Jain Food on the Go Campaign - Warwan Valley Trek Experience
Shashank Shah
Climbing Mountains on Jain Diet, Founder of Mountaineering Guidance & Freezed Frames, Spiritually Inclined, Love Playing All Sports, Traveler, Avid Reader
Hello Friends,
In this article, I am excited to recount my experience of trekking through Warwan Valley, which I completed in the first week of August-2024. This journey not only allowed me to immerse myself in the breathtaking landscapes but also served as a platform to promote the "Jain Food on the Go Campaign." This trek stands as a significant milestone, building upon the solid foundation of my previous adventures from 2016 to 2023.
I will delve into the details of the trek itself, while also sharing my personal reflections & insights gained along the way, hoping to inspire you or perhaps provide the answers you’ve been seeking, encouraging you to consider making such experiences a meaningful part of your life.
THE Warwan Valley Trek
Capturing the essence of this trek is a formidable challenge, as it encompasses both breathtaking beauty and formidable obstacles. Yet, I can confidently say that it stands out as one of the most stunning and demanding journeys I have ever undertaken. This trek offers a complete experience, transitioning from gentle paths to steep ascents, featuring everything from expansive grasslands to rugged moraines, and from majestic glaciers to meandering rivers. The weather varied dramatically, with some days filled with gentle breezes and clouds, while others exposed us to relentless sun. Wildlife added to the charm, with horses peacefully grazing and marmots playfully calling out to passersby. The terrain ranged from wide-open spaces to precarious ledges, and the night sky revealed a dazzling display of stars, including the Milky Way. We navigated icy river crossings and skipped over smaller streams, all while listening to the soothing sounds of rushing water and the occasional crack of thunder. Surrounded by towering peaks, we often found ourselves anxiously anticipating the sight of our next campsite, only to feel immense relief upon arrival. The trek fostered deep connections, as we shared meaningful conversations and laughed at the silliest jokes, transforming a simple WhatsApp group into a network of lifelong friendships. The experiences were endless, each moment adding to the rich tapestry of this unforgettable adventure.
Ultimately, this trek presents a wealth of experiences that any genuine adventurer would crave. It's clear why this journey is considered one of the most challenging treks of India; conquering it not only strengthens your resolve but also fosters a profound sense of accomplishment. This achievement transcends mere ego or pride, as it allows you to tap into new depths of your inner potential, pushing past the familiar confines of your comfort zone.
Trek Itinerary
The Warwan Valley Trek serves as a remarkable journey that connects the Ladakh Region with the Jammu & Kashmir Region. It kicks off in the quaint hamlet of Panikhar, nestled in the Suru Valley of Ladakh, and culminates in the picturesque village of Sukhnai, located in the Warwan Valley of the Kishtwar Region in Jammu & Kashmir, traversing the Lomvilad Pass along the way.
According to our itinerary, we commenced our adventure in Srinagar, making our way to Panikhar, where the trek began. After trekking to the last campsite at Sukhnai, we returned to Srinagar, completing the entire journey over nine days, with six of those dedicated to the exhilarating trek and the remaining days reserved for travel by road.
This is how our trek itinerary was planned:
From Day 2 to Day 7, we embarked on the true trekking adventure, navigating the challenging terrain of Ladakh. We set up camp a few kilometers shy of the majestic Kalapari Glacier, tackled the Highest Point of our journey at Lomvilad Pass, soaring to an impressive 14,495 feet. As we ventured into a new valley, we traversed another glacier and followed the river that flowed from it. Our trek led us through the stunning Warwan Valley, where the River Sheshnag met our path, ultimately guiding us to Sukhnai, the last village accessible by road in this enchanting valley.
What Each Day of the Trek Looked Like
Among all the treks I've experienced over the years, this one stands out as particularly unique due to the diverse landscapes we explored over the course of six days. What truly sets this trek apart is the consistency of the terrain we faced each day; once we encountered a specific type of landscape at the start, it would largely remain the same until we reached the next campsite. For instance, if we began our day navigating through moraines, we would continue to traverse that same rocky terrain for most of the day, with only a few brief moments where the landscape shifted before returning to the familiar ground.
