A Journey Through Priorat Wine Region: Where Art Flows Through a Glass

During our visit to Spain, we took a detour to explore the famed Priorat wine region, a land of rugged beauty and viticultural treasures. As we approached, the landscape transformed dramatically. Gone were the gentle coastal plains; in their place rose a tapestry of steep, slate-covered hills, their terraced slopes etched into the earth like ancient hieroglyphs.

This hidden gem is not far from Tarragona, the sun-drenched former Roman capital on the Mediterranean coast. The air here is different—drier, more aromatic, filled with wild herbs and sun-baked earth. It's believed that the Romans carved many of the surviving terraces into these unforgiving slopes?over two millennia ago.

The transformation of Priorat into one of the world's great wine-producing regions in the early 80s is a story written in the very soil. This story began thanks to René Barbier, who started the transformational movement. Villages, their terracotta roofs a warm contrast to the green and grey landscape, dot the various hills along the valley. The Montsant mountain range's imposing silhouette looms, creating a unique microclimate. Cool breezes from the Mediterranean snake up the valleys, caressing the vines and slowing grape maturation, a dance of nature that imbues the wines' distinctive character.

After a journey that tested our patience and resolve, we arrived in Gratallops, our nerves frayed but our spirits unbroken. The village appeared like a mirage, its stone buildings seemingly growing out of the hillside rock itself.

Christina, the owner of our small hotel Cal Llop Priorat, greeted us with a knowing smile that spoke of countless weary travelers she had welcomed. The cool interior of the hotel offered instant relief from the Catalan sun. With barely time to catch our breath, we found ourselves navigating the narrow, winding streets of Gratallops, Christina's hand-drawn map, our guide to "the big tree and two wolves."

Gratallops is a picturesque village atop a hill overlooking the Montsant River valley. The heart of the Priorat wine region, as part of the 12 production zones, this small settlement has become a beacon for wine enthusiasts as over 30 wineries call this home. Its narrow streets, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, wind between traditional stone houses that seem to whisper tales of vintages past. From every vantage point, the eye is drawn to the stunning panorama of surrounding vineyards, their neat rows stretching towards the sun, broken only by the occasional olive grove.

As we waited by the ancient tree that served as our rendezvous point, our guide from Celler Devinssi, Jordi, appeared in a rugged SUV. His friendly face broke into a warm smile as he welcomed us to his beloved Gratallops.

Bouncing along dirt roads clinging precariously to the hillsides, we ascended into the Priorat's wine country. The higher we climbed, the more dramatic the views became. Terraced vineyards, their lines etched into the hillsides like contours on a map, stretched as far as the eye could see. The famed llicorella soil, a crumbed slate that fractures easily, crunched beneath our feet as we finally disembarked at a small plateau. This porous soil was one of the secret ingredients.

Here, perched on the edge of a hillside that fell away into a grand valley of hand-tended vines, we began introducing the high-spirited (14% to 15.5% alcohol level) wines of Priorat. As Jordi poured the first wine of Celler Devinssi’s Mas de les Valls 2022 (50% Grenache Negra, 43% Carignan, and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon), the ruby liquid caught the sun's light, promising to unlock the secrets of this ancient, magical terroir.

Gratallops seemed to whisper its ancient origins, derived from the Latin "Gratula," meaning "to rejoice," as we celebrated our first of many glasses of Priorat wines. The movement led by René Barbier established the DOQ Priorat designation, one of only two regions (the famous Roja) in Spain to hold this prestigious classification, indicating high-quality wine production. A mineral aftertaste with a hint of?Mediterranean spice is characterized as?unique to the Priorat terroir.

The Il-Lia 2020 followed, its fruit-forward notes dancing on our tongues. Jordi gestured to the surrounding hillsides as we savored this blend (50% Grenache Negra, 30% Carignan, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah), pointing out the different varietals. His brow furrowed as he spoke of the ongoing drought, the vines' struggle etched in the lines of his face.

The Rocapoll 2021, born from century-old Carignan vines, was a fitting finale. Each sip of this limited (600 bottles) "vi de la vila" was a journey through time, its complex flavors unfolding with rich dark fruit, mineral, spicy, soft leather, and tobacco notes.

Our exploration of Priorat's liquid treasures continued at the Buil & Giné winery and Amics restaurant. Here, Chef Marc Pi's culinary artistry provided a four-course dinner of “Piparra” spicy-sweet peppers, figs, and smoked eel, Tomato salad with tuna belly confit, beef fillet with a zucchini flower stuffed with mushrooms, tapenade, and tomato, finished with a fruit dessert covered in a lemon verbena foam. The Joan Gine 2018 (Grenache, Carignan, and Cabernet Sauvignon) accompanied this masterpiece with its symphony of dark fruit and subtle spices.

As night fell over Gratallops, we found ourselves at Slate tapas bar, glasses of Font de la Figuera in hand to accompany the delicious assortment of farmer patés and cheeses. We were already anticipating the adventures that awaited us tomorrow.

As dawn broke on our second day in Priorat, the village of Gratallops slowly stirred to life. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong coffee wafted through the narrow streets, mingling with the ever-present scent of sun-warmed stone. After a hearty breakfast of local cured meats, cheeses, and ripe fruit, we set out for Clos de l'Obac, one of the pioneering wineries that had sparked Priorat's renaissance.

