was perfectly safe. And that even if trouble erupted, the locals would never harm tourists. Occupancy at the 2 properties I stayed in was ~10%. The shikara stands were deserted. Most folk were friendly and wanted me to return with family - apart from one idiot I encountered at Gulmarg's gondola / cable car (a local govt / tourism office employee - guess some things never change). The current trouble began after the killing of a 'popular' terrorist early last year - and unfortunately shows no sign of abating, thanks to the ineptness of the current political disposition.
- The politicians make merry : They live in palatial homes. With security like you can't believe (not less than a couple of hundred troops in the lane where most live). Are completely disconnected from the locals (who anyways believe the younger political generation don't have any locus standi - unlike their parents). Rajnath Singh made a trip while I was in Srinagar - his convoy was about 15 cars. Manmohan Singh visited Jammu - almost making me miss my flight, as his convoy was 23 cars. All of this funded by you, me and the other 1.5% who pay taxes
- It's clear who the army blame : Off the record chats (prior to this trip) with senior army folks, all of whom have served in Kashmir, have studied the history of the region, point the finger of blame for the current mess at the man who's great-grandson was recently extolling the virtues of dynasties in speeches made in foreign lands. Jawaharlal Nehru. Apparently, the rather idiotic scion also tried to take credit for solving the Kashmir mess over the past 9 years - a state of affairs (as per the army officers) that has steadily deteriorated over the last 50 years, thanks to Mr Nehru (don't want to get into the details).