Let's take a moment to reflect on the various terrains we encountered throughout each day of our journey:
Panikhar - Denora (14 km):
Our adventure commenced in the quaint village of Panikhar, where we embarked on a journey into the valley, following the winding river that meandered through the area. The early stages of our trek were pleasantly straightforward, featuring gentle ascents along well-defined paths. However, the landscape soon transformed dramatically, presenting us with challenging moraines & loose rocks, characterized by steep climbs & descents that tested our endurance. This rugged terrain persisted until we finally arrived at expansive grasslands, where the biting wind whipped around us with ferocity. Although the campsite was nearby, we were cautious of the numerous stream crossings; and to circumvent this, we opted for a precarious route along a narrow ledge that ultimately led us to the campsite, requiring a steep descent. Nestled at the confluence of three valleys, our campsite was surrounded by towering mountains of diverse landscapes, with a river flowing serenely beside us, enhancing the beauty of our remote haven.
Denora - Kalapari (03 km):
The day unfolded with a sense of ease, covering a distance of only 3 to 4 kilometers, yet it was not without its own set of challenges. Right at the start of the trek, we faced our first hurdle: crossing a river. The water was icy cold, and its swift current made the task even more daunting. As soon as our feet touched the frigid water, a numbing sensation crept in, making it feel as if our legs had vanished below the knees. The riverbanks were quite far apart, and after navigating the first stretch, we encountered a shorter second section that added an extra thrill to our adventure. Following this, the trail led us on a steep ascent before gradually descending toward our campsite. The breathtaking scenery made every effort worthwhile, with a magnificent waterfall cascading on the opposite side, a river meandering close by, and the imposing Kalapari Glacier and towering mountains looming ahead, marking the path for our trek the following day.
Kalapari - Kainthal (~26 km) [Toughest & Longest Day of the Trek]:
What a day it has been! I find myself at a loss for words to describe this trek, which has undoubtedly proven to be one of the most arduous experiences I've faced between two campsites throughout my trekking experiences. Our day began at the crack of dawn, with an early wake-up call at 03am, allowing us just enough time for a quick breakfast and to pack our lunches before setting off at 04am. The first 20 to 30 minutes offered a gentle walk along a flat path, but soon the real challenge emerged - MORAINES. The entire day unfolded as a relentless series of MORAINES, interspersed with a glacier & a brief stream crossing, but mostly it was a test of endurance as we trudged through the seemingly endless terrain, until finally, we reached our campsite, exhausted yet exhilarated.
This day unfolded like a breathtaking tapestry of diverse landscapes, each one a testament to the awe-inspiring artistry of nature. Within the first 45 minutes of our trek, we were greeted by the majestic Kalapari Glacial Lake, then we traversed a vast stretch of solid glacial ice, before tackling the steep, rugged moraines that challenged our resolve. Our journey culminated at the pinnacle of the trek, the Lomvilad Pass, soaring at an impressive altitude of 14,495 feet. After a steep descent over the moraines, we paused briefly to refuel with a quick snack, only to face another daunting drop that led us to the Bracken Glacier. Here, we trekked for nearly 4 kilometers, navigating the icy expanse before once again descending down the moraines, which would guide us to our next campsite.
The final leg of the moraine, stretching from the glacier's edge to the stream crossing, proved to be a daunting ordeal, fraught with peril and demanding every ounce of our agility. We found ourselves leaping from one stone to another, navigating boulders with precision, and skillfully hopping over small streams, each step presenting a new challenge that tested our resolve. Despite the enticing sight of meadows & grasslands just beyond the moraine, the path seemed endless, with time slipping away as day faded into evening, pushing our mental & physical limits to the brink. At last, as the clock struck 04:45 PM, we triumphantly crossed the river, exhaling a collective sigh of relief at the end of the moraines. Yet, our journey was far from over; the next hurdle lay in locating our campsite, as ours was an entirely new team of cooks & porters who would support us in this part of the valley, and communication via satellite phones or walkie-talkies was strictly prohibited. This quest continued for nearly an hour, until we finally arrived at our campsite at 06pm.