Rodrigo, our host at Clos de l'Obac, welcomed us to their casa. As we stepped through hidden doors into the winery's inner sanctum, it felt as if we were being initiated into a secret society of wine lovers. The steel blending chambers gleamed in the soft light while the cellar's oak barrels stood like silent sentinels, guarding their precious contents.

The winery's history unfolded before us as Rodrigo spoke of Carles Pastrana and Mariona Jarque, the visionaries who had seen the potential in these hills in the 1980s. Mariona's artistic touch was evident throughout the winery, her creative spirit seeming to infuse every corner.

The first vintage of Clos de l’Obac was in 1989, which started a strict tradition of composing the same percentage blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, and Carignan over the last 30-plus years. They aspire to produce red wines lasting 45 years, so begin this journey. They age the wine in American oak for up to 18 months, bottle it, and let it rest for ten years before they release it. We saw ten years of bottles lying in cages from the floor to the ceiling, just over?half a million bottles waiting to be released.

In the master cellar hidden behind a?wall, we stood in awe, surrounded by every vintage, each bottle a testament to Clos de l’Obac’s commitment to longevity. The glass-encased tasting room, more time chamber than room, looked like it could transport you through three decades of winemaking excellence.

The first wine we sampled was Kyrie 2023, aptly named after the Greek word for "Lord." This intriguing blend comprises 35% white Grenache, 30% Macabeu, 30% Xarel-Lo, and 5% Alexandra Moscat. It boasts a robust structure reminiscent of a bold red, with subtle fruit notes, mineral complexity, and a crisp finish. With our palates primed, we eagerly anticipated the reds.

We began with Miserere 2014, a sophisticated blend of 27% Grenache, 27% of Priorat's oldest Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Tempranillo, 10% Merlot, and 10% Carignan. Its aroma invites you into a world of rich dark fruit, accented by hints of balsamic, mineral, smoky, and leather notes, offering an elegant tasting experience.

The journey continued with their flagship wine, Clos de L’Obac 2014, crafted from a time-honored blend of 35% Grenache, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Shiraz, 10% Merlot, and 10% Carignan. This bold and vibrant wine embodies the distinct character of Priorat, striking a perfect balance between strength and finesse.

We concluded this memorable tasting with the sweet red Dolc de l’Obac 2011 blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. It was a delicious finale of an enchanting morning. As the Pastrana family beautifully puts it, wine is the only way to drink art.

Unsurprisingly, in 1993, the World Wine Guide named Clos de L’Obac one of the 150 best wines in the world.

Our culinary journey continued at Restaurant Celler de Gratallops, where traditional flavors were reimagined with modern flair. The S de Saó from Saó del Coster (55% Grenache and 45% Carignan) proved a worthy companion to the bold local cuisine, its youthful vibrancy cutting through the rich flavors.

As the sun set, casting a red and orange hue over the horizon, we ventured into the darkness to Le Petit Llop for another evening of tapas and wine. It had been another wonderful day in Priorat.

As the sun rose on our final day in Priorat, we went to Clos Figueras, a charming winery in the village's lower part. Once a humble chicken farm, it has been transformed into a winery, restaurant, and bed and breakfast. We were warmly welcomed by Lily, an eager apprentice from the Cava Penedès region near Barcelona, who greeted us with a bright smile and charmingly broken English. Her enthusiasm was infectious as we quickly transitioned from small talk to sampling their three red wines: Serras del Priorat, Font de la Figuera, and their signature Clos Figueres.

Renowned European wine merchant Christopher Cannan and partner Anne-Joséphine have owned Clos Figueras since October 1997, when he expanded it into an impressive 18-hectare estate. Today, the estate produces approximately 30,000 bottles annually.

We began our tasting with the youthful and vibrant Serras del Priorat 2022, a blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is fruit-forward and ideal for early enjoyment, yet it still embodies the classic characteristics of Priorat. It offers a fresh and expansive palate, a soft finish, and a mineral aftertaste, with fruity notes complemented by Mediterranean spices.

Next, we sampled Font de la Figuera 2021, composed of 60% Garnacha, 25% Carignan, 10% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is rich with dark cherry and blackberry flavors, accented by a hint of oak. It is a quintessential Priorat wine, full of depth, character, and a smooth, rich finish.

We concluded with Clos Figueres 2020, a blend of Grenache and Carignan from over 80-year-old vines. This wine is a crescendo of power, structure, and elegance, with a distinguished nose and a voluminous presence on the palate.

After the tasting, we descended into the cellar, where the wines age in oak barrels that once served as the town's original water storage.

As our Priorat adventure ended, we found ourselves changed. We had not merely tasted wines?but imbibed history, tradition, and innovation. The landscape's rugged beauty, the people's warmth, and the wines' depth had left an indelible mark on our souls.

As we rewound our way towards the coast, the taste of Priorat lingered on our palates—a complex blend of fruit, minerals, and centuries of tradition. We knew that while our journey was ending, our love affair with Priorat had only just begun.

P.S. I want to thank my dear friend Conchita Fuchs for introducing me to the fabulous wines of the #DOQPriorat

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