As the sun began to set on this remarkable day, I can't help but reflect on the incredible journey we shared, one that pushed us to our physical & mental limits, testing our endurance, stamina, & willpower. Despite the challenges we faced, the day never felt overwhelmingly exhausting, thanks to the vibrant team spirit that bound us together. We supported one another through the rugged terrain of moraines & boulders, where not everyone was familiar with the demanding landscape. Each of us carried our own rucksacks, weighing between 10 - 14 kilograms, yet we found strength in unity, lending a hand to navigate steep descents, cross rushing streams, and find stable footing on rocky paths. We shared not only our food & water but also our motivation, encouraging each other to push through moments of fatigue. Upon reaching our campsite, a few of us eagerly checked our Fitness Tracking Apps, revealing that we had covered an impressive distance of nearly 26 kilometers, a testament to our collective effort & resilience. We had the most peaceful sleep that night!
Kainthal - Humpet (~18 km):
Today unfolded as one of the most straightforward and enjoyable days of our journey, with an 18-kilometer route that gently descended through vibrant green meadows, featuring a smooth terrain and numerous stream crossings. We kicked off the day with a fun warm-up session, setting the tone for our adventure as we meandered along, flanked by soothing waterfalls and the streams they birthed, which flowed into the river originating from the majestic Bracken Glacier. Midway through our trek, we paused for an extended break, where we gathered to share stories from the previous day's trek, capturing our thoughts & feelings; and then poured our hearts out on postcards destined for our loved ones, which I trust have now found their way home. As we continued, the landscape shifted from expansive fields to a narrow ledge hugging the riverbank, where a single misstep could send one tumbling into the rushing waters below.
Upon reaching our campsite, we encountered a scene reminiscent of the Denora campsite, where three valleys converged, and the winds howled above us. This picturesque location was enhanced by the nearby river and the imposing, rugged mountains that encircled us, all beneath a vast, clear sky. Here, we were fortunate enough to capture breathtaking images of star trails & the Milky Way, a celestial display adorned with billions of twinkling stars. The evening also brought the joy of camaraderie as we engaged in games with another group that had arrived at Humpet that day, embarking on their own reverse trek through the Warwan Valley.
Humpet - Sukhnai (~20 km):
The trek officially marked its final day, yet it was only the penultimate stop on our itinerary, and it turned out to be quite an extensive journey. We navigated narrow ledges with steep descents, followed by a lengthy walk along moraine-like terrain, all while the river rushed below us. Our adventure commenced with a 30-minute downpour, transforming the landscape from clear skies to a mystical fog enveloping the trees, enhancing the day's atmosphere. Initially, we faced a brief ascent, but soon we were met with long, steep drops until we reached a flat expanse where the river from the Bracken Glacier & Sheshnag River converged, their waters surging with newfound vigour. This confluence marked the true beginning of the Warwan Valley, and from that moment, our trek was immersed in its beauty.
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At the outset, the valley was a narrow passage flanked by towering mountains, with the path often hidden from view, compelling us to forge ahead into the unknown. Midway through our journey, we crossed a wooden bridge, transitioning to the opposite side of the route, and continued onward as the valley gradually widened, signaling our approach to the campsite. The three of us, out of a group of six, quickened our pace, eventually breaking into a run along the trail until we finally caught sight of our destination, arriving at the camp by 4 PM.
What an exhilarating sense of achievement washed over us as we reflected on the arduous path we had traversed! We reveled in our shared experiences, emotions bubbling to the surface as our fellow trekkers began to arrive at the camp. With open arms and jubilant cheers, we greeted them, celebrating their successful completion of the trek. The atmosphere was charged with nostalgia as we exchanged stories and relived the memories of our journey, the night unfolding with laughter and camaraderie as we embraced the bonds forged through our shared adventure.
Rest Day at Sukhnai:
The buffer day unfolded as a sanctuary for rest and muscle recovery, but it blossomed into a profound opportunity for connection among us. We delved into deep conversations, sharing insights and experiences on topics we were passionate about, creating a tapestry of knowledge and camaraderie. The campsite's ambiance enveloped us, with a prominent hillock rising majestically nearby, while the village of Sukhnai nestled just behind it. As evening approached, we ventured to explore the hillock and the village, immersing ourselves in an experience that felt worlds apart from the hustle and bustle of city life.
For me, this day felt like a dream realized, as I had longed to wander through a Kashmiri village, to witness its people and culture up close. Sitting by the riverbank, we reveled in the soothing sounds of flowing water, a moment of pure bliss. On our way back to the campsite, we stumbled upon a playground where village children were joyfully engaged in games, their laughter echoing in the air. We paused to soak in their innocent delight, a stark contrast to the fast-paced life we often lead, and it was a sight that warmed our hearts.
The night became a cherished memory, as our cook and support staff, who were locals from Kashmir, joined us in our dining tent. They shared enchanting folk tales & traditional songs, and we found ourselves singing along, united in the magic of the moment. This celebration marked the perfect conclusion to our trek, a beautiful blend of culture, connection, and the simple joys of life that we often overlook.
The night unfolded into a terrifying spectacle that kept us on edge, robbing us of sleep as the weather took a wild turn. Suddenly, we were jolted awake by the loud roars of thunder, accompanied by frightening flashes of lightning that illuminated the sky and our tents, only to be swallowed again by an oppressive darkness. This relentless blaring persisted until the early hours of the morning, leaving us exhausted & restless. However, as dawn broke and we emerged from our tents, we were greeted by a breathtaking transformation; the landscape was shrouded in thick, ethereal fog, with fluffy clouds drifting lazily above, creating a scene that felt almost otherworldly.
Returning back to Srinagar, and then Home:
After soaking in the breathtaking morning scenery, we set off towards the nearest road head by Sukhnai village, eager to board our vehicle for the journey to Srinagar via the stunning Margan Top, which links the Warwan Valley to Kashmir. Our adventure included a night’s stay at Mati Gawran, and I must say, as we wound our way through each village on our ascent to Margan Top, the architecture was so striking that it compelled us to pause and fully absorb the enchanting beauty surrounding us. The landscape was unlike anything I had ever encountered, even in films or documentaries, prompting a deep reflection on the vast, untouched natural wonders still waiting to be discovered in India. Our night at Mati Gawran was spent in a traditional Kashmiri home, marking yet another unforgettable experience off my bucket list. The following morning, we set out for Srinagar, and upon arrival at our drop-off point, we were greeted by the support staff who coordinated our treks. We exchanged stories about our adventures and received trek t-shirts emblazoned with "Completed Warwan Valley." The five of us friends settled into a dormitory, and the rest of the day was filled with laughter as we played board games and explored the vibrant streets of Srinagar under the night sky.
The following day marked what felt like our final adventure together, as our flights home were scheduled for the evening. However, we seized the opportunity to discover some nearby attractions in the morning. Unfortunately, news of terrorist threats and increased security measures loomed over us, resulting in many tourist sites being off-limits due to permit restrictions. Yet, Yousmarg remained accessible, and without hesitation, we embarked on our journey there. The breathtaking beauty of this location was truly unparalleled, featuring expansive meadows and a variety of scenic spots to explore. Time constraints led us to focus on the riverside area, where our path wound through towering pine and coniferous trees, adding a dramatic flair to our adventure. As we made our way back to the airport, we felt a deep sense of satisfaction, having experienced a remarkable journey in a part of India that has long been a dream destination for many.
Why did I Share all of these Experiences in Detail?
You might be curious about why I'm detailing every single aspect of my trek and how this information could possibly benefit you. Allow me to explain.
My intention is to immerse you in my experience; I want you to feel as though you are right there beside me throughout this journey. By sharing my thoughts and reflections during the trek, I hope to convey the emotions I encountered and illustrate how these moments will soon influence the mission I am pursuing.
Regardless of your level of experience in mountain climbing or the countless treks you've completed, there will always be moments when your mind tries to persuade you to abandon your journey, presenting seemingly valid reasons that can feel overwhelmingly convincing. In those instances, it's crucial to assess the reality of your physical & mental limits against the deceptive thoughts that arise, allowing you to acknowledge them without letting them dictate your actions. Instead, you can refocus on the purpose that motivated you to embark on the trek in the first place, using that driving force to push through and complete the challenge rather than leaving it unfinished. Personally, I never entertained thoughts of quitting or regretted my choice of trek; however, there were moments of anxiety when the end of the day's journey or the location of the next campsite was unclear, leading to a natural sense of impatience creeping in.
I found myself grappling with moments of impatience & anxiety, largely due to my poor choice of rucksack. This particular bag, intended for high-altitude trekking, unfortunately fell short in its fundamental design for weight distribution & handling, leading to significant discomfort in my spine. The rucksack featured a strap at the back meant to adjust its height according to my torso length, ensuring that the waist strap fit snugly around my waist and the shoulder straps rested comfortably on my shoulders. While I had adjusted it correctly for my height, the absence of an internal frame meant that the rucksack sagged, causing the adjustment strap to dig into my spine. This relentless pressure intensified the pain in my neck, diverting my attention away from the beauty of nature around me and instead fixating it on my discomfort.
On the day we crossed the pass, I was filled with excitement, determination, and the stamina to trek all day long. However, the nagging pain in my spine significantly slowed me down, which in turn affected the pace of the entire group. Thankfully, my fellow trekkers & guides were incredibly supportive, offering constant encouragement as I made my way to the summit. Realizing I needed to adjust how I carried my rucksack to avoid holding everyone back, I devised a simple solution by adding some padding to the strap. This small modification prevented the strap from digging into my spine, allowing me to forget about the rucksack's design flaws. Remarkably, this change worked wonders, not just for me but for the whole group! As the pain subsided, my spirits soared, and I found myself energized, moving at a pace that far exceeded my earlier struggles.
This clever trick proved to be incredibly effective throughout our trek, allowing me to reach a peak in my physical performance. I found myself trekking at a pace that mirrored my usual brisk walking back home, which was quite surprising given the high altitude and the added weight of my rucksack. I was genuinely astonished to maintain my normal speed under such challenging conditions. As we continued our journey, I kept a close eye on both my physical pace & my emotional state, and I was pleased to find them in perfect harmony. This positive alignment not only uplifted my spirits but also brought me back to my playful self, enabling me to fully immerse myself in the breathtaking experience of the trek.
On the final day of our adventure, I found myself grappling with frustration & irritation due to the challenging terrain, the slow pace of our group, and the pricking pain of the rucksack again, during the trek's first half. However, I made a conscious choice to shift my mindset and embrace a more joyful perspective. I took off with two of my fellow trekkers during the last stretch, and we reached our destination by 4 PM, completing the trek in good health & safety. At that moment, I felt an overwhelming surge of happiness and enthusiasm, reaffirming my belief that every drop of sweat shed during the journey multiplies into a rewarding experience upon arrival. This belief became a vivid reality as we successfully completed THE Warwan Valley Trek, a journey that felt like a dream come true for all of us in the group.
One of the most significant sources of my happiness & sense of accomplishment stemmed from the fact that I completed the entire trek while adhering to a Jain Food Diet. This was a dream I had nurtured since July 2023, and witnessing it come to fruition felt surreal. I was amazed at how I managed to tackle such a challenging trek with such limited food options. It dawned on me that I was on a meaningful journey, and to embody that purpose, I needed to set an example by pursuing my aspirations & inspiring others along the way. I am deeply grateful to the entire team, including the cooking staff, support personnel, trek guides, and coordinators, who meticulously catered to my dietary needs, providing me with delicious & satisfying meals every day. Ultimately, I set my mission in motion by completing this trek in excellent health, brimming with energy & enthusiasm, and I uncovered a renewed sense of purpose for the future adventures that await me.
I have never opened up about my inner experiences before, but I feel compelled to share them with you all now. Throughout the entire trek & the trip, I remained dedicated to my spiritual practices, ensuring that they harmonized with the group's schedule & energy. During the trek, I experienced an unprecedented level of present-moment awareness; listening to mantra chants felt like a serene experience, almost as if time slowed down. Before each meal or sip of any liquid, I took a moment to mentally recite my gratitude prayer, making sure to express my thanks before indulging, no matter how many times I did so throughout the day. This personal ritual has allowed me to savour moments of gratitude & heightened awareness, keeping me introspective and helping me navigate my thoughts & emotions. Whenever I sensed irritation or frustration creeping in, I was able to shift my mindset towards positivity. All of this has been made possible through the Grace & Blessings of my Living Enlightened Spiritual Master.
What Next?!
This trek, much like the previous article where I detailed all the journeys I undertook while adhering to a Jain food diet, signifies the dawn of a transformative mission aimed at reshaping the tourism landscape for those who cherish Jain cuisine and for those eager to explore it.
Upon completing the trek, I was overwhelmed by a profound sense of purpose that surged through me, compelling me to seek out more adventures and to continually challenge my limits & unlock my true potential. Once I returned home, I immediately reignited my passion for sports every weekend and dove back into my workout & training regimen with renewed vigour. My determination to pursue my dreams has intensified, and while I can't predict how well I will meet the ambitious goals I've set for myself, I am resolute in my commitment to move forward without hesitation. Even if I encounter setbacks in my future endeavours, I am confident that I have established a strong foundation that will inspire countless others.
To raise awareness about this mission and ensure it reaches a wide audience quickly, I am reaching out to all of you reading this article. I would greatly appreciate your assistance in connecting me with individuals who are passionate about cooking, work in major media outlets, are involved in the travel / tourism industry, run a podcast channel or have an adventurous spirit. These connections can help amplify the message of this mission, which is straightforward:
"Jain food should be readily accessible throughout the country, adhering to its principles, so that those who prefer Jain cuisine can enjoy it without any concerns about non-Jain ingredients."
An interesting experience we had upon returning to Srinagar after our trek highlights this need perfectly. We visited a Pure Veg restaurant for dinner, and to our delight, the menu featured symbols indicating which dishes could be prepared Jain-style. Some pages were even dedicated solely to Jain cuisine. My friends were incredibly supportive of my dietary choices, promising to join me in trying the Jain dishes I ordered. They were pleasantly surprised by the flavours & quality of the food, realizing that Jain dishes can be just as delicious without ingredients like onion, garlic, etc.
I don’t wish to impose my dietary preferences on anyone, but I aim to foster an environment where those who prefer Jain food can thrive. It’s also worth noting that Jain cuisine is not exclusive; it can be enjoyed by everyone, regardless of their usual dietary habits, which is truly wonderful news!
As I wrap up this chapter of my journey, I am excited to share that it is only the beginning, and I will keep you all updated with my travel & adventure stories in the future, aiming to inspire as many lives as I can along the way.
In a delightful twist, a friend of mine expressed a desire to go on a winter trek this year, but his parents were hesitant about the idea. He asked me to speak with them to help ease their concerns, and I readily agreed. However, when his parents reached out to me, I was (un)fortunately tied up with other commitments and asked them to call back later. In the meantime, my friend showcased my Instagram profile to his parents, which instantly changed their minds, and they gave him the green light to sign up for the trek without needing my input after all. While I’m not quite sure what to make of this experience, one thing is clear: my mission is indeed making a positive impact!
Thank you all for taking the time to read this article. I truly appreciate your attention to my experiences, and it means the world to me!